Nickarla Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 No you need to keep it on LiPo even with brushed. On LiPo it cuts out when the voltage drops below approx. 3.2v. On the nimh setting it will just keep draining the LiPo. Go much past 3.0 and you will likely kill the battery. If you run it down then the LiPo is all but goosed. That could explain why you’re having issues as a 5000mah should see 25mins+ and that’s being mean. I get 50mins on my 6000mah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie007 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 It will go for half hour plus easy on this setting. I’ve got one of those alarm things you plug the balance lead into from when we had the old esc. I don’t understand why the lipo setting is cutting it down to low power after a minute. Unless I can figure it out it will have to stay on the nihm setting with the alarm plugged it - at least it works! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 If that works then it indicates a potential issue with the esc. Just for clarity is it the HobbyWing 1060? When did you get it and from where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie007 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Yeah hobbywing quickrun 60A 2s-3s (oh yeah!) waterproof brushed esc for 1/10. Says quick run 1060 on it. Got it from hobby king. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Ok, good esc but for future reference if it’s the same price as Modelsport I would always use them first. MS customer service: 10. Hobbyking: 1, lol. You could try contacting Hobbyking and explain the problem as it does sound like something is not right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie007 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Ah good to know ?♂️ Thanks have sent them an email. I’ll hold my breath for a response.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 Hobbyking is excellent for a lot of parts as they are cheap. Power HD servos come up at £17 sometimes compared to £32 with Modelsport etc but you kinda take a bigger risk with HK. Not with items turning up but the after sales. Ive has a few returns with MS such as an esc that went up in flames many months after I bought it. MS replaced without even wanting to see the receipt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 2 hours ago, Charlie007 said: thought if it was ok for 2s it would be ok for 1s 1s = 3.7v (one cell = 3.7v) 2s = 7.2v (two cells, hence 2s... 2x3.7v) And to calculate what voltage a 3s is you just add another 3.7v (3s = 3 cells) So 3s is 11.1v Your esc is rated to run on 2s or 3s batteries... So it needs a minimun of 7 volts to work. A 1s battery voltage is too low at 3.7v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 this is more of a weird thing ive experienced in general. for some reason, some lipo devices get a brain fart and think that my lipo batteries are on low voltage when they are not (i have a voltage displaying thingy). This has happened with my phone too. it auto shutsoff even though its at full charge. sometimes some parts just break and lipo cutoff kicks in too early. and sometimes its the batteries themselves. my old 5000mah nimh wouldnt delivery enough voltage to to the motor so itd be sluggish as all hell. but my even older stock nimh worked fine. sometimes the battery and/or the esc voltage detector just goes oranges are green and peas are chocolate. another thing. do not use batteries at a lower voltage then specified. it says 2-3s for a reason. using lower voltages can damage components supposedly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 8 hours ago, Jamil237237 said: it says 2-3s for a reason. using lower voltages can damage components supposedly. I think that's an urban myth tbh. Things won't work properly but shouldn't get damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 2 hours ago, PH001 said: I think that's an urban myth tbh. Things won't work properly but shouldn't get damaged. why else would they put 2-3? done some research. if the motor doesnt get the amount of voltage it wants, it tends to draw more amps. voltage can be regulated, amps not so much for some reason. amps is what causes heat. thats why high voltage lower amps is much more efficient than high amps lower voltages. well either way both of us arnt really electrical technitions. best to listen to the warnings unless we are willing to take risks and/or know what we are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BashingBrian Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 So I've killed it, I think...!!! ?? Was running the castle 5700kv motor on 3s with the larger proline slicks, 18T pinion etc, my god it was fast when you could get it going..!! It was ballooning the tyres and not even on full throttle, when you gun it, it just did donuts whilst trying to go in a straight line..??? Big mistake, forgot to take temps while playing... now the motor has that nasty electric melty burning smell and it is just cogging like crazy and doesn't even move forward..? Quick question.. does it sound like it's dead..?? @Fly In My Soup And I didn't even get a chance to put the cerix in it..!!? R.I.P bag o' bits....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) 21 hours ago, Jamil237237 said: why else would they put 2-3? done some research. if the motor doesnt get the amount of voltage it wants, it tends to draw more amps. voltage can be regulated, amps not so much for some reason. amps is what causes heat. thats why high voltage lower amps is much more efficient than high amps lower voltages. well either way both of us arnt really electrical technitions. best to listen to the warnings unless we are willing to take risks and/or know what we are doing. I'm an electronics engineer! The 2-3S rating is really for the ESC as they need a minimum voltage to work properly, but again won't damage anything. It just fires the LVC (low voltage cutout) if the volts drop below it's rating. The motor doesn't give a stuff what volts it gets within reason, it's just a dumb lump of metal with 6 coils of wire and some magnets in! Edited March 5, 2019 by PH001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 3 hours ago, BashingBrian said: So I've killed it, I think...!!! ?? Was running the castle 5700kv motor on 3s with the larger proline slicks, 18T pinion etc, my god it was fast when you could get it going..!! It was ballooning the tyres and not even on full throttle, when you gun it, it just did donuts whilst trying to go in a straight line..??? Big mistake, forgot to take temps while playing... now the motor has that nasty electric melty burning smell and it is just cogging like crazy and doesn't even move forward..? Quick question.. does it sound like it's dead..?? @Fly In My Soup And I didn't even get a chance to put the cerix in it..!!? R.I.P bag o' bits....? Oh dear Brian! Could either be the ESC or the motor that's cooked. Any heatsink on the motor? Need to check resistance from each of the three wires on the motor to check if all the same - it's possible that the windings are cooked in which case it will be shorting out between turns. