Fred barlow

I keep wanting to get an Mt8, well actually it's American cousin the kaiju ext but with all the duty and shipping I can get 2 mt8s, if you're wanting to make it 100% better look up rick and the kids hobby time on YouTube he's taken the kaiju and been fixing all the weak points throughout and it does stand up to the hammer

For those not on Facebook I spoke with the guy behind basherskinz and in the next few weeks he's going to be making some skins for the mt10, I'll post an update when I hear anything

We've got the ds servo ds3225 25kg servo in our 2 mt10s and touch wood 10 months in and they are still going strong

I don't know but I'd just swap it all out and start a fresh flysky stuff is cheap as chips (abisma stuff is also not bad as it's rebadged flysky stuff)

It's a known problem some people have with the mt10 and it's fixed by changing out the stock radio but if it's still under warranty I'd be sending the transmitter and receiver back or just change it out

Are you using the stock xp120 radio?

the only changes are the shell and they've taken off the skid/ bash steps off the sides of the chassis, but the v2 is slower than the v1

I think you need to calibrate the esc to suit the transmitter

from what I'm aware its just import and manufacturing cost increases, for its class i think it still is the best value, in a year ive only had a handful of breaks on 2 cars (both servos but they are junk, a set of wheels just because i swapped to fastrax wheel nuts and they failed and weve only has to fit 2 rpm arms total) and thats been driven by idiots like they were stolen, id go for the brushed version when it comes out and its about 289 but the brushed system is crap (the magnets are breaking loose or overheating ) so id put as close to a 3600kv brushless system in, chuck a 2s in (trust me thats quick) and enjoy, also this new v2 is mechanically the same as the v1 its just cosmetic and removal of the side protection for the chassis

More pics, I've got under trays for the TQ and TQ ish that just need painting and fitting

Yeah they are nothing special, we've got my original sport, my partner's TQ and my 2009 esk new old stock TQ build, both have period ish 17t tuned motors with modelsport (mtroniks) rv12 esc and we still run NiMH (because it's a waste running lipo on a brushed motor)

There's always the brushed version that comes with battery and charger at about £289 but the brushed motor needs swapping out it's pants

Welcome to the forum and 100% the rival mt10, I'd go for a v1 if you can find one because the v2 is just a new shell which doesn't really suit it and they removed the step side guards

Rival mt10 is short wheelbase 1/10 but is almost bulletproof, another option is the ftx tracer brushless ( identical to the hyper go and hbx 16889 because they are fundamentally the same car)

You've got a good starting platform, I'd just be fitting modern radio, modern esc (either mtroniks/ modelsport or a hobby wing 1060) and keeping it on NiMH battery because that's too clean to mess around with apart from maybe fitting the adjustable top arms and steering rods for the TQ and slipper clutch but an issue you will find until the summer (hopefully) is mardave are out of stock on quite a bit of cobra parts

I don't know about the thread starter but on my new build old stock one I've done a couple of small mods from mardave others I want to get if they come back in stock, what car have you got? And what mods are on the cards?

Yeah you can but connect directly to the battery the 12v port is usually low amps and remember to start the car after a couple of hours of charging

The combo could be but I'm not up on the castle motor and esc specs For the servo I just went for the ds3225 25kg waterproof one from eBay, bangood and Amazon for about £15

You'll be best ordering a set of hinge pins and change them as you change arms (we've only done 1 on each of our 2 mt10s in almost a year of use) The servo is fragile so have one to hand, Wheel nuts swap them out for nylocks and ditch the hub caps

You're missing some retaining pieces to hold the shaft in place which is needed for use if it's got plastic bushes the higher rpm will be causing them to melt a bit or you may have something incorrectly reinstalled Not knowing the car I can't be of much more help

I think it's a case of lack of flux, lead solder not fusing, holding it on the pin too long and a small tipped iron, I've got a cheap 60w iron that does any connector I need but I always use flux and 60-40 solder To my knowledge Ec5 are lower amp than the xt90

We've trailed our mt10s over some quite rough terrain only because we've got moorland as a bashing spot and I'm too lazy to carry them between locations, yeah it could do with some droop on the shocks or shorter springs to lower the CG a fraction but it handles pretty well both as a basher and a trail rig straight out of the box

You want to swap the serrated nuts for nylock nuts, I lowered mine 1 hole but my partner's is still stock and both wheelie easily (mine on 2s hers on 3s)

I'd swap the wheel nuts the serrated ones will only lock until the torque hits, I wouldn't worry about the rpm arms until you break the stock ones, we've got 2 and only had to do 1 arm and ours have bounced off fences, ankles and cartwheeled onto hard gravel

It's either a acme/hsp/ ftx truck or one of the many eBay/ Amazon specials that use a hotch pitch array of parts, personally it would have to be almost free before I'd spend any time setting it up as for restoring it's really not worth the time and effort trying to get parts.