Deadleg Roberts

Looks like they are cheap for a reason. Mine came undone on the second run, mainly on the front wheels with the extra turning forces. Another problem I had was that there are internal spokes which caught on the steering hubs on full lock. I had to mill them out so they didn't catch. I saw Doddy had this problem on his Hobao but used extender stubs.

Nice. Not had mine offroad really since December. Just too wet. Watch those bearings - a few of mine seized up with muddy water. Is it all stock?

Is it me, or do the smaller hobby stores seem to be slow in embracing brushless technology? They usually have plenty of nitro, with HPI seeming to be the dominant brand around my area, but they don't seem to carry the range of brushless. This is especially true for 1/8th scales. Cheaper 1/10th brushless and brushed are usually stocked but not the bigger cars. I'm not dissing nitros, and I must point out that I have never owned one. However, I have known a few people who owned them and simply had too many problems, not known how to fix them, so gave up the hobby. Obviously for an experienced Nitro owner maintenance and tuning would not be so much of a problem. Brushless seem to be pretty much plug in and play. Brushless conversions are pretty popular aswell, so that speaks volumes. Anyone noticed this? Is it the initial cost, or simply tradition?

I went into my local hobby shop and asked if he had any shims......... He looked at me as if I was asking fro Plutonium! Where did you get those shims from, EVSSV, if I may ask? I still have play on the MT4 rear... (Sorry for the thread hijack)

Guys, I have been having a bit of trouble getting hold of specific CA /tyre glue. I hate to say but my local model shops are clueless and have never heard of it! One said people just use regular DIY superglue. Should I go to the local DIY store or order some proper stuff? Thanks again....

I don't use WD40 generally anymore. It leaves an oily residue, can get smelly, and can even start to dissolve plastics. GT85 is better and leaves a Teflon coating. However, WD40 is useful for cleaning metal parts and taking off surface rust. Just don't spray willy nilly all over.

Interesting thread. I will look forward to seeing a YouTube vid. As for me, parts support would now be top of my list.

So I managed to balance the new wheels and tyres using blu-tack, but unfortunately the second run out one managed to pop off the rim. These are the 1/8th Nanda/Core small blocks on black dish wheels. Any recommendations for glueing them back down? Do I need a special glue or can I use something from round the house? Thanks.

Something wrong there if you have gone through 3 spur gears. The MT4 G3 comes with a plastic spur and really has more force going through it on account of the bigger wheels and extra weight. Mine is showing very little wear after 2 years. Metal gears are very loud. Setting the mesh correctly is vital also and is a compromise between a tiny bit of play and not too much that the teeth aren't meshing enough. Tight motor screws are essential. By the way, where are you getting your TT parts from?

A Core or Overlander 4 button charger will be a good choice for indoor charging.

A Turnigy or Zippy from Hobbyking will work fine. You just got to be careful that the leads don't sprout from the top centre as this is where the battery holder clamps down. I was using a Turnigy 5000mah, 60c, hardcase in my Carnage. If I was buying again I would probably go for a softcase as they are a bit cheaper and I have never had any problems with damage to the case. Edit. The only problem with Hobbyking batteries is that you need to solder a connector on, unless you take it to your local hobby store. This can add extra costs if you don't have soldering equipment.

Kind of in two minds about this release. Its great to see the Optima again, and it was always a nice car. I preferred the Kyoshos to Tamiyas, they seemed to be much better engineered. However, it was succeeded by the Turbo and Salute, and then on to the Mids and LWB mids, which also used a belt drive system. And then by the Lazer series. So, it is old technology and one wonders whether the asking price is a bit steep. You could get a 4wd 1/8th buggy for that. I guess each person will know if they want one or not. It sounds like it could handle a modern brushless system aswell. Its good to allow newbies to the hobby to see some old classics reborn. Looking forward to seeing the reviews on YouTube. Edit, just noticed the kit includes both chain and belt drive systems, That's interesting. Modelsport listing it at £299 on order with supplier.

Hi guys, I am looking to balance my wheels and tyres and have heard of people using 'putty'. Can anyone be more specific as to what products are effective? Thanks.

GT85 is ace. And smells lovely! WD40 will do a decent job but I find it leaves an oily residue that can get smelly.

Similar story with Thunder Tiger........

Nice. Thunder Tiger seem to do a lot of business in Australia.

Ah well, probably wise to have a spare diff anyway. I didn't have problems with ball bearings or diff assemblies on my Carnage, but a drive cup coming from the diff sheared in half. You have to get used to doing repairs with FTX.

Hi guys, I'm liking the truggy look and thinking of converting my MT4 to ST4 type. The main part I think I need is the rear wing extension/assembly and then obviously the wing and a Proline Bulldog. I already got the Badland wheels and tyres. However, with TT parts thin on the ground now would the wing assembly still be available anywhere? Also, would I need any more body mount parts for the Bulldog? Thanks. Also, on the subject of the MT4, has anyone successfully managed to eliminate the slop from the rear wheels? It has always bugged me and I am wondering if the stub axles can be shimmed out. Thanks.

It will be the same set as the Carnage so should be easily found. Are you sure the bearings have disintegrated and not just needing servicing?

You will be lucky to find anywhere that isn't knee-deep in water for the next month or so!

Cool. That M-spec MBX7 eco is actually not bad at under £350. Maybe an older model though..

I have never heard any bad about the Mugens. Do they stock them anywhere in the UK?

The ACE Cougar radio is adequate for a RTR. I have one on the MT4 and it has never given me any problems. I made the mistake of racing my new Sabre buggy on the road and broke a bunch of stuff on my first crash.

If you are using it on the road you are bound to break stuff. Tarmac is not kind to RC cars if they flip.

Arrma Kraton would probably be on my list if I were buying. MT4 is great, but TT need to get their imports and distribution sorted. The new Krock looks interesting if they start to stock in the UK again.