FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread

[Nickarla]

Will it make any difference on bad landings, tumblings etc. as this is when I appear to strip the crown.

[Addwhite]

I haven't had much of a chance to run my new fastrax wheels yet. Just a couple of quick runs. They are much firmer than the standard carnage wheels so don't balloon under high rpm's but may suffer over rough ground. We shall see. The handling seems so far to be very similar to my vantage rears that i was running. I had no issues with those ripping gears but these new fastrax wheels are a fair bit bigger. 105mm overall, so maybe the gear gremlins will return lol..... Still smaller than the carnage wheels though. They are around 115mm.

[Addwhite]

Its hard to know realy if running carnage wheels will help over bugsta wheels. It will make it more stable though on turns.

[Nickarla]

Ive just drilled 4 holes into each of my Bugsta tyres and spun it up. The amount of water that flew out was incredible. The wheels are now half the weight and could go some way in explaining some of the issues...hopefully.

[I_amsambo]

Looking at a carnage and was wondering what people’s first things to break were as I will order a few bits and bats as spares 

[Nickarla]

Seems its different for different people. The only plastic item I have had break is the front body post (always cut them down to size otherwise you will break them very often). Most people get through a lot of spur gears but that's only because they don't protect them - I went through one a week until I covered up the holes where stones get in, now Im still on the same one for 2 months.

 

A lot of people get through suspension arm holders, sometimes suspension arms. Bugsta owners seem to get through crown gears. Check the car over when you get them. Both of my FTXs cars had stripped plastics where the factory had tightened the screws too much (replaced under warranty but still a pain as one of them was the gearbox).

 

One other tip is to superglue the e clip onto the servo saver as it pings off all the time. I glued it on but make sure you keep the servo saver upside down for a long time. A minute after I did mine I turned it back the right way. The glue ran down and locked the two pieces together killing my servo the first impact I had.

 

I would also be tempted to shoe goo the shell with plasterers tape. Without it the shell will spontaneously disintegrate the moment it sees a leaf. I did my sons who has jumped it, crashed it, dropped it down a 25ft vertical cliff twice and it is still in one piece.

Edited July 13, 2018 by Nickarla

[Jamil237237]

Alright Bois. I just made an account. I've owned a ftx carnage brushesd for three years I think. I have no clue how much I've actually used it but that doesn't matter.

 

This past month I've ruined 3 brushed motors. 2 stock motors and one etronix sport tuned. The sport tuned is fine except for the plastic end bell that melted. Literally everything else is fine. The two stock motors I got two years ago died. 2 years ago I accidentally bought two replacement motors. One lasted until a month ago. When I got a 2 cell lipo. It burnt the brushes the first day. Then I bought a open end bell motor. Only problem is it was a 540 15t. I assumed it classed 540 because of the end bell not counting (boi was I wrong) and like I said the end bell melted. My spare motor went in. Don't know how many times I drove it. Poof of smoke, why isn't my car moving.

 

Then I fell of my bed, it's like a bunk bed but the bottom bunk is a desk, landed on my carnage. Broke the front body posts. Just the parts where the wholes go in.

 

The body shells rear is missing.

 

I stripped out a spur gear stupidly fast, looked at my pinion gear and noticed the teeth were pointy. 

 

In total two spur gears in a month

 

Got a spare pinion gear that was stuck on the original motor that squealed so godamn loud (that's why it got replaced).The grub screw was stuck in it so I got a soldering iron, soldered a hex bit in it, got it out and tada. Spare pinion. (I also bought a pinion ages ago because that was stuck). I got the same pinion gear stuck on another motor. I can't get the grub out. I'll try again.

 

I lost he black thingy that sits on top of the slipper clutch driveshaft bearing thingy.

 

I have not replaced the shock oil for three years.

 

Or the tires

 

Or oiled anything

 

I replaced the ESC with a 60amp one a while ago because the leads broke on my old one. (I didn't know how to solder back then.)