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Putting the larger wheels on increased the load on the motor, simple as that.The 5700k castle motors can be run on 3S but its not reccomended. Running the standard buggy wheels would have been ok for speed runs on 3S but anything else would strain motor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BashingBrian Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) @PH001 ESC is fine tested with another motor, looks like I cooked the Castle...??? How would I go about testing the resistance on it... I have a multimeter..?? Was thinking of putting a 3660 can in it next, but I think I'll cut my losses and move on..... Edited March 4, 2019 by BashingBrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly In My Soup Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 19 minutes ago, BashingBrian said: @PH001 ESC is fine tested with another motor, looks like I cooked the Castle...??? How would I go about testing the resistance on it... I have a multimeter..?? Was thinking of putting a 3660 can in it next, but I think I'll cut my losses and move on..... Yeah you've cooked your motor.... Excessive heat can unglue the magnets causing them to shift.... The other possibility being a shorted wire... Causing phase diruption. Dude... Go get yourself a gool rc 3650 motor.. 4300kv one.... Use with cerix on 3s.... Enjoy.... I used that combo for months with no issues..... Pm me if you selling up.... Always wanted to see what ftx electric are like.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 2 hours ago, PH001 said: I'm an electronics engineer! The 2-3S rating is really for the ESC as they need a minimum voltage to work properly, but again won't damage anything. It just fires the LVC (low voltage cutout) if the volts drop below it's rating. The motor doesn't give a stuff what volts it gets within reason, it's just a dumb lump of metal with 3 coils of wire and some magnets in! but to my knowledge, if something wants amps, it will try to get thoose amps even if it damages something. eh. you are the electrical engineer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BashingBrian Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Its final moments...? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 4 hours ago, BashingBrian said: @PH001 ESC is fine tested with another motor, looks like I cooked the Castle...??? How would I go about testing the resistance on it... I have a multimeter..?? Was thinking of putting a 3660 can in it next, but I think I'll cut my losses and move on..... The resistance of each winding is very low (typ around 20 milliohms) so you can’t do it accurately using the resistance range. You need to connect a 3 or 4 cell lipo (or car battery) in series with a 25-50watt halogen light bulb, ammeter and then connect to any two wires on the motor. You then look at the current flowing and measure the mV across the two motor wires. The resistance is the voltage divided by the current. Repeat for the other motor wires and compare readings. They should all be about the same. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 12 hours ago, PH001 said: The resistance of each winding is very low (typ around 20 milliohms) so you can’t do it accurately using the resistance range. You need to connect a 3 or 4 cell lipo (or car battery) in series with a 25-50watt halogen light bulb, ammeter and then connect to any two wires on the motor. You then look at the current flowing and measure the mV across the two motor wires. The resistance is the voltage divided by the current. Repeat for the other motor wires and compare readings. They should all be about the same. diagram please? thats a lot of stuff happening. as far as i can imagine, put bulbs where the esc should be then measure the voltage across the two motor wires. where does the ammeter go? and i like to learn random stuff so, correct me if im wrong but, this basically shows how much resistance there is by making more electricity flow through the motor via the lightbulb load? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 guys . . . i found a 2s2p lipo pack thats 8000mah . . . . . seems that it fits in the carnage. is this real. its £30. if 5000mah is a good 25 minutes at full power. 8000mah is 60 percent more. maybe 15 minutes more which equates to about 40 minutes of full throttle bashing.thats full throttle. nick has his rc much more tamely set up. he lasts 40 minutes on 5k. so at 8k hed last over an hour. only downside is charge time. i doubt any of us have a 8 amp charger, if nick had that itd be awesome for him because his rc would last longer than itd charge for. seems to good to be true. butt . . . progress does happen eventually. is this progress? whats the drawbacks? Is on amazon ive noticed the battery and charger department of the rc world is weird.all the prices are wack. i dont know whats what. 5000mah can be 50 or 20. what? i got a 5000mah battery off of amazon for 25. and now theres a 8000mah for 35. my 25 experience wasnt so bad. how bad could the 35 be? also chargers are interesting. my 4 amp charger was 40 back when i got it. now for 44 i can get 10 amps of charging? woaw. what a time to be alive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 I know what you mean. I picked up a 6s 4000mah LiPo for £22 the other day...not for the Carnage for obvious reasons, although it would be entertaining for the 6 seconds it’d last. I would be very doubtful with that Amazon LiPo. They can only bend physics so far before actual physical size limits capacity. I would say that for a hardcasd LiPo 6000mah 2s and 50-60c would be the upper capacity limit that would physically fit in a Carnage. I’m not saying it can’t be higher, it’s just I’ve never seen one before from any LiPo manufacture and this thing is 8000mah and 100c?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 3 hours ago, Jamil237237 said: diagram please? thats a lot of stuff happening. as far as i can imagine, put bulbs where the esc should be then measure the voltage across the two motor wires. where does the ammeter go? and i like to learn random stuff so, correct me if im wrong but, this basically shows how much resistance there is by making more electricity flow through the motor via the lightbulb load? Batt +ve __________Ammeter +ve Ammeter -ve _________Bulb +ve Bulb -ve________wire A on Motor (measure +ve volts here) Batt -ve__________________________________________________________________________________wire B on Motor (measure -ve volts here) The bulb is just to limit the current to a safe value. The resistance is given by ohms law: Resistance = Voltage / Current As you are measuring both the voltage and the current above, you can easily derive the resistance of the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamil237237 Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 electricity is dang weird. wouldnt bulbs interfere with their own resistance? and dont they heat up because they have resistance? ah im confused, no point explainiing to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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