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THE E-Firestorm Thread


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Ok, so still sticking with only 1 RC, and the Yeti really wasn't right for what I use one for (general bashing), I needed to get a reliable and fairly low priced RC, even though I only sold mine about a month ago, I am joining the club and it will be here to stay as my only vehicle for a long time. Bought @Vr5fx's from the FS section, I see he is using different gearing, but I am going to see if the Pro-Line spurs I have will fit to take it back to standard 48dp gearing as his has the old style slipper setup I believe.

 

It comes with some 17mm hex adapters which is great, along with the rear T-Bone bumper.

 

Now, electrics wise I'm still undecided, I think I'll go with the SRT servo I had before, as that was awesome and quick, 

 

It comes with: 

HPI Vapor pro

Turnigy 3190kv motor

 

But I have a Hobbywing Max10 SCT which I will put in, but I also have the matching 3660 4000kv motor, but think that will be overkill (and it's 5mm bore, difficult to get 5mm 48dp pinions).

 

Shall have to think... 

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I wish my Firestorm turned like that, did you do anything to improve the steering? What servo are you using?

 

On 10/04/2017 at 12:59, everclear1984 said:

 

Ah man, that looks good! I wasn't sure the buggy wheels would look right with the standard shell but that looks sweet!!

 

I bashed mine hard today, no breakages and it never missed a beat. I made a little video, just for fun. This thing flips so easy :)

 

 

 

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I believe it's this one, no other steering mods other than tightening the servo saver.

 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/bms-631mg-super-fast-servo-metal-gear-5-0kg-10sec-46g.html?___store=en_us

Edited by everclear1984
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Just now, locky said:

 

I'm using the plastic Kyosho ones.

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I've also been using the ones everclear recommended and everything is good so far. Had a few runs on tarmac on both 2s and 3s with 25/87 gearing. Held just fine, a lot better than others I've tried from eBay that seem to allow the wheels to wiggle a bit which causes issues at high speed as my poor shocks found out once lol.

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1 hour ago, locky said:

 

I just prefer this style as they use proper 17mm nuts to hold the wheel on, and the offset is better, closer to stock. But you will need some 5mm wide, 12mm hex's to run the above, something like:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12mm-Drive-Hex-Hub-Wheel-Aluminium-Blue-x-4-with-Pins-5mm-Bore-5mm-Wide-/361837442456?hash=item543f313598:g:xJ8AAOSwiDFYNwbU

 

Also you will need to cut down the silver nut that holds the adapter on, as it is really long stock and won't hold the adaptor on properly.

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48 minutes ago, Rowlly21 said:

Can you elaborate on tightening the servo saver. What does this mean ? 

 

The servo saver is threaded so it can be adjusted, I tightened it as much as I could so it's basically locked, at least until it works itself loose again.

Edited by everclear1984
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3 hours ago, everclear1984 said:

 

The plastic ones slide over the standard metal ones so the pins won't cause any wear

Don't you need a longer thread for the wheel nut to screw onto with these as they will make the wheels further away from the chassis.

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1 hour ago, Rowlly21 said:

What does this mean ?

 

On one of the steering posts there is a spring and the plastic post is in two halves. The spring pushes the two halves together with the tension being adjusted with a nut. If it is too loose then the servo turns but the steering wont. If it is too tight then a strong hit/roll on the wheel can force the servo arm and hence the possibly damage the servo gears. Blue thread lock on the spring nu adjuster ensures it wont come loose.

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8 minutes ago, Rowlly21 said:

@locky Thank you. So it's more of a case of it being adjusted correctly than "tightened right up " from what everclear was saying I thought it may have a influence on the steering lock but doesn't sound that way. 

 

It will have an influence on whether or not your steering will hold at full lock when moving, and yes, mine is tightened as much as it can be, essentially I don't have a servo saver.

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49 minutes ago, everclear1984 said:

 

It will have an influence on whether or not your steering will hold at full lock when moving, and yes, mine is tightened as much as it can be, essentially I don't have a servo saver.

I may give this a try up to a point, my steering doesnt hold very well. Although it has improved slightly (on tarmac) using the buggy wheels instead if the stock ribbed ones. Need some decent road tyres really though. They will make all the difference.

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GoolRC motor has arrived looks very good quality from the price. About to solder it up now just a quick question. Which wire goes where ? The ESC is marked A,B,C. But no markings on the motor just colour coded red yellow black. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Rowlly21
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