Soldering issues

[smeghead28]

Every time I try to solder either a deans or TRX connector to some 12AWG wire I have a problem.

I am using a 40W iron but every time I make a joint it is dull looking and breaks very easily.

Its a bit of a mystery to me as I have never had the problem before although I have never tried it on wire so thick.

Even when I tin the connector and the wire before hand they go dull looking as well,they start shiny but dull quickly as it cools.

I have halved the lenght of wire on one battery pack just though trying.

Would a higher wattage iron be better,I am under the impression that 40W is the absolute minimum recommended.

Also I have read that the solder goes dull because the resin is getting burned cause I am holding the heat on too long.

I am a bit worried as what to do as I dont want to end up with a useless ESC cause I cant solder a blooming connector onto it

[atom3624]

I've just spent a total of perhaps 4 hours soldering 12x 8AWG connections into Castle 8mm bullets.

The problem I had was not destroying the heatshrink.

I've high discharge 3S batteries I'm using in my E-Maxx, so I required that kind of connection.

I had very few problems, using my 100W soldering iron - some recommend up to 120W.

You WILL have problems getting sufficient temperature with a 40W iron.

Did you 'tin' both first? Melt in some solder into the wire and onto the contact? This helps a little.

I remember my efforts years ago with a 30-40W iron, and have encountered similar recently, then went onto the internet - here and within Google.

MORE POWER is the answer - certainly an absolute minimum of 80W to get there with 12AWG.

Al.

[smeghead28]

Yeah did tin the ends,looks like a new iron might be needed then.

I dont think the iron I have now is at its best either as I have had it quite a few years.

[atom3624]

That's another problem with the higher power irons - they 'nuke' the tips quite quickly - surprised me!!

Al.

[Corbs10]

I've just spent a total of perhaps 4 hours soldering 12x 8AWG connections into Castle 8mm bullets.

The problem I had was not destroying the heatshrink.

I've high discharge 3S batteries I'm using in my E-Maxx, so I required that kind of connection.

I had very few problems, using my 100W soldering iron - some recommend up to 120W.

You WILL have problems getting sufficient temperature with a 40W iron.

Did you 'tin' both first? Melt in some solder into the wire and onto the contact? This helps a little.

I remember my efforts years ago with a 30-40W iron, and have encountered similar recently, then went onto the internet - here and within Google.

MORE POWER is the answer - certainly an absolute minimum of 80W to get there with 12AWG.

Al.

you can manage with 60w doing 8awg wire as i use a 60w take a wide tip but it does it perfect

[igbandy]

I use a Weller 40 watt iron with a "hard tip" and it solders Deans and pretty much everything else I attempt with it. I also have an 80 watt iron, but that rarely gets used. And a 12volt 50 watt Wasp iron that is over 20 years old, and that works a treat if soldering is needed when out and about.

With soldering irons go for a quality make every time.

[Corbs10]

I use a Weller 40 watt iron with a "hard tip" and it solders Deans and pretty much everything else I attempt with it. I also have an 80 watt iron, but that rarely gets used. And a 12volt 50 watt Wasp iron that is over 20 years old, and that works a treat if soldering is needed when out and about.

With soldering irons go for a quality make every time.

you may pay a bit more for the iron but it shows in the finish and quallity

this should be perfect

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5d34130bfa

and use good quallity solder with a content of LEAD SOLDER WIRE REEL 60/40, 2% FLUX CORE dont go for the lead free stuff

Edited January 1, 2013 by Corbs10

[smeghead28]

you may pay a bit more for the iron but it shows in the finish and quallity

this should be perfect

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5d34130bfa

and use good quallity solder with a content of LEAD SOLDER WIRE REEL 60/40, 2% FLUX CORE dont go for the lead free stuff

Oooh,I like the look of that

Find me a decent solder as well would you,hehe

[goldman]

Not enough heat,think its what they call a dry joint.

Goldman

[smeghead28]

Not enough heat,think its what they call a dry joint.

Goldman

I didnt think that a dry joint was always caused by lack of heat though?

[igbandy]

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1e74c310e2

I have been using this antex solder for a while now.

Edited January 1, 2013 by igbandy

[fatboyneil]

The antex stuff is only good for pcb's and small applications I've been having to make do with a 25w antex iron for ages now its hard to solder 10awg wire into 6mm bullets but possible when you know how to go about it like having the iron pointing upwards so heat travels to the tip and having it on for a good hour before using it

[ms_sjo]

That's another problem with the higher power irons - they 'nuke' the tips quite quickly - surprised me!!

