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1/5th Bigfoot id help


gary:)

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If you put all the direct clones of the FG based cars in a row, and ranked them 1-10 ....1 being poor and 10 being FG quality....you would find the Shen Qi at the low end of the scale. The Smartech close is slightly better, but was ruined by poor engine choice and some poor quality plastics. I ran a Smartech clone for a bit, and used mildly, they are fine. Use them hard, and they will break. I ended up replacing a lot of parts with proper FG gear.

 

Pretty much the same issue with the ShenQi.

 

If you are just running around on flat grass, and being gentle on it...it will be a bit of fun. Crash it, and things are not so rosy. Suspension arms, bulkheads etc. will snap. The diffs are not as well made and will need careful attention ( and grease! ). Also watch the wheels....they are not strong and the squares strip out. FG ones have a metal support ring to prevent this, as well as being much stronger plastic. Also keep a close eye on the driveline bearings. The stockers are rubbish. Lose a bearing on teh clutch, and you snap the clutchbell. I also had a layshaft bearing fail, and that totalled the driveline gears...was messy!

 

It is basically a clone of the FG...but not all FG parts will fit. The gear spacing on the gear carrier is not the same, so the drivetrain parts can only be swapped if you change ALL of them. Large engine mount, gear carrier, spur and pinion.

 

I wouldn;t bother though, as with the price of used Marders these days, it's not worth spending the money to turn a low-end clone into an FG.

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Thanks i wont be big time bashing with it. Will be good for starter. Tho i have found a problem already. When spinning the back wheels by hand they it will spin free then tight? Any ideas what causeing this? I checked my diff thort it looked pretty good and was loads of grease in it.

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If you have tight spots on the rear wheels, there are a few palces to look.

 

1) Make sure the spur gear isn't turning. If you are checking the diff internals, you want the rest of the drivetrain immobile.

2) Check the wheel/diff bearings. If one is on the way out, that can cause tight spots.

3) Check the diff outdrives and axles for wear. The diff outdrives on my Smartech wore faster than FG ones. I ended up fitting rubber boots over them and packing them with grease once I had dressed the notches a little.

 

Trouble with diff gears could be poor manufacture. If the gears are not accurately machined, or are simply 'stamped out' then they may not be completely true. It helps to check how regular the tight spot is...if it's exactly one rotation of the wheel, for example.

 

As far as shell fit goes, I can't remember if this has the 'triangular' chassis or if the sides are more parallel. If it's the former, a Marder shell will fit fine. If not...then you would be better off with a Carson attack shell or similar. Largescale shells are pretty pricey as a rule, and good condition Marder shells are like rocking horse manure....

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Thanks for the replys Posted Image defo wont fit. Ill look into the carson one. I just like the buggy type look. Looking into some better wheel/tyres too. Ill test for the tight and lose problem later. I still think as a starter this will do the job. Save and sell all my nitro cars and get a proper one.

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This should fit...

 

http://rc-car-online.de/shop/de/products/y0705-y0705-smartech-uno-komplett-lackierte-karosserie-1-st-.html

 

or you could try and buy the spare shell from this ad:

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/185248-hpi-savage-46-big-block-fg-marder-selling-up/?hl=marder

 

The blue/yellow shell is not a MArder one...it's from a RiverHobby MArder clone, and would fit yours I reckon.

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Ran cable front discs on a Monster Beetle...and I wasn't impressed. Spent ages trying to get a balanced setting on the cables, becuase if it's not pulling equally, you geet rubbish braking. The cables stretch and are affected by temperature too....so you are always adjusting the damn things! Hydros are better...but pricey! That kind of defeats the object of buying a cheap car. Better off improving the rear brake on the stock setup tbh. Look for the FG 'Tuning Brake' setup. Can;t guarantee it will fit, but it should. That plus a decent servo and making sure the brake/throttle rod linkage isn;t rubbing too much on the fuel tank/gear carrier. If there is a spring at the back, replace with a bit of fuel tube. 

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Was a no go on that shell. That website isnt english :(. I was looking at hydros and if i do get a marder i would swap it over. Im really not sure what to do

Im going try find out the problem with the wheels going tight today.

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nitroholic, I already want a marder. I hardly run this one but decided I don't wana waste money on this. but I am stuck on the fg marder and the fg beetle. also any tips on looking to tell how its not a clone marder? thanks again for your help

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There are a few easy to spot guidelines between clones and 'proper' ones. I'll put up a proper post with pics etc. which should help later on.

 

For now...the key areas are the front servo tray. Clone ones often have a built in box for the RX battery...FG never did. The fuel tanks are different...the clone ones have a pair of breather pipes and an unvented cap. The gear ratios on the spur/pinion are different as the spacing on the gear carrier is not the same. This also means the large engine mount os different to match. Finally..the diff outdrives are different, The splined shafts that go into the diffinternal gears are different diameter. There is also a shape difference on the chassis for some ( but not all ) clones.

 

Some of this is hard to spot, and it's not uncommon to find cars that are part clone, part genuine .....

 

p.s. That website is German....click theunion jack flag at the top and it's all in English. Postage from there is quick ( via DHL ) and no customs issues as it's an EU country. They have been around for years and are very well respected and reliable. I have used them many times

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Thanks I released about that website when I went on it with my laptop haha. if you can update on the spotting a clone I would be great full. im defo close to buying a fg marder. is there any think you would input me before buying one? or advice on some think different? some think 4x4?

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Thanks I released about that website when I went on it with my laptop haha. if you can update on the spotting a clone I would be great full. im defo close to buying a fg marder. is there any think you would input me before buying one? or advice on some think different? some think 4x4?

 

Nah go 2wd its great fun, i recently purchesed a marder second hand with a cy engine and samba pipe and its a flying machine but it has clone baja wheels on it so i managed to destroy both of the rears, but if you but a marder id definetely recommend buying the hex converters to use hpi baja wheels :)

Edited by Ewan.Mackay
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That's basically the difference between all the older 2WD FG models. The Monster Beetle Pro and Monster Truck got different front suspension setup and double rear shocks ... but aside from minor gearing changes, they are all basically the same.

Cheers. And pics on spotting a clone. Or any more tips. I see alot are clones with marder bits. I hope i buy a real one

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