Nitroholic Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 As far as rear shocks go, I have never really had a setup I was happy with on an FG ...except when I removed the FG ones and fitted a pair of rears off an MCD.... They were lovely. Still have them in my spares pile. I just swapped over the MCD bottom forks with an FG 'eye' and bolted them on. Stopped my Marder clone from tipping over in the corners ....or dragging it's backside like a dog with worms if I wound off the preload Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) As far as rear shocks go, I have never really had a setup I was happy with on an FG ...except when I removed the FG ones and fitted a pair of rears off an MCD.... They were lovely. Still have them in my spares pile. I just swapped over the MCD bottom forks with an FG 'eye' and bolted them on. Stopped my Marder clone from tipping over in the corners ....or dragging it's backside like a dog with worms if I wound off the preload I'll see if they need bleeding but its funny I was looking at the innovativerc big bores for the MCD's and thought they look cool but it was a shame they had the funny bottom bit. So do they just screw on/off? Also, are they any longer than stock 'uns ad is like a bit more clearance? Edited June 14, 2013 by luke1983 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Longer shocks won;t help you on an FG....The rear arms mount on ball-joints, and these have limited movement. They also mean the arm hits the chassis if you try and raise the car that way. You can raise it by using the Elcon rear arms and mounts, as the arms are longer, but that's a pricey route, and would make your Pajero look odd as the wheels would stick out of the shell too far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 Yeah I just found that out mate! Got the rear suspension off now, was off to replace it with some spare shocks I have from my 6wd project but they won't fit in the gap on the lower arm. Bugger, back to the drawing board!. The other thing is that the originals rebound just fine without the weight of the car on them. Also, they are 100 mm long, 10 mm longer than the fronts but they have more spacers on them. I'm sure however that I read somewhere that the Marder rear shocks are 150 mm long, which if true would explain the low rear end of it?!? Might I have four front shocks on?? I'm thinking that it might just be the weight predominantly being on the rear forcing it down. Heavier oil & stiffer springs??? Whatever it is it needs sorting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 Well, I put all the spacers on the rear and that sorted the shock issue out, I think that the springs are too soft too support the cars weight. Problem is then that the front shocks go really loose! I've ordered some spare ones last night to put me on until I get a more permanent solution. Anybody know what the stiffest springs are? Also, fulled her up, and started her in the garage,can't believe the power/speed of it! A touch of the gas and it was at the other side of the garage! One thing I noticed however was that a little bit of fuel leaked out of the top seal. Should I be worried about this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FG Oli Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Top seal of what mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 Top seal of the fuel tank, as in around the fuel line which comes out the top of the tank. It started easy enough and sounded stable too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FG Oli Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Oh right could try taking it out and just re seating it back in or just get a new one if it has gone all hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 One thing I noticed however was that a little bit of fuel leaked out of the top seal. Should I be worried about this? I believe the expression is ... 'They all do that sir' .... Dry it off thoroughly, and smear a bit of silicon sealant under the upper lip of the rubber, and let it cure overnight. Does help to reduce it a bit. The cure is never to completely fill the tank up, and to make sure it doesn;t spend too long on it's roof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldman Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Loctite 5922 Flange sealant,i had same thing on the punisher plus,got the rubber seals out,clean & dryed,then smear them with this stuff,back in &leave 24hrs,so far its worked fine,it is claimed as being resistant to petrol. Goldman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) Cheers for the heads up guys, It runs fine but I'll get some of that loctite stuff. Had a run with it yesterday, great fun but the shaft for the gear fell out which halted the fun. New parts will be ordered soon though & another run to see what else needs doing! Only flipped it once but it landed on its wheels and carried on great! Here's a pic of it & Olly's Baja which I had a go with and really want to 4wd it now!! Edited June 16, 2013 by luke1983 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldman Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 That looks a nice buy,you can get that Loctite at Halfords,or off fleabay. Goldman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 (edited) Cheers mate. Anybody used these??? They look cool but may be a bit flimsy. What about these? I'm also looking at the alloy gear carriers, Engine mounts & some black bone gears as next months upgrades! I know I should wait til they break but... I've also put a few more collets in to the front and rear shock which has stiffened them up nicely. Might be a bit too much depending where about I run it next. I replaced the screws that held the body on as well with the proper FG parts, nice cheap Edited June 18, 2013 by luke1983 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldman Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 (edited) Blackbone gears are well worth getting,am doing gear plate/mount ,and alloy servo tray next,waiting for the bits to show up,engine mounts will