ms_sjo

It's been about a decade since I was last on this forum, and i'm here because I just ordered the Schumacher Procat Classic kit! The Procat was the first decent model I raced with when I was a kid probably around 90-91, so when I saw this come up at a fairly reasonable cost, I just couldn't help myself! Now it may just end up a shelf queen.. I don't race, or do anything R/C anymore.. but I am curious what other people have purchased the kit, upgrades etc.. I saw one chap had some carbon parts - are they for the original Procat, or new release for the Classic kit?.. Just curious about what's out there really! Thanks 🙂

I've used this guy before with good results: http://www.maxbashing.com/mbforum/showthread.php?18228-N-Design/page8

I guess only the manufacturer could tell us for sure, then.

Yeah, I see the marketing spiel on their website. So either the website is wrong, or the MSDS information is out of date. The latter would be a bit concerning.

Just pure castor according to the MSDS. 10-12%. That total oil percentage is comparable to other fuels, like Bryons, Optifuel Race, MT BigBang etc. Pure castor though will varnish an engine over time, definitely something to run after-run oil through if leaving the engine for more than a few days. The problem with a fuel like this is the castor will help seal the engine as parts of it wear over time. This is all good, for the most part, however when you then switch to a pure synthetic fuel with additives, it will 'clean' the engine (again over time), removing the deposits left by the castor oil and you will lose some compression in the engine. Unfortunately a quick switch back to castor won't instantly fix the problem!

This is nonsense. Look here to find out what's in the fuel: http://www.powermasterfuels.com/images/msds/Nitromethane10-30_RSD-ISS-MSDS-NA-US.pdf

Right.

The turbulence is caused by the pressure waves from the tuned pipe. I can take a video of an engine on my dyno if you want to demonstrate this?

There's a lot of turbulence inside the fuel tank under high load, it's perfectly normal.

Looks a Fioroni clutch copy?

There's something not quite right on that page describing the NR engine. 13mm square? That'd leave you with a 1.72cc (.11/12!) engine, not 3.45! (.21). The Fastrax engine, being slightly under-square (e.g. more stroke than bore), maxes out at about 36k rpm. The NR may go higher, but gearing (e.g. pinion/spur ratio) will make both of them equally useable for bashing. I'd probably go for the Fastrax..

This might be of help: http://www.clubmap.bmfa.org/

Real dyno results. 1) How is the dyno calibrated? 2) What correction method was used on the dyno? 3) What condition were the engines in? I can tell you as a fact that power output changes radically with engine wear on this type of engine. As the other chap touched on, power is a function of torque. A 23cc engine is going to produce a lot more torque than a 3.45cc one, however power is limited to how fast you can spin the engine whilst maintaining air flow! A real world example; petrol vs diesel engines. A ~150hp diesel engine will typically be faster than a 200hp petrol one, even though it doesn't spin anywhere near as fast. Why? Torque (and appropriate gearing).

As per title, need std fit 90 deg exhaust manifold for .21 size engine. Not fussed on brand/spec. Let me know if you have anything. Thanks!

In the process of sorting out my new space..

Got some random pipes, would like to ID them if possible: No name Team Factory - but which model? No name, basher style fitment Thanks

Thanks for the comments so far

Thanks for the info folks. I am not looking to get into 1/5th racing, but am interested in what the various combinations used/raced are.

Hi there, I am looking to learn more about engines used in 1/5th scale models, both for bashing and racers (latter more relevant, if any different). Particular information I am looking for :- - Are the engines interchangeable, if not, what are the common differences? - What are the starting mechanisms? (assuming pull start is used everywhere) - What are the engine limitations when it comes to racing? (e.g. rules/regs) - What pinion/spur pitches are commonly used? - What type of clutches are available/used? Appreciate anyone with some time and knowledge wiling to help out with the above Many thanks

This is an interesting topic. I've often tried to recollect how I used to fund my racing hobby back in the early 90's when I was 13-16 years old. I used to do a lot of 'wheeling & dealing' as a kid, but as we know most of the time when you buy/sell you tend to lose money in this game. So i'm not convinced I funded it from doing that. I don't _think_ my parents funded it, I can't clearly remember, neither can they, they didn't have much money and I wasn't completely spoilt (like a lot of r/c brats). I did have a couple of pocket-money sidelines but I still don't see how it funded the hobby. I don't think I ever had a brand new model though. Possibly a Losi XX, but not sure. Other models I had were Cats, Losis, Lazer ZX's, Dogfighters. I think it just revolved around a sweet spot of buying/selling/trading 2nd hand stuff. From memory I rarely bought anything new. I remember my past-Uncle from Australia visiting and giving me

Please PM me your best price on the four pipes. Thanks!

Nitrotek stock all the spares for these.

If the wheels are turning but the drive shaft (assuming you mean the main prop shaft either side of the gearbox?).. then:- - The wheels aren't tight/missing pin - The diffs are broken - Your hallucinating

As above, MT BigBang has less oil in it than Byrons, so this isn't necessarily correct, unless you were using the wrong MT fuel?

Wanted to follow up on my previous comment. I recently purchased a gallon of Byron fuel and was somewhat surprised to find the oil content higher than the MT BigBang @ 10% oil? So is all the Model Technics hate just because folk may be buying the wrong fuel, and/or don't know what they should buy?