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FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


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Hooligan wheels will fit nicely. 

 

Can't advise on shocks, I've always been happy with the standard units.

 

Have you tried the aluminium Vantage ones?

 

I will check out the Hooligan wheels. Thanks

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Have you tried the aluminium Vantage ones?

 

I will check out the Hooligan wheels. Thanks

Not the Vantage ones as such, but I have run the Carnage ones, the Quanum Vandal ones and now the Hooligan ones. 

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Okay, I just fitted quite a few new parts, and it's all good so to speak.

 

However, the cheap Aluminium shock absorbers I got from Hobbyking (

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I need help :)

I bought a FTX Carnage brushed 3 weeks ago and today the car was running fine and then a funny rattle noise started coming from the motor.

I removed the motor from the mount and found that under slow acceleration the motor is making a vibrating sound but then on full acceleration the motor stops making the noise and works ok.

I'm new to rc so not sure if this is a broken motor or if it is the gearing? The car has been used a lot over the last 3 weeks. Thanks a lot for your help. Also is it worth just upgrading to a better brushed motor?

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You've run the motor off the mount and it still make the noise? If so it's the motor that's at fault. Contact the seller in the first instance and see if they'll replace it. 

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I contacted the seller and they said I would have to bring it back to them and they will send off to FTX for them to inspect it to see if they would replace under the warranty. Thanks for your reply :) also was thinking of upgrading to a better brushed motor, any suggestions? Thanks again!!

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I'm not sure there is a better one. Try an Etronix 21 turn. The thing with the FTX can is that it's a 550 which means it has the torque of a 21 turn can and the power of a 15 turn can. Whatever you put in is gonna be a compromise unless it's another 550. 

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I see what you mean, will just go with the stock motor and then eventually upgrade it to brushless. At least the brushed stock motors are cheap as chips!!! Thanks for your help :)

No worries mate, they're not bad lil cans, I've abused mine for ages and it just keeps coming back for more. 

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Hi gezz1098

We've had the carnage for the exact amount of time and have the same noise. I'm about to order a new motor but if you get yours replaced under warranty please let me know. I've heard that a fan inside the motor might be damaged - anyone heard of this?

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Hey, it looks like the shop i bought the car from will send the car off to FTX under warrenty which will take a while so I'm going to buy a new motor as there only a tenner and I would not loose much play time then. That's weird that yours has gone too. Have you used it loads since you bought it?

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Hi All

Complete novice here so looking for some advice if I may. Purchased a RTR Vantage Brushless from ModelSport around 4 weeks ago. Great for me as just needed to charge the 2s Lipo, add 8AA batteries for the controller and off I went. I know nothing about cars, adjustments etc etc which is why I purchased one RTR. I found that the drive cup FTX 6273 was coming loose from the drive shaft after its 1st use. On each occasion I have to tighten this up. I've even added threadlock to the grubscrew. I am finding that the 4wd ends up turning into a 2wd almost every time. I have not made any adjustments (because I don't know what I am doing). Am I wrong to think that this shouldn't happen? I can also turn one of the front wheels whilst holding the other wheels? I contacted Modelsport and they've advised adjusting and checking various components. 

Any advice for a novice would be greatly appreciated before sending back to MS for checking over?

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Hi mate, have you made sure that the grub screw is tightened down on to the flat part of the shaft? How long are you leaving the threadlock to cure? When you say you can turn one of the front wheels whilst holding the others is that when in 2wd mode? Is it both front wheels or just one?

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I had this problem when I got mine, it could be another componant causing this, make sure your main drive shaft is not bent our bukled , and that your grub screw is on the flat part of the slipper shaft, look at the car from above and hold one rear wheel wheel turning the other one, and see I've the shaft is straight. Good luck....

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Bit of an update; I've now got all the bits, and I soldered the Deans connector to the ESC, and calibrated the ESC and also programmed it with the Program box (Trackstar 80A ESC).

 

Everything seems okay, I also installed my new shock absorbers from the Durango DEX410, which I must say are quality items, however the fronts are quite short, but just about fit okay.

 

I also had to cut/change/solder the wires on my charger from crocodile clips to bananas, so it would connect to my PSU easier. That went without a hitch too.

 

I had a new Losi 22 rear wing to install too, which whilst better than the stock wing, is still quite flimsy IMHO. I will back order the one on the Quanum Vandal from HK.

 

I just need to tidy up the cables with ties and that's the car virtually sorted, and ready for a test run outside.

 

I did however encounter one issue with my LiPo, which I have no experience with.

 

My LiPo is a Gens Ace 65C 5000Mah 2 cell affair. With my PSU/Charger now running as it should, I decided to charge the LiPo for storage. I selected the correct settings, changed the charge rate, the voltage, and started the charge. Immediately I got an error to do with low voltage, and it didn't charge.

 

I have only used the battery to calibrate and program the ESC, and it is brand new. 

 

Should I contact the vendor, or can I fix it with the NiCad method which I keep reading about? Any help would be appreciated, also what is the best charge rate for my LiPo (I think it is 5A, going with the 1C method)?

 

Thanks in advance.

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Had you charged the pack before setting up the ESC?

If not, you've taken it below storage, which is how they ship.

I have not told you this, but select Nihm mode and 1a and give it 3 minutes max. Don't make a habit of it though.

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No, I couldn't use my charger, due to connection troubles. So the battery was used as is, but it wasn't used for very long, or to consume much current out.

 

Either way, I guess it's struggling.

 

Yes, I've read that elsewhere, I hope it works. I don't want to have to buy another battery already!

 

But, I suppose you learn the hard way with LiPo's!

 

Thanks as always Chewy!

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Hi as mentioned a couple of posts ago Re a really bad clicking sound in the brushed motor. We've received the new motor - is it just a case of swap new for old? Or are there any set/run in / soldering with the new can. Should the heat sink just pull off ? I can't recall if it is actually glued onto the motor . Any tips greatly appreciated before we go ahead with the transplant . Many thanks, Alex

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