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Hyper ST Owners Thread


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10 minutes ago, Pistonhead said:

Just the rx/battery box at the rear end - not the entire tray. 

 

Can't say anything about the vs tbh as not had any experience with them. But then it's not an expensive thing to buy and find it doesn't fit.

 

:thumbsup:

 

Easy option for OP to compare the part numbers in the manuals for the VS and TQ2 - nice little saving if there the cheapest options (although I didn't check MS etc from the price of the rx box on it's own - some things are surprisingly reasonable from the LHS).

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all, 

New around here!!

 

I own a hyper st pro, driving it for 3 years now, but time is tight and I'm thinking in doing a conversion to brushless, as I love this truggy and don't want to depart from it.

Main reason is that electric is more plug and play than nitro, sometimes I have just half an hour but not enough for all the tune and after run maintenance... 

 

Few questions to get me started:

1- wich conversion kit fit better?

2- can I keep the existing steering servo or I need a new one? 

3- wich range of power (Kv) I need to look at?

4- with the conversion, do I need to remove the nitro brakes?

 

Thanks in advance for any answer 

Edited by GM80
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1 hour ago, GM80 said:

Hi all, 

New around here!!

 

I own a hyper st pro, driving it for 3 years now, but time is tight and I'm thinking in doing a conversion to brushless, as I love this truggy and don't want to depart from it.

Main reason is that electric is more plug and play than nitro, sometimes I have just half an hour but not enough for all the tune and after run maintenance... 

 

Few questions to get me started:

1- wich conversion kit fit better?

2- can I keep the existing steering servo or I need a new one? 

3- wich range of power (Kv) I need to look at?

4- with the conversion, do I need to remove the nitro brakes?

 

Thanks in advance for any answer 

 

1: Don't bother - get the Hyper SS / VS motor mount (at least until member MFP here makes some more of his custom mounts ;) ) and the Losi 8eu battery tray - cost is similar and it's a far better conversion.  Losi battery tray will take upto a 6S brick - the kit ones struggle with big 4S packs. 

2. Yes - you just chop the tray down to remove the throttle servo mounts

3: 1600kv - 2200kv though depending on how many cells you want to run will dictate what you end up with.  1800-2000kv will allow flexibility to run 4/5/6S with a good motor - I found 1800kv worked very well and 5S the sweet spot for my needs.

4: You'll need to remove the throttle/brake servo, so thus the brakes are redundant and best removed (5mins job).

 

 

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Thanks capri-boy,

 

Will look around and start working on it.

May take some time as I'm quite busy but I do enjoy working on the truggy!! 

 

Hobbyking sell cheap 2050 & 2150 Kv brushless combos... Any good or is to avoid?

 

Cheers 

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8 minutes ago, GM80 said:

Thanks capri-boy,

 

Will look around and start working on it.

May take some time as I'm quite busy but I do enjoy working on the truggy!! 

 

Hobbyking sell cheap 2050 & 2150 Kv brushless combos... Any good or is to avoid?

 

Cheers 

 

There motor's aren't bad at all, though the ESC's are a bit risky.  I ran one of there 120a waterproof combo's in the St Pro for a little while - it was 'ok' but nothing special - many report that esc has a tendency to vent without reason.  There Genii esc's are rebranded SKY RC ones and thus pretty good - there other 1/8 ones - the Beast and X car are both received badly.

 

If you only plan on running 4S then the Hobbywing wpsc8 will do you - it's cheap via ebay from HK or China.  4S is ok int he ST Pro, though you'll likely find it underwhelming top end compared to the Nitro.  Personally I'd source the Hobbywing quicrun 150a 6S esc even if only running 4S as it gives headroom and the opportunity to try 5/6s should you change your mind...  Motor wise just make sure it's at least  4074 size (not 4068 buggy sized) and within the KV range above - though 1800-2000kv will suit most needs.

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Double post but worth a share - Hyper ST Pro kit bodyshell (so uncut afaik) for sale on fleabay:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HoBao-Hyper-ST-PRO-Clear-Body-Shell-Bodyshell-for-Nitro-Inc-Stickers-Cage-bar-/131883791658?hash=item1eb4e2f52a:g:5PUAAOSwzchXRNUC

 

They don't come up very often, and had I still had an ST Pro - E this would be on route to me ten minutes ago.

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Nice one, will make it look new!!

 

I've found this motor mount and bought it for £17.22 -

 

http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32572140466.html?productId=32572140466&productSubject=1-8-rc-car-off-road-vehicles-Truck-Nitro-change-brushless-perfect-motor-mounting-holder-Kyosho&tracelog=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail

 

The interesting thing that won me over is in the pictures of the description it is installed in a hyper St pro!! Looks it fit fine, so will see when it arrives... 

 

Cheers 

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Hi guys, 

 

Sorry for what would seem a stupid question, but I'm trying to get it right and I'm a newbie in electric... 

 

I'm planning to get a hobbywing quicrun 150A & 2000KV combo, it may be a bit of a overkill, but the hyper st pro it's on the heavy side of truggy's so I want to play safe.

 

I'm thinking in getting 2 batteries and use them separately, once at the time, to have more bashing/run time.

