randomsnapper Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 (edited) are you using the indestructible spur that's no longer available? Basically I'm holding off using harder pinions because it's a lot easier to change a stripped pinion than a spur and I'm worried that a hardened steel pinion will just chew the spur and result in a longer rebuild Edited April 8, 2014 by randomsnapper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Nope, just the stock one. If the mesh is right, the slipper is well set and the motor screws are tight the spur shouldn't be under anymore threat from a hardened pinion as a stock one. As for changing the spur, it's not that complicated a job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Hi all, first time posting here. I've read some of the thread but haven't found anyone with my problem (typical!). I've had a brushless Carnage for a week now and have been having problems with the drive shaft. The pin sheared completely off of the original one at the front, so I just fitted a new one, however after a brief (5 min) run around, the pin at the rear had been pushed all the way through to one side, so much so that it was impeding on the motor casing and battery, leaving marks on both! After pushing it back through, I used electrical tape around the cup, so that it couldn't be pushed out easily (the shaft could still 'float' backwards and forwards). I also reduced the spring on the slipper clutch to see if it would help, but after another brief stint, the pin is again being pushed through one side with so much force that it's almost through the electrical tape! I cannot figure out where the force is coming from to do this, any help would be much appreciated! Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Is the front end binding at all? Come to think of it, check both diffs are running free. That's the only thing I can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Both diffs seem fine (with my limited knowledge), there's no grinding or binding, I sprayed some lube in them yesterday too. Is there any chance that the pins in the shafts just aren't fixed very well and the pins are spinning out by themselves? I've put a couple layers of tape around the cup now, I just don't want to have to replace the shaft every time I use the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boffy999 Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Do you mean like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) Yes, that's what happened to the original driveshaft at the front. However, now it's the rear of the shaft that the pin is pushing out of. Edited April 9, 2014 by Mmmmays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Hmmmmmm. Confuzzled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 I've further released the slipper clutch, it seems it was tightened fully when it arrived, how many threads should be visible (rear-side of the nut)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boffy999 Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Yes, that's what happened to the original driveshaft at the front. However, now it's the rear of the shaft that the pin is pushing out of. Yeah I've had this a couple of times now!! I think there just poor quality parts as it happens over time no instantly if ya know what I mean!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Perhaps I've been unlucky with this shaft then and the pin wasn't properly attached. Could a metal glue be used on the pins to make sure they don't go anywhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boffy999 Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 cant see why a little clue wont hurt! wish I had before I put my last one in. ive done few changes to the vantage metal spur, changed the shaft, cantage front bumper, carnage shell posts and carnage shell now its a cantage and its amazing bit of a hybrid but goes like a stabbed rat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Mine did that with its first driveshaft, hasn't done it since though. It's started pushing the e-clip out of the servo saver now though, just lost two having a bash in the street. I'm thinking I might be able to space the spring down with a couple of washers placed over the shot from above so the spring sites against the washers where the eclip was. This has only happened since I put on proper street tyres though, hmmmmmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 My e-clip keeps sliding forward too. I'm keeping an eye on it. As for the slipper clutch, not a clue lol. Not too tight, not too loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Well, the washer fix seems to work fine but I'll now be waiting to get hold of a new pinion and spur having stripped them on the trial run. Grrrrrrrr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Does anyone know the teeth numbers for the pinion and spur on a carnage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boffy999 Posted April 9, 2014 Share Posted April 9, 2014 Carnage pinion 17t Spur is 65t 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 (edited) Well, after a ~90 second run yesterday, a well placed stick managed to break the steering ackerman and front suspension holders. So in the week I've had the car, I've not even run the battery flat . As such, I'll be fixing it up and selling it to buy something more sturdy, so heads up if you'd like one for a good price (PM me). Question: MSUK show that there are medium and small body clips available, which size is the original? Edited April 10, 2014 by Mmmmays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 More sturdy = more expense when fixing. Don't let a few breakages put you off so quickly. Carnage ownership can be very rewarding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Thanks chewbacca, I'm new to RC's and really love driving them, so when it's out of action it really hurts, especially as I've not yet had a real long drive! I'll have a few more sleeps before I decide fully. A couple questions: - Do you know which size clips I should order to hold the body shell on (small or medium)? - The suspension geometry seems odd on mine, one wheel on the front seems to have more toe out, is that adjustable? Any help is much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Yeah, I know what you mean, I was the same when I only had the one! Hell, I'm still the same now! It's never nice when they're not running. But the sense of achievement when you pull the throttle trigger for the first time after fixing them overrides the feeling of loss when they break. Just remember these four words: BASH, BREAK, REPAIR, REPEAT I'd go for these: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-body-clip-medium-size-6-/rc-car-products/378694 To adjust the toe-in just twist the metal section of the steering rod on the dodgy side. You might find it easier to take both steering rods off and make them the same length. I think the manual has the measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Face. Palm. It didn't even occur to me that you could adjust the length of the rods, I'll have a look in the manual - cheers for your help and supportive words Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 (edited) I can't figure how to remove the centre 'cup' that attaches the front diff to the driveshaft, I gave it a good tug but it wouldn't budge - am I missing something? Another thing I noticed was that the main gear in the diff didn't seem to be parallel to the casing, I'm possible being completely paranoid, but I'd like someone to put my mind at rest! Pic here: http://imgur.com/hhOTHKS.jpg Edited April 10, 2014 by Mmmmays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomsnapper Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Carnage pinion 17t Spur is 65t Thanks matey, I'm going to have a look at trying to find something equivalent as there are no more indestructible ones from daveyboi. If I find something metal that fits easy with pinion to match, I'll post it up here of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TinVin Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 I can't figure how to remove the centre 'cup' that attaches the front diff to the driveshaft, I gave it a good tug but it wouldn't budge - am I missing something? Centre cups are held in with e-clips, afraid you'll have to open the diff up to remove, however you can then investigate what's going on with your diff spur. Regarding durability of the carnage yes it isn't very tough and things do break more often than other more expensive cars, but I do drive it like I stole it and all damage I've done has been my own fault. Last night I was racing with a maverick xt and a fluxed savage xl and carnage was the only car able to be driven back to house though. The xl's gearbox had turned into a glitter yogurt! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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