scrumpy jack Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 turn down the idle screw a touch...or did you move the LSN? If you did you may have turned it a little to far- Richen it again slightly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 Thanks jack, gonna have a brew then try again. Hope your here for the day, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano13 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Also don't get confuessed with the HSN and idle screw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 Thanks deano, that's about all I do know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfodds Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Agree with Jack but rule out your throttle trim first. If you apply the brakes does it stop over revving? If it does then it's your throttle trim that needs adjusting and not the screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano13 Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Take your air filer off and look down the carb, applie the brakes, if you see the gap close your throttle trim isit zero'd, if this is the case, zero your throttle trim on your tx, applie the brakes and there shouldn't be any movement, just a gap about 1 1.5mm Once your tx is zero'd there should be no movement when applying the brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 Thanks guys, at this moment in time I'm at the point of throwing it up the street, can't even start it again now! Gonna leave it now till tomorrow then have another go. Deano, thanks for the picture will have a look at that first. Just been to my local, very small, model shop and they said that they would take it to have a look and advise, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 As said before, is it normal to get air bubbles in the fuel line? Some are tiny little bubbles but on the odd occasion there is about an inch long stretch with no fuel, just air. Really appreciate all this help that everyone is giving.:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthoop Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 It would be to your advantage if you can get it working without taking it to the shop....unless they are going to do it in front of you. It may seem impossible to you at the moment but stick with it. Bubbles are not good in the fuel line...it means that the carb. is not getting a constant fuel supply. Did you alter the needles at all? Did you take the plug out and turn the car upside down and turn the engine over (with the pullstart), to empty out any fuel in the crankcase? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 (edited) It would be to your advantage if you can get it working without taking it to the shop....unless they are going to do it in front of you. It may seem impossible to you at the moment but stick with it. Bubbles are not good in the fuel line...it means that the carb. is not getting a constant fuel supply. Did you alter the needles at all? Did you take the plug out and turn the car upside down and turn the engine over (with the pullstart), to empty out any fuel in the crankcase? We have gone over the flooded syndrome my Phooey friend!...he has been turning the car over and getting out the excess fuel, sounds like he's doing everything right...same story with the needles. I agree not to take it to a shop though, have to learn this stuff by trial and error I think you have it nearly sussed though Demonchu Don't give up, at this stage I think the idle screw is the thing you need to be tweaking to get it up and running nicely, try to get another tank through it at idle then try leaning your HSN by an 1/8th...hopefully it will start to behave itself. Edited March 3, 2013 by scrumpy jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Oh, the inch long air bubbles are not good...check that your exhaust is sitting nicely on the gasket and your fuel tubes are all nicely seated on there respective nipples And make sure your fuel tank lid is properly sealing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Ok, will try and get rid of the air bubbles and let it idle away. Maybe lean out the HSN an 1/8th of a turn. If this doesn't work then take off the air filters and check the throttle trim. Will try this afternoon, you have been warned!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Fuel tank is sealed ok (turned upside down it doesn't leak). All pipes are attached to nipples ok. Can I remove the fuel line from the HSN nipple then remove the one from the exhaust, then blow through the one from the exhaust until all air bubbles are gone and only fuel is coming out. Then replace them both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 (edited) When I start my savage I always use the throttle trim to control the idle speed- I will open it a touch if the idle starts to drop to much and I think it's going to stall. I will lower it down a little if it's climbs a little to much. It's a good idea to remove the filter and play with the trim (without engine running), so you can see the carb opening and closing...this should give you an idea of how much to turn the trim to open and close it a little. Yes that's a good idea...blow through until you get a nice uninterrupted fuel flow through- if there is air leaks in the system then this will tell you....if there's still bubbles, there's a leak somewhere Edited March 3, 2013 by scrumpy jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Thanks Jack, to remove the air filters I will have to cut the 'cable tie' to remove? Then replace with a new one? Sorry but when everyone says about the throttle trim, you are meaning the throttle on the controller, aren't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Yes the controller trim- it will make small incremental adjustments to the throttle opening/closing. Yes you can cut off the cable tie- or just try to wiggle it off with it on- I tend to only zip tie the filter on tight enough to hold it, but loose enough that I can pull it off if I want. While you have it off have a good look at the carb gap and make sure there's about 1mm open (with your tx and rx powered on) also pull the throttle to full- you should see the carb slide fully open, then apply full breaks- the carb should close- but that 1mm gap should STILL be there! Your idle screw is what sets that gap- it's pretty important you get your head around this, by looking down the carb and playing with your transmitter controls, you should see how it's effecting the carb slide and with any luck you should have a 'light bulb' moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano13 Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 As I said above tho, when checking the carb gap, make sure your throttle trim is zero'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Cheers guys, will try this afternoon. Give neighbours a chance to wake up. Hope the 'light bulb' moment happens soon, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 As I said above tho, when checking the carb gap, make sure your throttle trim is zero'd Indeed, a good point...set the trim to it's 'neutral' position first, check the gap, it should be around 1mm- if not adjust your idle screw until you have that 1mm gap. As I said then when the engines started you can adjust the trim slightly to open up the gap to increase the rev's a little if you feel it's going to stall. I tend to keep the rev's slightly higher on my savage until it warms up nicely then I lower it back down after a quick little run about and it's all up to running temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epons300 Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Where you based mate if ya really struggling, someone maybe close to help you out. Maybe someone having a bash close ,but if anyone helps you need to be watching. Don't take hobby shop like the others said percivere mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Right, just taken off the air filter and looked inside the carb. Everything seems to be working as it should. Full throttle then brake and there was a 1 mm gap. Have seen it sliding across when I accelerate, so all good. When I left the throttle ALONE I tried to adjust the idle screw (black one sort of underneath) but couldn't see the slider moving. How much are you supposed to turn it before there is any change? It's quite a stiff screw and a bit awkward to get at because of the,angle. Also took off the fuel pipe and blew it out until no more air bubbles. Lunch time then try and fire it up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonchu Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 That's it, another 2 hours and not got it started once. Drained out the fuel, after run oil and left it BDC seriously thinking about taking it to the shop, just for them to get it running. Then I will try and tune it after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Oh dear that's not good, Seems odd you couldn't get it to start at all- your glow charger fully charged I presume? and plug still good? ...by the way If I use a little to much after run oil in an engine...it makes it a complete pig to start next time. So maybe this could be contributing to making it even harder for your car to start- just a thought. I only generally put in after run oil in, if I'm not going to use the car for a few days or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Just out of interest how long do you leave the glow starter on when it does start? On mine in the past I have left it on for anywhere upto 30secs or so,some people get the car going and just take it straight off,I have driven round briefly with it on as well. Have you had the plug out and put it on the glow starter to check it,a plug can only half work sometimes and unless you know that you will just assume it is working when you see the bottom part glowing. Was the screw you adjusted definitely the idle,normally you will see the gap change quite easily when you adjust it. Might be worth establishing exactly what is what and resetting the needles to factory defaults and going from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumpy jack Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 On the idle screw of my savage to increase it I find I have to pull open the carb a little to release the pressure on the screw- otherwise it's really hard to turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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