Bert_w164

Hi, For sale is a Dell laptop (Dude you're getting a Dell!), this was purchased around 9 months ago and since has ran daily (approx 10 hours) running an external display, or I've used it for photo editing and some light video work (no its not going to do any intense video editing with its mobile CPU and iGpu). The battery is encased and so that explains the "bad bits" later. I've noticed very recently if I ask it to do something demanding whilst on battery power it'll simply turn off. I believe its still on the original cell as this was an ex-commercial issued device, so no surprise there. It holds a full charge but cannot provide the current needed for anything intensive anymore, despite the BIOS stating the battery is in excellent health (I suspect that just relies on top end voltage that it can hold, as opposed to testing voltage under load). It runs perfectly whilst the charger is plugged in. It'll be cleaned up with anti bacterial solution ahead of postage, and looks in worse condition than it is in pictures but YOLO. Specs: - Dell E7270 - Intel i7 6600U CPU - 16gb Ram (was 8gb initially) - M2 500gb SSD - Intel 520 iGPU (I can play Borderlands 2 on this and did! As well as Diablo 3, albeit at humble graphics settings) - I've opened it up and replaced the stock thermal gloop with some decent stuff to help maintain turbo boost and better cooling, precautionary step I take with all my computers - WiFi, 5ghz, 2.4ghz - Backlit keyboard with no damage to keys or lettering marks - Healthy touch pad - Before battery went potato I use to get 6-8 run time from this, amazing little thing. - Carbon infused chassis on this range of Dell laptops, it's not a poverty spec machine. - It came without a charger, I bought a brand new one off Amazon (Dell original, its included) Bad bits: - Wee crack on corner, see pics. I bought it in this condition. Doesn't affect performance but worth mentioning. - Needs a battery replacement, £40 for OEM, or £65 for Dell original. - Once HDD is 0'd and I reinstall the OS, a licence key will be needed, approx £10 if you look closely, or just run W10 without one, it just restricts you from changing superficial stuff like colour schemes. Alternatively I can shove Linux on it for you. - Its not brand new, it'll have some superficial marks. - With utmost respect, if you're not savvy with computers please avoid buying as I don't have the time to play tech support for software issues or answer if its going to be able to run your prawn mainframe, play Cyberpunk 2077 at max settings etc. Reason for sale: - I bought a replacement with a dedicated GPU for some extra gaming headroom/video editing processing power. Price: - £135 posted (you pay fees) or £135 + actual cost of replacement battery which I'll install FOC, test and show you it now can do whatever it needs to on charge. At this time, not interested in any RC trades as I'm thinning down the fleet due to lack of time and mess it makes.

Nah they're solid and use Radiolink electronics. I didn't get along with mine as it seemed to glitch out but then I remembered the cat chewed the antenna wires. My next issue was the one @Kpowell911raised, it got to the point where the build was worth a fair wedge of money, I retired the Dumbo. Aesthetics and comfort came into it, so I ended up with a 3PV. They're decent for the price and have great range. Edit: didn't realise the Dumbo is now £35 lol, I paid like £21 or something daft a few years back! I'd buy a used handset at £35. However the fact remains the Dumbo will do the job...

Good point, totally overlooked that. Hold on, @Kajusbagdonas what are you trying to achieve/build here? Do you want a speed runner? Drop the pinion size down to 16-18, run the car, make sure all is well and increase the pinion size if you need more top speed...

Have a look at truggies too, a bit pricey but an Arrma Kraton 6S comes to mind and also an Arrma Notorious if you want an actual stunt truck, @Ant.phas a Notorious and is very fond of it. To make things even more complicated, I wouldn't discount a 1/8 buggy either, they certainly can jump and dominate tarmac with ease...and you don't get landed with a huge bill for big truggy wheels. Have a look at the up from the following brands to give you a good idea: Hobao, Losi, Arrma, Traxxas and see what takes your fancy. Personally I'd go down the used route, the moment you give any of these cars a bit of abuse they won't be looking spotless...You can get some really good cracking deals on used stuff if you look hard enough 😎 Edit: there was a Hobao VS that @James.S was selling for £140 that just needed a new ESC (£40-70 depending on spec) that would have fit your bill within £200 and they're known to jump and certainly handle tarmac extremely well, however I see the thread is now closed. Edit 2: This would fit the bill 😈 https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/251199-reduced-kraton-exb-with-max-6-4985-1650kv-combo-with-batts-and-charger/

