Honeybadger Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Just took it out but i dont think i charged the battery properly. it didnt run very well or for long. Need to re read the instructions on the charger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangerman69 Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 What battery and charger Mr Badger ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 it was the battery that came with it, voltz rc 1800 and an X-Charger C6 that i bought at the model shop. also got a logic rc storm 3000mAh, both nimh. tried to cycle the battery and i might have stopped it half way through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tezpellet Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 right you lot, was at the track yesterday with the vantage, was one of those days where everything just slotted into place, amazing day one problem was my nice new carbon chassis snapped ;-( and i bent 5 shock pistons, ive a few on order but getting sick of buying them, i think the metal is a bit too soft, after measuring up what i have which in total now i have 8 front shocks and 4 rear, !!!! the rears are 105mm http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-rear-shocks-complete-2-vantage-carnage/rc-car-products/365739 and the fronts are 95 mm (stock set up) http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-front-shocks-complete-2-vantage-carnage/rc-car-products/365738 any ideas what i coul dreplace them with that is a bit stronger and where i can buy the seperate parts as needed, cheers chaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 They are 100 mm on my Hpi Bullet, dont know if you could use them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonrh Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I was looking at my carnage shocks and suspension last night too. As far as I can see: I can control ride height with the droop screws I can control pre-load with the spring seats As far as I can see, I control the maximum compression position for the suspension using the shock and where it runs out of stroke and goes solid. This can be tweaked a bit using the position on the shock towers but not a whole bunch. The problem I have with this is: If i run with low preload on the suspension to keep the wheels on the ground over small bumps then any really big jumps use up all the suspension travel and bottom out the shocks. On my carnage with the shocks fully compressed and a bit of compression on the tyres (e.g a heavy landing) I can bottom out the chassis on the floor. And that has broken a few things recently. I was wondering about cutting up some small pieces of rubber tube and putting them over the shock shafts so they don't compress so far with the big hits and keep the belly off the floor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tezpellet Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I was looking at my carnage shocks and suspension last night too. As far as I can see: I can control ride height with the droop screws I can control pre-load with the spring seats As far as I can see, I control the maximum compression position for the suspension using the shock and where it runs out of stroke and goes solid. This can be tweaked a bit using the position on the shock towers but not a whole bunch. The problem I have with this is: If i run with low preload on the suspension to keep the wheels on the ground over small bumps then any really big jumps use up all the suspension travel and bottom out the shocks. On my carnage with the shocks fully compressed and a bit of compression on the tyres (e.g a heavy landing) I can bottom out the chassis on the floor. And that has broken a few things recently. I was wondering about cutting up some small pieces of rubber tube and putting them over the shock shafts so they don't compress so far with the big hits and keep the belly off the floor? what shock oil do you have in them ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonrh Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Factory, as shipped currently. I think what I could do with is a really good rising rate effect so the first portion of the travel is soft and reactive but as it begins to bottom out the spring gets much firmer. I currently have a new chassis fitted after cracking the old one on the floor several times, a great dent in my spur gear and scrapes on the motor case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diago999 Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I was looking at my carnage shocks and suspension last night too. As far as I can see: I can control ride height with the droop screws I can control pre-load with the spring seats As far as I can see, I control the maximum compression position for the suspension using the shock and where it runs out of stroke and goes solid. This can be tweaked a bit using the position on the shock towers but not a whole bunch. The problem I have with this is: If i run with low preload on the suspension to keep the wheels on the ground over small bumps then any really big jumps use up all the suspension travel and bottom out the shocks. On my carnage with the shocks fully compressed and a bit of compression on the tyres (e.g a heavy landing) I can bottom out the chassis on the floor. And that has broken a few things recently. I was wondering about cutting up some small pieces of rubber tube and putting them over the shock shafts so they don't compress so far with the big hits and keep the belly off the floor? Simonrh, have a read through this entire thread, there have been many occasions of people using various methods to stop the shock shafts bending, just take a read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonrh Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I kind of hijacked tezpellet's comment there, he has broken bent shocks. My shock are fine but i was wondering if there are better ones out there that might give me the ability to control the travel over their stroke better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tezpellet Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 if your using the shocks as factory then you should invest in some shock oil not sure what it would be for a