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Everything WR8


Dexter_ST

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I've left the centre diff alone.

Yesterday I picked up some 7000cst for the rear and some 10000cst for the front.

See how that goes.

Same here.. ;) I will crack centre at some point, but tbh it still feels nice and diffy :D

James, I think any diff oil regardless of being advertised as WT will actually be cst. I have Fastrax, shumacher, Mugen, associated and none of them are WT, even the Fastrax that's advertised at most places as WT!

Edited to add this...

Although to add confusion, look at the associated shock oils half way down this page!?:

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_category.php?catId=204&catPage=2&range=RACING

Now I'm confused- crazy!

Edited by J.A.Son
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Well I have Fastrax 10k in the front and associated 7k rear and it drives very nicely, as I'd expect for the ratio's I think I have, lol :D

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Same here.. ;) I will crack centre at some point, but tbh it still feels nice and diffy :D

James, I think any diff oil regardless of being advertised as WT will actually be cst. I have Fastrax, shumacher, Mugen, associated and none of them are WT, even the Fastrax that's advertised at most places as WT!

Edited to add this...

Although to add confusion, look at the associated shock oils half way down this page!?:

http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_category.php?catId=204&catPage=2&range=RACING

Now I'm confused- crazy!

That is confusing! The only reason I cracked the centre diff was because the bearings needed replacing, had it not been for that I would have left it alone. I am tempted to change the oil in the front and rear diffs though.

 

Well I have Fastrax 10k in the front and associated 7k rear and it drives very nicely, as I'd expect for the ratio's I think I have, lol :D

 

J.A.Son Is this the oils you used font and rear, Fastrax CML Racing Pure Silicone Diff Oil (7,000 wt) and Fastrax CML Racing Pure Silicone Diff Oil (10,000 wt)?

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James, I used Fastrax 10k (as in your link) but associated 7k cst and they feel as they should imo- with the 10k (fr) marginally stiffer/oil thicker.

This leads me to think the Fastrax stuff is also measured in cst?

If you haven't already bought, then use Fastrax for both, then you know they're compatible and takes away doubt if you have any. ;)

Edited by J.A.Son
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Cool mike! Did you need to run Bullet axels in order to accommodate those tyres?

Just finished fitting HD diff input shafts and whilst I was at it fitted the RC Bearings kit rubber shielded bearings. What a difference! Where as before, even when new, the input shaft wiggled like a dogs tail now they're held solidly in place and rotate soooo smoothly! Prob the main reason for the wear I had on OE shafts?

Bearings have to be #1 upgrade for the WR8!

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Mike, what steering servo are you running, looks too quick to be OE?!

Most seem to go for a Savox, but I'm unsure which one and they can be mega

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Yeah it's a Savox SC1258MG. It has a good amount of torque ;-)

 

About the price, I get almost all my stuff used... I would be able to afford the hobby if I didn't! I think I paid $30 for the servo off of Rctech.net. It was a great deal.

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Nice run Mike, too bad you forgot your racing socks... ;)

 

I only wear them in the afternoon ;-)

 

I just uploaded another vid of the WR8 Tarmac tires vs the 2.2" belted slicks being run on the same rig (The Super EP). It's an interesting watch...

 

 

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I only wear them in the afternoon ;-)

I just uploaded another vid of the WR8 Tarmac tires vs the 2.2" belted slicks being run on the same rig (The Super EP). It's an interesting watch...

Woah! What a difference!

Think I'll be buying some slicks in the future then....

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I know, Granted the WR8 (at least mine) won't be seeing the same speeds as the EP but it just goes to show what happens to the tires at those kinds of RPM.

 

As for the run itself, the car was very hard to keep straight and with the other tires it was straight as an arrow.

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As for the run itself, the car was very hard to keep straight and with the other tires it was straight as an arrow.

No kidding. Any chance you have a set of 4590s around to make a comparison vid? The 4590s are back in production, so they are easy to find and pretty inexpensive as a bonus.

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It's shocking how a spin or two... Or more..... Can cause simple damage!

 

Indeed-

 

This is my rear control arm outer hinge pin hole after the last run. (it's the 2nd time this has happened btw)

9kcB8lIl.jpg

 

gPGkIsxl.jpg

 

As you can see I now have toe on demand ;-)

Edited by Mgozzz
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No kidding. Any chance you have a set of 4590s around to make a comparison vid? The 4590s are back in production, so they are easy to find and pretty inexpensive as a bonus.

 

I'd love to but don't own any sets of the 4590s. I'd imagine they have to perform better than the tarmac tires though. They have thicker, lower profile sidewalls. If anyone has a set spin them up! I'd like to see how the fair too.

 

I've seen them as low as $8.99/pair too which is pretty cheap! 

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The arms have loads of flex for the rough stuff, but obviously they are too soft and wear easily. Been through a few sets myself. The added play is ok for rough off road, but (more) precision on road, not so much. To be fair, my car has had many hits that should have destroyed an arm, but not one to date.

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I'd love to but don't own any sets of the 4590s. I'd imagine they have to perform better than the tarmac tires though. They have thicker, lower profile sidewalls. If anyone has a set spin them up! I'd like to see how the fair too.

I have a set, but no GoPro :(

Great on road but they really need to warm up to get sticky at all.

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OK so I've just noticed a hole in one of my flux's tyres, so time to buy some new fifteen52's... Wondering what I should get tyre wise though. I'll be running on several surfaces including grass and loose dirt but also tarmac on occasion.

I'm guessing the racing slick would be brilliant on the tarmac and very drifty on the dust but fail in the grass....

Maybe just the gymkhana tyres with gaffa banding?

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