AlexM Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 Is there a budget brushless setup someone can recommend to upgrade a Brushed Carnage? (I realise this may have come up earlier in the thread.. somewhere). The eldest has a brushed Carnage, which is his first proper RC, and honestly he's doing much better with it than I expected - now he wants to drive my Savage XS all the time. I'd prefer he have something a little faster and leave my Savage to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_UK_007 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 I'd recommend DONT USE AN ELECTRIC. You'll strip threads left right and centre, do it the 'old fashioned' way by hand so you can feel when things get tight. A lot of the small fixings will strip easy enough by hand before putting electric power on them Good point. I need to invest in a non elec screwdriver then I guess. I'm using allen keys atm and it's a pain in the a 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 your LHS should have some decent hex or allen drivers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadleg Roberts Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 Hobbyking do brushless ESC and motor sets. The ESC looks very similar to the one that comes in the Carnage. Quite cheap too. May be worth checking those out before looking at something more expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 (edited) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__29642__Turnigy_TrackStar_1_10th_Scale_60A_Car_ESC_Version_2_UK_Warehouse_.html http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27860__Turnigy_Trackstar_1_10_10T_3900KV_Brushless.html Is what I'm going to put in my Carnage. The speedo is on backorder at the UK warehouse atm though. It's also worth getting one of these, it makes programming so much easier: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14631__Turnigy_TrackStar_ESC_Programing_Card.html I'm running the above combo in my Baja and it's proved faultless so far Edited April 28, 2014 by chewbacca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Virdi Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 (edited) Hi all, I have LRP Blast buggy which I believe is almost identical. I have noticed that the rear diff is really noisy and the spur gear really wobbles and has slight play in it ....is this normal? What can I do to fix or improve this please. Thanks Edited April 28, 2014 by Virdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Strip and clean the diff and tighten the slipper clutch. Pop the Spur out and check it for wear etc before adjusting the slipper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 It's been a busy evening, new front diff is in and running smooth, ear dog ones straightened out and I finally finished the Chevy truck body to go on there. The pics are just uploading to my flickr and she'll need a new rear diff before going for a serious bash. Fitting a new front one has just highlighted the racket coming out of the rear one lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 Can't get it to link on my iPad with embedding, here's a linky link https://www.flickr.com/photos/tom_allsopp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 oops, I might have burnt out a motor running a 21T pinion. shopping time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 oops, I might have burnt out a motor running a 21T pinion. shopping time! 21t is a bit big for Carnage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 i might mean 19, thinking bout it. Anyway, the motor is dead so as I recently put in a waterproof servo. I might go for one of these http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-ezrun-combo-sc-c2-4000kv-sc8-waterproof/rc-car-products/376989 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 excellent choice! But get it from here: http://www.rcecho.com/HOBBYWING-EZRUN-3656-4000KV-RC-Brushless-Motor-WP-SC8-120A-ESC-Combo-ME178.html You save a good chunk of money that you can now spend on other goodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saloon22 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Having a bit of bother with steering.when you turn right the servo doesn't come back to zero position .disconnected servo and it zeros when not connected.all joints seem to be free from binding . Any help please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Probabaly just the servo no being able to push the wheels back to dead centre because it's not strong enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I picked up a waterproof turnigy one from the bay for about 15quid that was way more KG than the standard one, works a treat and steers a lot more direct. I'm running a large thick washer instead of the e-clip in the servo saver too so I have the right spring compression against the top plate but it's impossible for a washer to decide to leave like my e-clips always did 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 i might mean 19, thinking bout it. Anyway, the motor is dead so as I recently put in a waterproof servo. I might go for one of these http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-ezrun-combo-sc-c2-4000kv-sc8-waterproof/rc-car-products/376989 well the new bits arrived! fitted them last night and once programmed and calibrated. Took it out in the street for a test run and BLIMEY that's a bit quicker, puchier, stops better, doesnt cog at low speed, runs quieter. but.................. managed to stack it within a couple of minutes and demolish a lower arm so she's been rebuilt last night and if I pass a cricket field at work today, I'm stopping to open the taps. I also picked up a 3s but I'm too scared to put it in yet lol. it's savage on 2s with the new esc and motor Oh and I got a HPI mini recon 1:18th for the gf/myself on the same order and this little thing is such a laugh! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devin Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Just a quick running video of my FTX Vantage on road hope you enjoy please give feed back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilsome Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Just spent the last week going through all these pages! I bought my 9 year old the brushed version and he has already reached the limits of the brushed version at the local downhill track and bings. We've ordered the swaybars but would like some more low / mid torque and a generally faster motor for the brushed version - any recommendations? And we have the carnage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilsome Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Back again! Excuse last nights garbled message - alcohol and all that. we have lost 4wd: Nearside front left wheel spins by itself as if not attached to cvd. When spinning nearside front right cvd spins ok. But when accelerating neither spin. Rear works fine when driving although by hand seems clunky/ grindy. Can anyone help me out here please :] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devilsome Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 oh and driveshaft is moving okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cagethunder Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Took the carnage out for the first time this year. Had a bit of a crash and flipped it. Time for a new shell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Back again! Excuse last nights garbled message - alcohol and all that. we have lost 4wd: Nearside front left wheel spins by itself as if not attached to cvd. When spinning nearside front right cvd spins ok. But when accelerating neither spin. Rear works fine when driving although by hand seems clunky/ grindy. Can anyone help me out here please :] sounds like your diffs to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 took the carnage out today wearing its 'sunday best' body for a bash with the gf and "her" mini recon. Up at ham hill in somerset. Nice huge open space, soft short grass with plenty of open flat space, hills and bumps in places etc. She was running well and all was good so I thought I'd be brave and slip in the 3s. well........... the slipper slipped a lot and I didnt have my tools with me so I only gave it a quick run being gentle with the throttle. Easing up the speed to minimise the slippage and OH BLIMEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it's absolutely nuts running a hobbywing 4000kv motor and esc combo on 3s! Took it home and tightened the slipper RIGHT UP and it still slips, think the gasket/friction plates might be done for. I did manage a few speed runs out on the road and it must be getting somewhere over 40 if not towards 50mph. I really need to get it to an airfield and on my tarmac tyres and do some speed runs. I'm thinking of making a locked clutch from spares/broken bits that I have lying about and seeing how that destroys other drive components. Has anyone tried it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonrh Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Back again! Excuse last nights garbled message - alcohol and all that. we have lost 4wd: Nearside front left wheel spins by itself as if not attached to cvd. When spinning nearside front right cvd spins ok. But when accelerating neither spin. Rear works fine when driving although by hand seems clunky/ grindy. Can anyone help me out here please :] The little pin inside the cvd at the wheel end can shear or come out. Outwardly looks fine but has come adrift inside. The giveaway is that the driveshaft goes round with the diff but all the power gets dumped to the wheel with the broken pin. You can buy them or make them if it is that and stick an oring over the top to keep them in if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.