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Shumacher lc racing EMB-1


silone74

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1 hour ago, Deafty said:

That sux about the muppet standing on ya machine.   Good to hear from someone about the foams.  Please keep us updated on tire wear.  We aren't allowed tire sauce on our track but I am extremely interested in running foams, just never knew what to buy.  If you have time can you link them please.

This sunday we have a team event with a non stop 3 hr race (drive 10-15mins then next team driver heads out with his car)  Last time I ran a 1.10 but I'm tempted to bring the micro out for this one :)

These are the one's I used:

http://www.racing-cars.com/sp/category/Manufacturer/subcategory/Contact_RC/templateid/12/searchbox7/1-10_TC_-_Foams;_Electric.html

 

Wear will be key, the only other guy at our place who ran foams had issues due to the f/r wearing at different rates, thus causes motor issues (410v3 or 4 and no centre diff).  He did run additive, i'm not planning to and won't let them get too different in size.  I do have a matching 4 of 37sh, though I think running slightly harder on the front will help them wear at similar rate.

 

I'd pencilled in a Xmas rebuild, that new chassis, brace, bearings and servo already so the damage will have to be addressed then.  I'm annoyed, the Spektrum Rx is a mess (410) and not cheap, the esc should be salvageable.  Luckily the Phat Turbo shell survuved intact, or I would have been seriously raging!

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1/10th wheel adaptors and carpet tyres on 10th scale rims :) 

 

they beat the old foams in micros, even the old racers of rc18's had problems with foam wear and stripping, they went 10th scale rims and carpet slicks, and no addatives were allowed in the old times so we used to just get the most soft n sticky carpet tyres we could lol

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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The diff leak mod what is it ? another shim or two on the o rings either side of the out drives inside the diff. My rear sprung a leak, when I put more oil in I want to do it properly so it doesn't leak again

Edited by Fontie
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Sorry forgot about that Q.

Most micro sized diffs leak.  It's a matter of holding it in for longer imo.  I can tell you that 7k shouldn't leak, 5k is managable and 3k needs a wee mod.  That's just from my experience though, yours may be different.  Try using less oil than you previously used too ;)

As for the mod: I cut a groove on the outdrive (with a dremel) where it sits inside the diff case.  (much like a 1:8 diff)  Where I then added a thin oring.  You can try pfte tape too as sourcing a suitable oring may prove difficult.

I also bought some gasket paper from an automotive shop (0.3mm was their thinest) and carefully hand cut diff gaskets with an exacto knife.  This then results in the diff lid being around 0.2 mm higher, so re-shimming was then required.

I haven't had an issue since.  I have always opened my diffs every 10 packs or so but since making that wee mod I have had 1 less thing to worry about.  Oh and i am yet to break/snap an outdrive as a result of the dremeling.  Yours may be different.

I can also say that the diff lid on the latest 6 gear diffs are of a better seal.  Outdrives can still leak though :( 

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I've used these kind of 'track extenders' on several MT's over the years.

It can certainly change the stance, make the truck more stable, but if you're used to how and where you blast your current set-up, you really have to be careful where you take it - I was forever clipping trees I used to blast in and out of, or other obstacles.

It can also add more strain on the bearings, which may be a consideration.

Is the change of 'look' what you're looking for? Sometimes less is more - looks better.

Al.

Edited by atom3624
typo
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No it's purely handling related.  The stock truggy rims have around 12mm offset.  BUT and it's a big but, the chassis will not bottom out before the shocks do.  Increasing the offset further only makes it worse.  I have however modified my shocks to have a shorter compressed length.  In effect solving the issue.  Bearing strain is inevitable with the LC as the truggy has the same arms and driveshafts as the buggy :(

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7 hours ago, Deafty said:

Sorry forgot about that Q.

Most micro sized diffs leak.  It's a matter of holding it in for longer imo.  I can tell you that 7k shouldn't leak, 5k is managable and 3k needs a wee mod.  That's just from my experience though, yours may be different.  Try using less oil than you previously used too ;)

<Snip>

 

Thanks for the detailed fix Deafty. Not as easy a fix as I thought/hoped, I think what I will do for now is refill the diff and see what happens. Do you think 7k front and 5k rear would be to heavy. I might give it a try see how it runs, as its less lightly to leak might be a better option for me. I don't feel confident dremeling the out drives and what not. My hands are not as dextrous as they once were.

Edited by Fontie
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  • 2 weeks later...

anybody know if the new replacement EMB wings are made of better plastic like the body shells? looking to buggyfy my sct but dont want to be replacing wings every meeting. ( iknow you can use 1/10 wings)

Edited by lunchie
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On 1/3/2016 at 10:18 AM, lunchie said:

anybody know ifthe new replacement EMB wings are made of better plastic like the body shells? looking to buggyfy my sct but dont want to be replacing wings every meeting. ( iknow you can use 1/10 wings)

I didn't bother, and went straight to the Phat Bodies Gurt, which lasted almost a year.  It's no longer available of course, so I've tried a few others, and finally settled on the Hotbodies 175mm high downforce wing - the smaller 165mm would prob suit well too.  I've trimmed the back down a little aggressively, as I get plenty of grip on carpet and most of the 1:10 wings I tried had a tendency to make her point her nose up on the jumps, and needed full brake to jump level.

 

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8 hours ago, silone74 said:

New dirt cover for sct from lc racing, i think it would make a long wheelbase buggy lol.

_20160105_104008_zpsfxkwrldf.jpg

oh wow. that would make a great starting point for a plaster of paris mold to vacuum form a body. i was thinking about making a LWB a buggy body by using a swb body as a base for a mold, but  i think that would suit better. ive been watching loads of vacuforming vids on youtube and am keen to give it a go. :) thanks

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It had to happen eventually - rear wing snapped off into 3 pieces!

Kids had set up a ramp for their cars, my buggy landed upside down and the wing shattered. Not bad as it's the first damage it's received.

 

Options for a replacement? OEM?

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Coops said:

It had to happen eventually - rear wing snapped off into 3 pieces!

Kids had set up a ramp for their cars, my buggy landed upside down and the wing shattered. Not bad as it's the first damage it's received.

 

Options for a replacement? OEM?

 

 

 

Nooooo!  Just get a 1:10 wing- i'm currently using Hot Bodies D815 (I think!) 175mm and it's great on the track  - would have has the 165 but they we're OOS.

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3 hours ago, lunchie said:
4 minutes ago, lunchie said:

more details/pics on that front shock guard?

Home made, off cut of lexan, rectangular ish - heated with a lighter and bent down with numb cold hands.  Screwed through from the back.  Has held up fine for about 10 meetings so far.

Edited by capri-boy
typo
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