Buy a Hobbywing Max8, go for a 2200kv motor with cooling fans and for the love of cooling use thermal paste between the motor and heatsink otherwise it's mostly a waste of effort, money and time. Add a cap pack to the esc. At that point you'll be geared to infinity and beyond (not really but 90mph is within sight) Throw the surpass hobby ESC away, or give it to your mortal enemy.

New or used? Is ongoing costs a concern to you? Is your budget just for the car, do you already have lipos, charger etc?

@GMballistic is another good resource/person to tap into for all things speed running. Ultimately it boils down to power to weight ratio, aerodynamics, traction and gearing just like in any car. Chassis and suspension definately helps with stability, there are so many factors...What is your ultimate goal? To competitively speed run or to reach a certain speed/personal goal etc., that'll guide you in terms of which route to take and what to expect costs to be...

Ha, I'm surprised your ESC hasn't turned into a ball of magical smoke. From that video it definately looks slow, but there's so much missing here to be able to diagnose a problem. List the full specs and then we may be able to help.

Has the lipo cell count changed? My BL150 needs to be manually programmed according to cell count, otherwise it just hits LVC and cuts out, which to me appeared like cogging too! Then I realised it has to be manually programmed as stated in the manual. If that's not your issue, then unfortunately its going to be a process of elimination: - Check all solder points and wires - Try another lipo - Make sure nothing is binding in the drive train adding unneccesary load - Try another motor - Try another ESC if none of the above sorts it out

Yeah its there to keep the pack together and I guess to allow a bit of expansion so don't go too tight/too many wraps of tape. X2 @Ant.p said, IMO leaded solder is a must have unless you like punishing yourself, with wires running next to the cells I wouldn't want to add more heat than I have to, leaded solder flows at lower temps compared to the weird chinese lead free stuff. As for soldering iron, go for a varible temp solder station type if you can, I'm using one off Amazon that was about £35, has two hands on it to hold things together and I can dial temps in to not over heat etc. Buy some heat shrinking tubes while you're at it. Lead solder isn't as nasty as it sounds, the lead doesn't vaporise at typical soldering temps, the fumes and smells is the flux, in any event work in a fume hood or very well ventilated area.

I think there's a RC race track in Ilford. However I'd rather stick a catcus in my an....than step foot into Ilford again, next to Valentines Park or something. I will NOT miss East London...and I'm ranting... In terms of South, Crystal Palace comes to mind.

I grew up on this stuff, my taste in music is all over the place...

Starting to show my age...remember being in year 8 or something when this dropped...

All relative to one's wealth I guess, if money wasn't an object I'd own some ridiculous stuff. May be even a FTX Bugsta, or a crawler.

Just cos Charli XCX and 90s 😎

The vocals and production on this whilst listening with a decent pair of headphones or speakers is awesome. You can hear when her voice peaks, she takes a quick breath, amazing.

Usually DJ Khaled angers me, but decent production on this 😎 Original is a banger too;

Hi, If anyone has aluminium hubs for a 4.0T please let me know. Also may be interested in aluminium braces etc.

I'm not a fan of the Amazon specials/Red DS servos and in both instances gave them away and opted for super old hitec servos which continue to do a great job. I found the red DS things just way too slow, but then again I have been running nothing but buggies until recently. So I guess for crawlers and other form factors which don't call for speed they're fine. I think with all the nice stuff you have you may end up a bit underwhelmed with the Red DS type servo. I second JX servo, had a 46kg in my 8T, no issues. Quick enough, decent torque and reviews seem decent too. Failing that I'd buy something used off FB/eBay.

Good question, I personally used evo-stick and scrim tape. I think it's because Kevin Talbot made it famous, plus it seems to work. Like you I find the cost of shoo-glue or whatever it's called a bit expensive. Would be interested to hear about others experiences, especially if and when using a cheaper glue 👍🏽