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Shumacher lc racing EMB-1


silone74

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7 minutes ago, c0sie said:

What is your mesh like?

It looks fine, I think. It is set by the bearings fitting into the slots in the gearbox housing. 

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It is actually in the diff,  some section that is a bit harder to turn. I have already disassembled and assembled and still there. I hope it will iron itself out after one run...

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It’s worth double checking the diff, where the two slots are (circled in the photo), I managed to move them out of position when dropping them in (they slot into one another), the diff still functioned, but was a bit rough.

7D147AE9-D6AE-4539-B683-7D130612EB3A.jpeg

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14 hours ago, Ag100 said:

It’s worth double checking the diff, where the two slots are (circled in the photo), I managed to move them out of position when dropping them in (they slot into one another), the diff still functioned, but was a bit rough.

7D147AE9-D6AE-4539-B683-7D130612EB3A.jpeg

I disassembled the differential  again and assembled it and the diff was fine. i really dont know why when you put it with the input gear in the gear you get that section of stifness.  I have put grease and assembled the gearbox regardless. It is a bit better but still if you turn slowly enough you can feel there is a bit of stiffness in one section.  I hope it irons itself out after the first run, I will test it and then see... 
Really annoying... 

Edited by jimbulsara
new info
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Ran this today, one 2s pack, short grass, mostly flat out. Checked motor temps, highest was 80c, but it cooled pretty quick (have put a heatsink on the Motor). Is this ok?, 18t pinion (hot racing hardened steel) with a 60t Spur (hot racing hardened steel)

 

Edited by Ag100
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Fair enough, it’s running really nicely now, want to get it on a track, but struggling to find anywhere.

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I’m not sure actually, I run the Quickrun 10bl60 with mine, hopefully someone else can advise, the kit I had came with a 4850, and that 30amp esc.

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15 minutes ago, Ag100 said:

I’m not sure actually, I run the Quickrun 10bl60 with mine, hopefully someone else can advise, the kit I had came with a 4850, and that 30amp esc.

Thanks.

How do you have yours setup? That is where do you put the esc/ receiver ? 

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55 minutes ago, jimbulsara said:

Thanks.

How do you have yours setup? That is where do you put the esc/ receiver ? 

Currently have the esc on the top deck, receiver in between motor and servo, capacitor on servo and switch on the top deck behind the esc. 
But with the standard body, I had the esc minus the fan squeezed in between the motor and servo, receiver on the servo and the capacitor and switch on the chassis in front of the receiver.

It is all very tight, but can be made to work.

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8 minutes ago, Ag100 said:

Currently have the esc on the top deck, receiver in between motor and servo, capacitor on servo and switch on the top deck behind the esc. 
But with the standard body, I had the esc minus the fan squeezed in between the motor and servo, receiver on the servo and the capacitor and switch on the chassis in front of the receiver.

It is all very tight, but can be made to work.

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Thanks.  Cool looking car, loads of carbon upgrades no? 
I am waiting for that quicrun 16bl30 (havent bought a soldering iron so I went with this one which has the connections that I need) and will get some pics once I install it. 

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11 minutes ago, jimbulsara said:

Thanks.  Cool looking car, loads of carbon upgrades no? 
I am waiting for that quicrun 16bl30 (havent bought a soldering iron so I went with this one which has the connections that I need) and will get some pics once I install it. 

Yes, I have upgraded most parts on this, all pretty pointless😬, but I really enjoy working on it. it has a carbon chassis, top deck, shock towers, battery strap and steering Ackerman.

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Finally took the car down for a proper run. It is so fast and drives so well, it’s fantastic. However the 6150kv motor is too much for the 16bl30 esc. Within 3 minutes the esc temps were up to 70 C. This was with the mid pinion.  The motor was cool however. I will get the 10bl60 when I order a soldering iron next month. 

74602E44-802F-4209-94CF-99224AAB48A2.jpeg

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34 minutes ago, Ag100 said:

Looking good, what battery are you using out of interest?

Just an old one I had from a maverick.  I am going to get some lipos soon. 

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You may find those tyres won’t have enough grip on anything loose once you get the lipo through it, the 1/10 touring car Fastrax Rally Block Are really good on mine.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 05/06/2020 at 08:47, Ag100 said:

finally finished it, quite pleased with how the paint came out.

really nice kit to build too.

Great service from DMS racing too


 

052994DD-F224-43C9-8182-B8813F5A23F9.thumb.jpeg.ccbc28ae9fd89e0f226d0699de02a8f1.jpegA8FECB2C-528B-4C4B-8EC2-48EA719674A4.thumb.jpeg.0cfeaa10269a4d89e29c1a4fca66f494.jpeg

 

I'm new to this and about to order an LC12B1 kit. This forum has been great to find information prior to ordering and starting the build. I really like the build above, what are the bumpers and tower protections? I read about the T-bone racing one but seems to be out of stock everywhere. 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, grarno said:

 

I'm new to this and about to order an LC12B1 kit. This forum has been great to find information prior to ordering and starting the build. I really like the build above, what are the bumpers and tower protections? I read about the T-bone racing one but seems to be out of stock everywhere. 

 

 

 

The Bumper is from T-Bone Racing, I ended up going direct to there US site, cost a bit on postage though.

The Shock protectors are 3D printed by one of the members on here.

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On 03/08/2020 at 17:10, Ag100 said:

Currently have the esc on the top deck, receiver in between motor and servo, capacitor on servo and switch on the top deck behind the esc. 
But with the standard body, I had the esc minus the fan squeezed in between the motor and servo, receiver on the servo and the capacitor and switch on the chassis in front of the receiver.

It is all very tight, but can be made to work.

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Quick questions. With the esc in this position, can you use the stock shell or do you need to use a phat body one?

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4 hours ago, jimbulsara said:

Quick questions. With the esc in this position, can you use the stock shell or do you need to use a phat body one?

Hi, no the stock shell wouldn’t fit with it in this position, so with the stock shell I put it between the motor and servo on its side, which worked fine (taped down), it was just purely that the Phat Bodies shell gave me more room so I could then put the esc on the top with the fan too.

I think without the fan and some thinner gauge wires you may be able to squeeze it under the stock shell (this is not the stock ESC, It’s the Quickrun 10BL 60) 

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I put spacers under the stock body mounts to raise the body and had a big ass 60amp esc on the top deck no fan on,  depending on what motor, gearing and sticking to 2s batteries you will get away with not having to have a fan on the 60a esc

 

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Edited by silone74
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