 

Recently replaced my servo with a savox one. 0.12 response or something and 12kg of force? Since old one just died

 

I also got a lipo, it's kinda caused a mess of the motors.

 

Oh I also made it rwd. I took out the front bar thingies too

And lost them. Took out the centre driveshaft but didn't lose it

 

I recently turned 17. I had this since I was 14, was birthday present. 

Not the best at maintaining, I should get a job but I'm a lazy sack of horse ****.

 

I've been allocated 100 British money. I plan to get a brush less combo and an allooominum spur gear and maybe another pinion gear for spares. Oh **** body posts too.

 

Needa cheap brush less motor and basic tips for my dumb ass. Don't know how fast it was on 2s but I want a bit more speed. I bash a lot. On pavement, on brick roads, on roads, on grass, and some brown rock thingies but I'm too stupid to know what it is so I'll say gravel. Barely jump because I can't find any, but I'd like tips for worst case scenarios.

 

Brush less motors confuse me. I can't find decent sources of info or maybe I'm dumb. There's kV and turns

 More kV more rpm I got that. More turns more torque but less rpm. So do I go for most kV? I see motors with high kV on Amazon that are like under fifty. But I've never heard of the brands before. And I don't know if it'll over heat. What's the trade off? Also etronix motors have an r rating or something. Tf is that?

 

Also should I use modelsport or wheelspin models?

 

Oh and the differential annoys me a lot. It hasn't Brocken or anything. But it's an open diff. All diffs for RC are open. This causes issues of power delivery when sliding, as the useless wheel gets a lot of power. I can live with that but any tips? Heavier weight oil and stuff?

 

Yes I know I'm an idiot. And yes this is an unnecicarily long post.

 

I should just said cheap brush less upgrade for this car and are the Amazon combos that are under fifty worth it?

But where's the fun in that?

 

Sorry in advance

[Nickarla]

I can recommend Modelsport. A very good, knowledgable company with some of the best customer service and after care going.

 

With brushless just look at kv. 3000-4000kv is where you want to be for the Carnage. 3000kv is what the standard brushless Carnage uses but some who want more top speed go to 4000kv.

 

I have a HobbyWing 3300kv and have to gear down with Bugsta wheels (larger than Carnage) as it is too fast for off roading. With use on the road and flat surfaces it’s great. Depending on how much you have to spend will determine whether spendings £90 on a HobbyWing setup from Modelsport is worth it. For me the quality of the gear along with the Modelsport customer service is worth the £40 every day.

[Nickarla]

With the spur gear just get a RW .6 17t. If you want more torque/less top speed go for 15t. If you want it even faster but with lower torque go 19t.

[Jamil237237]

Budget is 100 including body post and pinion gear. My main concern is what's the difference between the hobby wing ones and other brands which are much cheaper?

Like this one https://www.modelsport.co.uk/smd-1-10th-scale-brushless-60a-esc-with-3900kv-sensorless-motor/rc-car-products/425931

 

Durability? Cogging? Torque? I don't k ow if theirs dyno sheets for these.

 

And I'm assuming you mean pinion gear. I drive in grass that goes up to the wheels so I guess I'll stay stock.

 

Tempted to skip 10 pounds and get this instead 

https://www.mmodelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=383632

Edited July 15, 2018 by Jamil237237
New info

[Nickarla]

I haven’t experienced either but the Etronix is a cheaper brand than HobbyWing. It’s 45a compared to the Hobbywings 60a. The HobbyWing is supposedly better at handling cogging. Whether this is true, I can’t say but I can say that the HobbyWing is a good quality item. I don’t know anything about the other one.

 

Sorry, yes I meant pinion gear...not sure why I put spur.

[Addwhite]

For a good 2s combo for under £90 i think the hobbywing ezrun combo's are hard to beat.

You can get the 36-52-3300kv motor or the 36-52-4000kv that would be ok for the carnage. Both combos come with the 60amp esc. If your running in long grass etc i would go for the 3300kv option. Both are on ebay for £85.