also get done soon,then its off to bash&smash!!!!,.Of the two lots of shocks,the set of four do look a bit flimsy,the others look better,the guy at fiely is fine to deal with,got some bits off him a bit back,no probs whatever. Goldman Edited June 18, 2013 by goldman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarfy Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Cheers mate. Anybody used these??? They look cool but may be a bit flimsy. What about these? I'm also looking at the alloy gear carriers, Engine mounts & some black bone gears as next months upgrades! I know I should wait til they break but... I've also put a few more collets in to the front and rear shock which has stiffened them up nicely. Might be a bit too much depending where about I run it next. I replaced the screws that held the body on as well with the proper FG parts, nice cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 Blackbone gears are well worth getting,am doing gear plate/mount ,and alloy servo tray next,waiting for the bits to show up,engine mounts will also get done soon,then its off to bash&smash!!!!,.Of the two lots of shocks,the set of four do look a bit flimsy,the others look better,the guy at fiely is fine to deal with,got some bits off him a bit back,no probs whatever. Goldman I've only heard good things about the blackbone gears and will definitely be getting some soon. Cheers for the advice and will you be doing a thread for the mods you mention mate? I think they are all the sensible mods, as in functional! You dont need a gear carrier with the blackbone gears. They have opposing flats to stop them spinning on the shaft and are held in place with the E-clip on the end of the shaft. Check your clutch bell and layshaft have the opposing flats to suit the blackbone gears as some have the flats at 90deg to each other. The FG ally shocks in your second link are excellent & well worth the money over stock. I'll look into that Dwarfy. Them Shocks are long gone now - someone got them for twenty quid a pair. I'll keeping my eyes peeled for similar after payday!! I went to reattach my spur gear tonight as I thought it was the shaft ( called the layshaft if i'm right??? ) which had come out but the shaft I bought to replace it is too large a diameter to fit in the centre hole of the spur gear so I am a bit bamboozled to be honest! I took a picture of it, included below, which needs rotating 90 degrees anti clockwise. If anyone has any ideas I'd greatly appreciate your input please? If not I'll have to investigate further at the weekend when I have more time, I'd rather go for a spin with it though!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarfy Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 (edited) I've only heard good things about the blackbone gears and will definitely be getting some soon. Cheers for the advice and will you be doing a thread for the mods you mention mate? I think they are all the sensible mods, as in functional! I'll look into that Dwarfy. Them Shocks are long gone now - someone got them for twenty quid a pair. I'll keeping my eyes peeled for similar after payday!! I went to reattach my spur gear tonight as I thought it was the shaft ( called the layshaft if i'm right??? ) which had come out but the shaft I bought to replace it is too large a diameter to fit in the centre hole of the spur gear so I am a bit bamboozled to be honest! I took a picture of it, included below, which needs rotating 90 degrees anti clockwise. If anyone has any ideas I'd greatly appreciate your input please? If not I'll have to investigate further at the weekend when I have more time, I'd rather go for a spin with it though!! Looks like you got the layshaft the wrong way round, usually the screw hole has a screw to retain the layshaft gear at the other end of the shaft. If you check you may find there is a groove for an E-clip where you have your layshaft gear that should be at this end to retain the spur gear. Edited June 24, 2013 by dwarfy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 Looks like you got the layshaft the wrong way round, usually the screw hole has a screw to retain the layshaft gear at the other end of the shaft. If you check you may find there is a groove for an E-clip where you have your layshaft gear that should be at this end to retain the spur gear. Ahh, so if I extract it and turn it around it ought to screw on at the other and E clip on at the end i can see? Guess what I'll be up to tonight!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarfy Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 (edited) Ahh, so if I extract it and turn it around it ought to screw on at the other and E clip on at the end i can see? Guess what I'll be up to tonight!? I would say so but just do a visual check to see if you got the E-clip groove at the other end. It could be that your shaft has the screw at both ends in which case you are missing the screw and retaining washer. The shaft itself should be 10mm diameter but I cant see that being wrong. Another check to make sure its the right way round, there should be a long flat on the shaft (almost half the length) which goes at the spur gear end so that the brake square can lock on without spinning. If its the wrong way round you will be able to see this flat between the layshaft gear and large engine mount.The layshaft gear end will have 2 equal length shorter flats. If you click on the small pic on the right in the link below, this clearly shows the shaft with the flats and spur gear should go on the left, the long flat also secures the brake square and the layshaft goes on the short flats to the right. You can also see the E-clip groove at the spur gear side. This is the standard shaft but you could have the shaft shown in the small pic on the left which has 2 retaining screws subject to the checks above. http://www.rossmod.co.uk/fg-pinion-shaft-10-mm-1pcs-06041.html Edited June 25, 2013 by dwarfy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted June 25, 2013 Author Share Posted June 25, 2013 I would say so but