My Maverick ION MT project Brushless!

[bosq]

Guys some follow up on the project Summarizing's been great aventure and fun to upgrade it (and still IS!). Some fotos to commemorate my little frankenstein 😜

 

I think it time to think about some face-lifting, isn't ?

 

Summarizing, for more than 5years this little monster banged almost anything it could Hundrdes of walls, thousands of stones, tens of stairs, multiple trees, some legs, milions of curbs.  Dust, mud, moist, stones, sand, grass, agriculture lands..

 

From all the upgrades I've made the best were:

- miniquake diff on back - service free , fixing front stock diff with additional washer (too reduce loose and clicking inside, since I did it, it works without problems on front, rear needs more - so miniquake diff was 10/10 solution)

- own made hardend steel pinion gear (see some previous posts) and alu motor mount part no. M610 - totally service free, key was to make gearing chamber supersealed, no dust can come in.

- alu dogbones - sometimes only i lose these small pins, can't see solution for it. - part no. M608

- leopard brushless from asiatees with hobbyking remote + receiver GT2  + turningy Lipo 2200mAh - service free

- steel servo from turningy - service free in any weather / road condition (TGY-390V HV Metal gear Coreless Digital Servo w/ Heat Sink 5.4kg / .11sec / 22.5g )

- steel powder diff gear part no.  28600 - service free

- aluminium driveshaft part no. M609 - service free

- alu diff outdrives for front - part no.  M613 service free - the best would be steel ones, still loking for better upgrade.

- alu servo saver part no. M611 and alu Steering joint part no. M614.

- alu regulated suspension links

- ceramic ball bearing for wheels

-alu front wheel hub carriers part no. M605

-increased wheels (see some previous posts) with bigger hex  ( i quess wheels were no. HSP 58066 , as i cant find them on HK anymore )- huuge improvment on grass  - seee this thread:

 

Not recommended "upgrades":

- alu susp arms part no. M606 - they bend , too soft, switched back to stock, which are light and super durable.

- alu shocks part (old type, dont see them anymore in sales), stock shocks were superior to anything I've tried, just glued them in the bottom part so that they dont get unscrew and  stretched a bit springs as it was too soft. Filled with oil 1300, (leave some air on top, it's oil-gas part! piston coming in compresses shock chamber, if no air it will not work). Refilled only once in 5y!

-brass pinion gear p. no. 28601 / 28602 - plastic stock was too weak but brass was weaker than plastic,   aside - stock spur gear 23613 is great, don't ever upgrade it.

 

Great stock parts (no need to upgrade):

- shocks (as explained above)

- suspension arms - the same

- spur gear - the same

- hub carrier (23605), uprights (23604), knuckle arms (23603)

- chassis (23601)

-wheel axle (23607) if you prefer stock wheels

-upper deck (23611), battery cover (23620)

-stock bumper with stock hinges - durable as hell

 

Part numbers as per it's real name himoto E18MT / MTL and it's siblings - http://www.exportpro.biz/?page=0&accessories=spare_part or HSP

 

 

 

 

Edited April 16, 2021 by bosq

[Yrkoon]

just came across this very nice info on parts bosq, really useful, dad and i just got 2 ions the other day, they are great fun and we just spent a load on ebay with your list 

[iongrandpa]

After brreaking my rear diff and locking it to get it rolling again, a rear dogbone broke but then I found some on ali express that are really strong steel ones. they are aprox 0.5mm longer than stock, but really well made and cheaper.

 

search for RCtown 53mm Metal RC Car Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement Fit for HS 18301 18302 18311 18312 1/18 RC Car Upgrade parts

 

Edit, These are just a little too long and They may be limiting the travel of the suspension. Perhaps should have got those aluminium ones mentioned above.

Edited September 24, 2020 by iongrandpa
more complete info

[Jonystrachan77]

Really appreciate the info on this thread. I’ve ordered some upgrades from your suggestions (and avoided some too thanks! ) 

 

im just wondering if anyone on here using the maverick ion has any spares lying around. I’ve got a broken suspension arm and can’t get one delivered for weeks! Wondered if anyone had any parts for sale in the uk. 

[Yrkoon]

my ion xb failed earlier, no power to the back, i had it all apart looking at the diffs, they looked ok to me,  so i put em back together and still had no power to the back, i was lucky i had ordered some diff gears a while back, put in one of the little ones and a new bigger one and put in a washer behind one of the big ones to shim it a bit and it is going sweet again 🙂

 

 

 

gonna have to file down the front cup slots if i want to put my alloy shafts on them, i like the wee ion, it goes well 🙂

 

im getting tempted to use http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdID=LOSB9560

 

i used that system on the ions predecessor the atom..... and it is sitting here doing nothing lol

 

i have lost the program card for that brushless esc though.