The etronix photon stuff is good, i have used photon motors with no issues. They come with 3.5mm connectors though so would recommend changing those to bigger ones. I think you would need the 60amp version of that esc. I have that in my carnage and it performs very well. Doesnt get warm at all. Not sure how the 45amp version would hold up. But if i was starting from scratch i would go with the ezrun combo.

[Nickarla]

Agreed.

but there’s no way I would buy on eBay to save £5 from Modelsport who will give you proper aftersales.

[Addwhite]

Thats true, just checked the price on modelsport and its £89 so nothing in it...and like you say the customer service is superb. I didnt realise they sold the motors without the esc on there.... Now im tempted to try the 4000kv lol.

Will be giving mine a proper run at the weekend with the fastrax wheels. I will report back with hopefully positive results....

[Sloth king steve]

Hi all,

 

Had my carnage for just shy of two weeks now and apart from a chewed spur gear on my second run it's running well. 

 

As expected the pinion gear is starting to wear and I'd like to look at replacing it. Modelsport and RW Racing are both currently out of stock of the RW .6 17t pinion, so my question is... Can I go up or down a to either the 16t or 18t RW pinion with out the need for a different spur ? 

 

Thanks,

Steve. 

[Nickarla]

Yes, no problem. 16t for a fraction more torque/less top speed. 18t for a fraction more top speed/less torque.

I have 12t, 12t, 16t and 18t and just change them around depending on what terrain I’m driving on.

[Nickarla]

On 27/04/2018 at 11:31, Nickarla said:

 

The spur gear is a pain with the FTX models. A lot of people think that when you run brushless the power causes the issues. While I think that is partly true I think it is mainly due to the debris getting in and then getting trapped in the chassis tray. That combined with the extra torque and it doesn't take long to strip when anything larger than a grain of sand gets lodged. I have since made some very simple but effective covers from plastic packaging that has addressed this issue and I have not had any 'nibbled' teeth since and thats with going over some pretty rough and dirty ground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a post I made a few weeks ago regarding the spur gear. A very worthwhile mod. I’m still on the same spur since doing this with no worn teeth at all!

[Addwhite]

Thats a neat little mod.... Thanks for the pics. 

[Sloth king steve]

Cheers, I'll order up a couple different pinion and see how I get on. I'm sure a spare spur won't go a miss too. 

 

I've done a similar mod, I'm currently waiting on some 3D printer parts to swap out form my hand cut part. 

 

I also plugged up the holes on the motor mount, one less thing to let dirt in. 

Edited July 16, 2018 by Sloth king steve
Spelling error

[Nickarla]

Have you done the other other side of the spur as well?

[Sloth king steve]

I have indeed. It's just a temp solution till the prints are done. 

 

I'll upload the files if they fit ok. 

[Nickarla]

Nice one, makes a big difference especially now that the chassis has a plate to cover the spur gear. It seems to collect the stones rather than allowing them to escape. Once a stone gets in there it makes short work of the spur.

[Jamil237237]

6 hours ago, Nickarla said:

Nice one, makes a big difference especially now that the chassis has a plate to cover the spur gear. It seems to collect the stones rather than allowing them to escape. Once a stone gets in there it makes short work of the spur.

I don't know if that was sarcastic or not. Can you specify what you actually meant. I'm confused

[Jamil237237]

Also I'm gonna try something stupid. I have a lot of hot glue and cardboard. You can guess what I'll be up to. Cardboard seems to be good for easy replacement and it's cheap. It breaks easily though. Just like ftx rc's as so they say. How fitting!

 

Only issue is removing the spur gear for whatever reason. Would drilling holes in the plate for 3d parts be a bad idea? And for airtight seals just for the comfort of knowing nothing can get in, would  cut up o rings be a good idea. I'm just making mine out of cardboard, this is just ideas for anyone who's curious.

[Sloth king steve]

I used some sticky back foam over any of the cracks to attempt an "air tight seal" 

 

For my first attempt I think I'll just glue the part in place, see how it fairs. Then maybe look at drilling the body with a couple pozi drive screws in to the printed part.