just do a visual check to see if you got the E-clip groove at the other end. It could be that your shaft has the screw at both ends in which case you are missing the screw and retaining washer. The shaft itself should be 10mm diameter but I cant see that being wrong. Another check to make sure its the right way round, there should be a long flat on the shaft (almost half the length) which goes at the spur gear end so that the brake square can lock on without spinning. If its the wrong way round you will be able to see this flat between the layshaft gear and large engine mount.The layshaft gear end will have 2 equal length shorter flats. If you click on the small pic on the right in the link below, this clearly shows the shaft with the flats and spur gear should go on the left, the long flat also secures the brake square and the layshaft goes on the short flats to the right. You can also see the E-clip groove at the spur gear side. This is the standard shaft but you could have the shaft shown in the small pic on the left which has 2 retaining screws subject to the checks above. http://www.rossmod.co.uk/fg-pinion-shaft-10-mm-1pcs-06041.html Nice 1 Dwarfy - some great info there cheers pal! Either way I know what I got to do now. Is the one with a bolt & washer either end an upgrade or summat? Didn't get chance to do awt tonight as had to stay at work for a few extra hours - don't get home til 9! Fingers crossed same won't happen tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojie Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hi Dwarfy, Luke, I have just bought a Pajero from Luke. Looks like this one so reading this history is interesting. Initially I had doubts that it was an FG !, and still do. Too early to tell, but I bought it for the shell and undertray which are FG. Luke snapped the upper wishbone linkage before he sent it to me, no complaint as I knew about it. I need to repair that front end and am trying to figure-out whether the front is FG or Smartech. I have a totally original FG Marder and the front end upper and lower wishbones are quite triangular. The upper wishbones on the Pajero are D shaped. On the Pajero the A and B bulkheads are connected by two shafts from which the front shockers are 'suspended'. The front shockers on my Marder are hung from the B bulkhead. I have seen photos of an FG front end that is similar to the Pajero, so Luke, Dwarfy, any idea whether I need an FG part, a Smartech part, or any other brand. There is an X brace fitted acreoss the A and B bulkheads which looks very Smartech, but could have been fitted as an afterthought. I have plans for the front-end anyway but need a temporary fix. interesting that Luke was investigating alloy front parts, as they never made it onto the car he sold me. As I said I have no complaints. Any help appreciated, Best regards Rojie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Glad your happy with it Rojie. It is the same one. It was bought as an FG one but I didn't ask about it specifically, just assumed it was to be honest. Sorry I can't help any more than that mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojie Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I'm making slow progress as I am rebuilding my Marder at the moment. Front suspension on the Pajero seemed to be a mixture of Marder Race top wishbones and normal Marder bottom wishbones. Wishbone pins C clips were missing and the shafts themselves were the incorrect length. All fixed now by using Marder upper and lower wishbones (which are identical, although non-adjustable), new shafts and new spacers. All OK now. The suspension ? I haven't gotten to the bottom of that yet. The front shockers are standard Marder but fitted with rear springs, presumably to raise the car. I will refit the correct length springs and see what happens. ! The rear shockers seem soft and I intend to replace the springs. There was also a differential riser fitted (which lowers the chassis). The mystery begins..... The riser has been removed, but then the large engine mount now is too tall (but was the wrong one anyway which, in turn, caused the twin discs to bind against the lower right hand side gear plate bolt) ! A new correct large engine mount has been fitted which also moves the gear plate bolt inwards away from the brake discs. Now the layshaft bearing housing in the large engine mount, and the bracket that fits to it are all aligned. Unfortunately, the layshaft bearing in the old gear plate was also wrong, as was the layshaft itself and the drive pinion bearing was seized to the shaft. Bearing has been replaced, layshaft too; now, thankfully everything aligns correctly. No more layshafts dropping out !!! Final drive pinion is well worn, loose layshafts notwithstanding, so a new has been ordered. Clutch bell binds too, something somewhere is slightly bent, so bell will be replaced. Lots more to do, not least of which will be restoring the bodyshell, warmer weather is needed. I cannot identify the lower rear wishbones, so they will be replaced for stock Marder parts. Lots more to restore, been quite a challenge but very rewarding so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke1983 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Wow, sounds like you've been busy mate! You'll have to post some pics when complete!Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rojie Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Hi Luke, Body and undertray were in pretty good shape, as you know. Tuned pipe is not from a Marder and has, literally, blown some of the paint from the inside of the shell, so shell needs a good touch-up to repair the few nicks and scratches. Should look good as new, which is the objective. Who painted your 6x6? I have the 3 paints, hope the red is a good close match ! Just waiting for some warmer weather and a bit of time. I am taking some pics as I go along, when I remember! So I will post some later, and I figure out how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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