 

 

Edited February 20, 2021 by Yrkoon

[bosq]

On 20/02/2021 at 05:23, Yrkoon said:

put in a washer

never underestimate a washer :)

 

[Stormbringer]

The lowly washer sorter of lots of things including worn rc diffs 

[Yrkoon]

main thing i always shredded was the input gears for the diffs on the end of the drive shaft on the atom, the ion has some big input gears and im getting tempted, just wish i could find my program card for that esc, i do notice there is a little button next to the power switch, maybe i can use that to set it.

 

at moment it is set to 2s and full 6000kv......

[Stormbringer]

of course thats damm typical of you lol 

[cv auto]

I used metal steel gear (exportpro no. 28600) 

[bosq]

7 hours ago, cv auto said:

I used metal steel gear (exportpro no. 28600) 

Yep, this one is everlasting, but to be honest.. yes.. yes.. I added small washer on the end of shaft for thighter connection of this gear with diff ;)) 

 

...I couldn't resist, like really 🙂

 

Edited February 27, 2021 by bosq

[bosq]

On 24/09/2020 at 10:55, iongrandpa said:

After brreaking my rear diff and locking it to get it rolling again, a rear dogbone broke but then I found some on ali express that are really strong steel ones. they are aprox 0.5mm longer than stock, but really well made and cheaper.

 

search for RCtown 53mm Metal RC Car Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement Fit for HS 18301 18302 18311 18312 1/18 RC Car Upgrade parts

 

Edit, These are just a little too long and They may be limiting the travel of the suspension. Perhaps should have got those aluminium ones mentioned above.

Could you check with caliper the leght of this replacement and let us know, my original upgrade haS 53MM, the same as they have in spec fort this part, is it so? Or is it longer than said? I need replacement as mine is not able to keep pins whatever I do. And is this replacement some heavy metal or alu?

 

 

Edited February 27, 2021 by bosq

[DJK]

@bosq I have a Himoto Barren brushless - essentially the same as Maverick Ion. I'm finding my steering servo seems weak - could you give a part number for the "steel servo from turningy - service free in any weather / road condition" ?

[bosq]

On 08/04/2021 at 22:55, DJK said:

@bosq I have a Himoto Barren brushless - essentially the same as Maverick Ion. I'm finding my steering servo seems weak - could you give a part number for the "steel servo from turningy - service free in any weather / road condition" ?

sure : 1x #9122000012/47620 TGY-390V HV Metal gear Coreless Digital Servo w/ Heat Sink 5.4kg / .11sec / 22.5g (EU Warehouse) = $17.28

 

But I'm not sure if they still sell it... but wait.. seem like they do with some inflation : https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigytm-tgy-390v-coreless-hv-ds-mg-servo-w-heat-sink-5-4kg-0-11sec-22-5g.html?wrh_pdp=1

 

I update also above post in case someone needs it. In case you wonder how I installed them, I simply took piece of plastic (poliamid/nylon in my case), made 2 small rectangular blocks, made hole through, hole from bottom and fixed with some random screws, plus some light grinding work on chasis with a file, no problem for years.

 

Edited April 16, 2021 by bosq
photos

[bosq]

Ho ho ho! .. new transplants from ali just arrived! Stay tuned 🙂

Edited April 16, 2021 by bosq

[Rvoss5]

Heya bosq, did those diffs fit? I really want to upgrade to some metal diffs as I've burned up half dozen diffs and can't find a miniquake diff.  My ion is kinda crazy. Will take some pics in just a few minutes.

[Rvoss5]

Here she is. I'm wondering if the latrax ball diffs fit in these. I may buy one just for ****s and giggles. I have a big fan on the motor. It's yeah racing. I used thermal glue to fix it to the brushless motor.  That's a ogrc servo, around 5kg of torque and.11.  Overall it's been a ridiculously fast car and I've broken many things. getting a programmer for the esc was a godsend. Thinking of getting the wheel adapter kit to put some bigger better wheels and tires on and going to upgrade the hubs the plastic is too bendy now and it doesn't go back to center anymore.

 

20221211_195058.heic 20221211_195102.heic 20221211_195120.heic 20221211_195128.heic 20221211_195133.heic 20221211_195140.heic

[DJK]

On 16/04/2021 at 18:29, bosq said:

Hi Bosq,

 

Thanks for the info on the servo - I managed to get an upgrade  JX servo (3.5 kg.cm) from my local RC store and fit it in a similar way to yours which seems to have sorted that problem. Still breaking other bits though! Have upgraded to steel dogbones and diff outdrives and centre drive shaft and pinion gears, but still chewing through diffs on a regular basis  - the ones in your picture look great - did they work out? If so, can you share the part number/weblink?