Al.

You won't nuke bits if it's a temperature controlled iron. Using lead free solder doesn't help either as it has a much higher melting point than 60/40. I pretty much always use a gas iron to do beefy connectors. I use the Iroda SolderPro 120 which can be found for 20-30 quid if you look around a bit and Maplin carry the spares.

Gas irons aren't temp controlled so you still have the same problems but you learn how control it with the gas flow valve depending on the type of work you're doing and wether or not you're outside in the wind etc.

[Killer RC]

Not enough heat,think its what they call a dry joint.

Goldman

We call it a Cold Solder.

I prefer silver solder, like this http://www.thecableco.com/Product/Wonder-Solder--Lead-Based-

For soldering we use a couple Weller WX2's. They're awesome.

http://www.apexhandt..._industrial.cfm

Edited January 1, 2013 by Killer RC

[rawalker666]

i use one of these gas soldering irons it is very handy to have in your tool bag when you go out for on the spot repairs problem with it though it goes through tips quite quick http://www.maplin.co.uk/solderpro-120-gas-soldering-iron-35515

and use this solder http://www.maplin.co.uk/lead-free-silver-solder-34965

i never have a problem with bad connections

[smeghead28]

Thanks everyone.

I must admit I am still apprehensive about doing this and its putting a bit of a dampener on the whole thing,silly I know,its only a bit of wire

[J13MEX]

Use a crap soldering iron, get a crap result.

I use the Snap On gas powered one and its perfect.

Not massively expensive either..

[DaveJuk]

The trouble is that 99% of items bought - have used lead free solder for the joints, this is because of the lead contained in standard solder.

Lead free solder requires a lot more heat to melt. I redid both my motors using 12 awg cable and a 20 watt soldering iron and both were fine.

The key is to use a solder sucker to remove ALL the old solder,using a braid or solder sucker and then get some good quality multicore and go from there. Re doing every joint.

Id say tin the cable, and fill the bullet full of solder. Then dont touch the wire, heat the bullet untill the solder melts and then push the tinned wire in and let it cool.

With soldering practice makes perfect

[Tomahawk89]

I use liquid rosin flux at work and it works really well, i just dab some on the wire before i solder and i never get a dry joint or solder spikes. Just use acetone or something similar to clean off the excess flux after soldering.

Edited January 1, 2013 by Tomahawk89

[Corbs10]

Oooh,I like the look of that

Find me a decent solder as well would you,hehe

i use this last me ages

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a6c02a047

but if want a smaller length use this

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19d56bf2cd

or for small stuff like pcb etc

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item41657dfc71

and practice on scrap wire and some cheap bullets/deans/xt60 will save you in the long run

Edited January 1, 2013 by Corbs10

[smeghead28]

i use this last me ages

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a6c02a047

but if want a smaller length use this

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19d56bf2cd

or for small stuff like pcb etc

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item41657dfc71

and practice on scrap wire and some cheap bullets/deans/xt60 will save you in the long run

Thanks again,ordered the iron and solder.

I am thinking that maybe the solder might be enough with the iron I have now,we will see.

On Thursday I am going to order the ESC and a few other bits from Modelsport including a length of 12AWG wire to practice on

[Corbs10]

Thanks again,ordered the iron and solder.

I am thinking that maybe the solder might be enough with the iron I have now,we will see.

On Thursday I am going to order the ESC and a few other bits from Modelsport including a length of 12AWG wire to practice on

you can try with your old iron nothing to loose

get some extra connectors from like hobby king $4 for like 10 to practice on (i went though a pack till i got it right and looking ok dont forget heatshrink)

Edited January 1, 2013 by Corbs10

[smeghead28]

Well,the solder that was suggested turned up today before the 80w iron so I gave the solder a go on its own.

Success!

The new iron wont hurt but it looks like the solder was the key,the lead free I had before would appear to be okay for small wire but not good enough for 12AWG,at least in my experience anyway.

[andyllewellyn]

good solder and a good iron is a must

i spent a long time messing with electric one's from cheapo's to temp controlled stations and never got on with them

got a 70watt gas one from maplins and it's fantastic

heats in seconds and is portable

and when soldering bullets i use the heat shrinking tool and put the bullet in a vice or whatever your using

think they were on offer at maplins over crimbo so only