stormchaser Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 stock gearing then, check your mesh binding when turning the wheels, did the esc flash 'thermal protection' when it cut out? I checked the gear mesh and that did seem to tight so I reset that which did'nt change anything. Cant be sure if the esc flashed when it cut out I would have to check again. Do you think the esc needs replacing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Relativenewbyseb Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 Nah painted all on the inside although it doesn't show through aswell as hoped as I let my mum and dad drive it the other weekend and they battered the shell! wheelarches and rear body post holes are all reinforced with glue and plastic but did it before I decided to repaint itSent from my LT30p using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormchaser Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 stock gearing then, check your mesh binding when turning the wheels, did the esc flash 'thermal protection' when it cut out? Had another look at the fs today and same thing again, got hot within a couple of mins and started to stutter constantly, then all of a sudden would shoot off as normal until letting go of the trigger then when applying trigger again it would stutter again. After a short time of this when applying the trottle forwards it would not stutter at all and not move either and the esc would flash green when trying to go forwards or flash red when trying to go backwards. When the esc flashes I guess that's the thermal protection? The way the motor stutters I'm thinking it's a motor fault which is making everything get hot and then the esc cuts out, does this sound likely or has anyone else had the same problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Sounds a bit like my sc8 when the lipo cutoff was set to high so the battery had to take a bit of time to recover after full throttle before taking off again? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samuran Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Yeah sounds similar to issues I've had in the past with LVC and batteries not being up to the job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Had another look at the fs today and same thing again, got hot within a couple of mins and started to stutter constantly, then all of a sudden would shoot off as normal until letting go of the trigger then when applying trigger again it would stutter again. After a short time of this when applying the trottle forwards it would not stutter at all and not move either and the esc would flash green when trying to go forwards or flash red when trying to go backwards. When the esc flashes I guess that's the thermal protection? The way the motor stutters I'm thinking it's a motor fault which is making everything get hot and then the esc cuts out, does this sound likely or has anyone else had the same problem? what batteries you using? esc flashing explenations can be found in the manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormchaser Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 what batteries you using? esc flashing explenations can be found in the manual? I am using a turnigy 2s lipo 3600 mah 30/40c discharge and a overlander 3s lipo 4250 mah 30/c discharge 50c burst. I have only tried the 3s once as will mostly be using the 2s but its the same on both batteries.I will have to have a look in the manual again but didnt find anything last time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Are these worth getting? Great price for this weekend: http://www.jemodels.com/index.php?app=gbu0&ns=prodshow&ref=HPI-HPI104898 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 great price but personally i never broke a rear hub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Are these worth getting? Great price for this weekend: http://www.jemodels.com/index.php?app=gbu0&ns=prodshow&ref=HPI-HPI104898 no the fs doesn't need alloy bits, remember alloy bends plastic flex's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmmmays Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 (edited) Yeah heard that before stretch, they're just so.. shiny. What's the best way of reducing motor heat, i'm running stock everthing and a 5200mah 2s and I can only hold the motor for ~4s after a good run. I know there's a heat cutoff, but I don't want it too hot, as I'd like to go 3s in the future Edited May 2, 2014 by Mmmmays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Relativenewbyseb Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Getting about 43mph now with my new motor :-D with 3s, standard gearing, quicrun 3800kv motor and etronix photon esc So much cooler and quicker than when running the 13t etronix 380 finned motor in it Sent from my LT30p using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Yeah heard that before stretch, they're just so.. shiny. What's the best way of reducing motor heat, i'm running stock everthing and a 5200mah 2s and I can only hold the motor for ~4s after a good run. I know there's a heat cutoff, but I don't want it too hot, as I'd like to go 3s in the future get yourself an IR heat gun to see what the temperature is, you can get a heatsink for the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 depends on the dimensions of the battery mate, is it 2s or 3s? I use a mix of 2s & 3s turnigy 5000mah, not too fat they fit my savage battery box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 here's some people's experiences http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/109667-the-e-firestorm-thread/page-137#entry1366397 http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/109667-the-e-firestorm-thread/page-224#entry1646323 http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/109667-the-e-firestorm-thread/?view=findpost&p=1650113 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Relativenewbyseb Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Wierd question as I already have the motor but what connectors are these? Need an adapter to fit my etronix esc motor wires which are slightly smaller so don't fit well Sent from my LT30p using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Bullets, why not change your esc connectors to match? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Relativenewbyseb Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Ok, Well I will have to change one or the other yeah unless there is an adapter, was just thinking it could be easier with an adaptor and my wires would reach further as the esc wires are quite short for where I have it Sent from my LT30p using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 if they motor wires are stiff DO NOT cut the connectors off as they are part of the winding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Relativenewbyseb Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Ok I'll make sure not to do that then :-D, the esc wires arent though so they look to be the ones that need changing Sent from my LT30p using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormchaser Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I am looking to get another 2s battery and found a turnigy 5000mah 20-30c on ebay,does that c rating sound ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I am looking to get another 2s battery and found a turnigy 5000mah 20-30c on ebay,does that c rating sound ok? 5000mah x 20c = 100A the pack should always exceed the ESC demands, so the real question is how much juice does your ESC need? Is it stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormchaser Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 5000mah x 20c = 100A the pack should always exceed the ESC demands, so the real question is how much juice does your ESC need? Is it stock? yes the esc is the standard flux vapor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_brum Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Would something like the Turnigy 4500mAh 2S 30C Lipo Pack from hobbyking be suitable for a stock car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stormchaser Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Well i think i am going to have to replace the motor and esc on the fs to get it up and running again and was thinking i would just replace with the standard fit flux vapor esc and vektor 4800kv motor but have had a search around for something similar and was wondering if either of these would be ok or can anyone recomend anything else that mite be better than the standard set up and idealy still waterproof http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobbywing-EZRun-Brushless-Combo-SC-C2-8-5T-Motor-120A-Waterproof-ESC-/281238442443?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item417b1e11cb http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOBBYWING-Combo-RC-Car-4700KV-Brushless-Motor-EZRUN-Waterproof-SC8-120A-ESC-/301010318869?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item46159cf615 Any help would be much appriciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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