carnage, but as above have a read through the entire thread it will be a valuable resource to you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diago999 Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Finally i got around to taking the car out! It handles so much better (IMO) with the front to rear mod. It's not as tail happy so you can turn without spinning out all the time at high speed. The shocks are in perfect condition after jumping and smacking it about so there is no risk of damage there from what I have seen. Annoyingly the front shocks are Mashed up. I landed a daft jump wrong and managed to bend both of the front shock shafts. peeved me some what given they were brand new but ho hum lesson learned. Now I have an excuse to strip the Blue off the front ones as i will have to rebuild them any way. The shock shafts are only about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonrh Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Might be the same fix for both of us then! Thanks for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I used associated 50 wt oil and placed an o ring and m3 washer three times ending with an oring under the piston then popped em back in the shock bodys.I also did this after noticing the cvd travel problem on my sons carnage.It handles well both on and off road now,and i cut a small peice of 2mm corbon plate and used it to cover bottom hole in chassis to protect the spur gear from impacts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke662 Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 I haven't been one here is a while. It's crazy to see that what started as my project has turned into a 119 pages and people are still quoting my mods. Glad they are helping you all out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tezpellet Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I haven't been one here is a while. It's crazy to see that what started as my project has turned into a 119 pages and people are still quoting my mods. Glad they are helping you all out maybe this it the biggest hijacked thread !!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke662 Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 It got pretty popular when I started so edited the beginning to a share your thoughts type thing. I didn't think people on here thought about things all that much hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonrh Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 An observation (certainly on the carnage anyway) is that people seem to take a slightly perverse satisfaction with these in the fact that bits do break off and need fixing and that things do need fettling and setting up to get them to work right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tezpellet Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 An observation (certainly on the carnage anyway) is that people seem to take a slightly perverse satisfaction with these in the fact that bits do break off and need fixing and that things do need fettling and setting up to get them to work right. i think that the case with every car, thats why i like it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrolami Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Just spent an hour fitting the new metal spur gear to the Carnage. I had a complete new setup spare so was able to assemble it prior to stripping the car down. Once back together I tested it by holding rye car while I opened the throttle and much to my surprise (and after a particular noise became louder) I stripped the brass pinion gear on the motor. I also got a face full of brass shavings I did notice the pinion gear was quite worn before I started all this so I think that's why it failed. I have the 23t vantage pinion on it temporarily, however this makes the car overheat when on a beasting of a run, so I think I will be looking for a harder wearing pinion gear.Anyone know the pitch of the FTX gear? Looking at a Traxxas one on eBay which has a 32 pitch... Looks reasonable enough. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TinVin Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 (edited) Carnage/Vantage is Mod 0.6 I know this cos I bought mod 48 by mistake. Edited August 9, 2013 by TinVin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 I took the car out earlier so my boy could have a proper go but we had a few problems. This is my first hobby type electric car so i dont know whats normal and whats not. To start with on the 1800 battery is ran really slow and wouldnt accelarate properly, was really jerky, then the battery was flat within 5 mins. So i put the other 3000 battery in and it was a bit quicker but still jerky. I changed the transmitter batterys incase thats caused it but made no difference. So i dont know what caused it to run like that. Also it was alot slower than i expected but i dont know if i was just the difference between a brushed car and my nitro. Im thinking a pair of decent 4 or 5000 batteries will help but i dont know is the other things are normal or not for a brand new car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Does the motor have to run in like an engine would? The batteries got really hot too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangerman69 Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 If you are used to nitro it will seem slow compared to what you are used to. The ESC could be up the swanny. I know a couple of people who had the brushed versions which were duff out of the box. I would try and get it swapped if different batteries dont help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangerman69 Posted August 9, 2013 Share Posted August 9, 2013 Does the motor have to run in like an engine would? The batteries got really hot too Some people used to condition the motor by running it underwater in the old days but that was for race spec stuff not stock 540's to be honest. The batteries can get a bit warm but not super hot. Something could be binding have you checked the gap between spur and pinion as a rough rule of thumb you should be able to slide a piece of paper between the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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