 

What kind of battery's will give me around 15/20 min run (if at all possible...)? 4/5 S? What about mah? Will the discharge ratio affect noticeable the run time or only the power on the throttle? 

 

Thanks for your help, and sorry if it's a numb question, but searched online and a lot of different opinions...

 

GM80

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On 8/13/2016 at 17:01, GM80 said:

Nice one, will make it look new!!

 

I've found this motor mount and bought it for £17.22 -

 

http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32572140466.html?productId=32572140466&productSubject=1-8-rc-car-off-road-vehicles-Truck-Nitro-change-brushless-perfect-motor-mounting-holder-Kyosho&tracelog=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail

 

The interesting thing that won me over is in the pictures of the description it is installed in a hyper St pro!! Looks it fit fine, so will see when it arrives... 

 

Cheers 

 

Hmmm - looks interesting.  Price wise it's a good £10 cheaper than the Hyper SS mount that's usually used.  Has it arrived yet?  Hard to tell from pics if it's cast or cnc cut.

 

46 minutes ago, GM80 said:

Hi guys, 

 

Sorry for what would seem a stupid question, but I'm trying to get it right and I'm a newbie in electric... 

 

I'm planning to get a hobbywing quicrun 150A & 2000KV combo, it may be a bit of a overkill, but the hyper st pro it's on the heavy side of truggy's so I want to play safe.

 

I'm thinking in getting 2 batteries and use them separately, once at the time, to have more bashing/run time.

 

What kind of battery's will give me around 15/20 min run (if at all possible...)? 4/5 S? What about mah? Will the discharge ratio affect noticeable the run time or only the power on the throttle? 

 

Thanks for your help, and sorry if it's a numb question, but searched online and a lot of different opinions...

 

GM80

 

That depends a lot on your driving style.  Higher C batteries in theory will last no longer, though in reality lower C rated ones dip below LVC under load sooner than higher rated ones, so run time is a little less.  For the system you've specced you need a battery than can provide a minimum of 150a continuous - so 5000mah batt's of 30C, 4000mah of 37.5C etc.  You should certainly notice, side by side, the difference of a higher C battery - there much punchier, hit LVC later due to less sag as above and many find they last longer - prob a result of not being stressed as much.

 

Prices used to dictate that racers had High C ratings, bashers had high mah - nowadays LIPO prices are so much better then i'd always recommend getting the biggest capacity with the biggest C rating you can afford.  A slightly fussier option but with great rrunning flexibility would be to buy matching (capacity and C rating) 2S and 3S packs as then have the option of trying 4/5 or 6S.  Personally I found, for bashing, 5S the sweet spot in 1/8 Truggy conversions 9I ran an ST Pro and currently use an X1 CRT).

 

Hope that helps. 

 

 

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Left rear universal shaft is coming out and gets bent on my brushless ST Pro.

 

I have universals front and rear and was trying to check if they are the right way round

 

The front ones are black in colour and have thicker shafts than the rear ones which are silver. The rear ones are longer than the front.

 

Do I have them the right way round?

 

 

 

 

Edited by locky
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17 minutes ago, locky said:

Left rear universal shaft is coming out and gets bent on my brushless ST Pro.

 

I have universals front and rear and was trying to check if they are the right way round

 

The front ones are black in colour and have thicker shafts than the rear ones which are silver. The rear ones are longer than the front.

 

Do I have them the right way round?

 

 

 

 

 

From memory that sounds right, esp rears being longer than fronts - though also from memory the manual states the lengths so it's worth checking there.  Are you running stock shocks?  When I ran Hong Nor bog Bores on mine they allowed slightly too much downwards travel of the arms.  They didn't cause an issue when bashing on the flat but when jumping on the track the neg g forces  meant the arms travelled a bit too far and a front UJ popped out.  Mostly solved using the droop screws though longer term I planned on using shock limiting cables so as not to have to mess the geometry up with the droop set up.

 

 

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Thinking about converting 2nd ST and was looking at 4074 1700kv black can motor. Not sure on gearing on 4S.

 

It's using losi zombie maxx tyres on maximizer beadlocks which are very heavy. The beadlocks run ok with nitro and have used them brushless so hope they hold up.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 17/08/2016 at 08:20, locky said:

 

Good find, ordered this one 16USD.

 

Received mount from aliexpress, but it wont fit as the diff bearing hole is off centre to the screws, which misaligns the diff. Not sure how they got it to fit as they showed pics of it installed on a ST. The front centre diff mount is not standard from what I can see. 

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Hi Locky,

 

I've got mine too, but not tried yet to fit it... Really disappointing if will not fit...

 

I'm quite busy now, so I don't think will be able to work on it for a few weeks...

 

Will keep you posted.

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4 minutes ago, GM80 said:

I've got mine too, but not tried yet to fit it... Really disappointing if will not fit...

 

I think you need the diff mount that they supply. I just got the mount on its own and now they have no stock.

 

Trying to identify the diff mount as think it maybe Kyosho.

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1 hour ago, GM80 said:

I've got mine too, but not tried yet to fit it... Really disappointing if will not fit...

 

The only way is to drill two new holes in the chassis to get the correct diff alignment, not something I want to do at this stage.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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