Redback

I think you might need a bit more space to hit 70+, looks like a good place to test.

Cut it off and solder the wires togther, its only going to fail when water gets into it 😉

Looks mean nothing when it comes to performance, you should take OHO's advice rather than dismissing it outright, he has lots of tires and experience. These dont have big fat deep tread for example like the iroks or deep woods. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-hyrax-2-2-g8-rock-terrain-truck-tyres-2-/rc-car-products/407352 But peform better than super swampers that look like they would crawl great. Also i wouldnt ever be glueing on expensive tires, get beadlock wheels, guess you will find out what works and doesn't depends on how much you want to spend to find what your looking for.

Looking forward to seeing this develop.

If the teeth are missing you need a new diff spur ring. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-diff-drive-spur-gear-2-vantage-carnage/rc-car-products/365762 You might also need. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-diff-drive-gear-2-vantage-carnage/rc-car-products/365776 After 4 years the front diff has just worn out in the lads outlaw we are replacing it this weekend. Never had to shim an outlaw diff, although if you want to keep using a worn diff pop open the diff, remove the spur, pop out the pinion and put some shims on the shaft, replace the pinion check to see if its to tight, if so remove a shim, too loose add one etc. Yeah its a bit of a bugger, because even the one i said stalled on standing starts / hills / long grass etc, feathering the throttle to get some momentum helps a little, sensored would be the only way to get the low torque control without changing transmission parts. Its about how and were you plan to drive. Its to stop the motor / esc burning out by just pumping amps into a unmoving motor = heat. After 3 failed launch attempts it will saftey cut off. We really need a 5mm shaft 17t .6 pinion so we can run bigger motors on the stock gearing. 50 - 60 £ for the transmission and parts, you can see more details in my signature 🙂. Sensored systems that are waterproof are limited in choice and cost quite a bit more but solve the issue, depends if you can justify a 200£ sensored system for 120£ truck. As we drive the trucks lots it was worth the investment for me.

Started making an under tray, put the rally tires on rock crawler wheels, I think the low profile tires suit the wheels.

Your the man, i kinda wanted the 2speed, and would probably sell the truck rather than modify it at its un run and freshly built. Mine isnt run as the shifter binds another issue with the this transmission thats "normal". :(

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-hardened-acetal-outlaw-main-spur-gear-62t/rc-car-products/433883 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-6-pinion-17-teeth/rc-car-products/13756 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=406604 As this is for a younger driver be aware brushless is much faster and if the motor melted i assume it was being driven on hills or long grass something was stressing the motor, check the usal suspects once the motor is removed, does each wheel spin freely or does it bind, is the drive shaft binding on something like the servo or motor case, is something jammed? Outlaws dont do well as per above posters issue with his brushless upgrade, clogging brushless motors on hills, they are good once going but stalling from standing on hills is a constant nusance for me with its inabilty to trail and crawl so depending on how far you want to go with the truck theres many more parts you can try. I always for get to mention as i run 140mm tires that are quite a bit bigger than the stock outlaw tires, if you put on smaller tires this will help with brushless cogging but slower top end speeds.

Hello, yep your motor is cooked if you shine a light inside the holes you will see the brush armatures are melted off, doubt cml will send you a replacment motor and if they do it will last about 10 - 20 min before melting again. Upgrade to brushless or you will be replacing motors lots. Yes i went for lower kv to try to get more torque but it still cogged on the outlaw, I also tried a much bigger can 3665 4200kv and it also cogged. Ergo the transmission swap. Sorry to hear you have issues, maybe some smaller tires, you can try feathering the throttle to prevent it stalling, loweing the punch to level 1 and moving to 11v 3s lipo will also help with stalling, lowering the motor power wont help and there is no timing control for the ezrun.

Indeed good points. I dial back the steering for the speed runs right now, I have a gyro to try but wont help when its in the air, will put on foam tires when i get serious not going to invest in those for testing early on, the roads here I think would just eat them. For now im going to use crawler beadlock wheels on these rally blocks and cut the blocks down for a nice low but wide tread. Should also weigh the car down quite a bit so less chance of it taking off.

Vape on! Needs its rings replacing 😂 @Fly In My SoupWhat did you use for the smoke machine please? Thank you. Popped a brushless setup in the Banzai for speed runs to see how fast we can push a 100£ car, got some testing in on highest punch 120a esc and 120c 3s race pack, results are bonkers fast and quite uncontrolable. No surprise there haha. Stock pinion and spur have held up fine so thats nice. Added carnage slippers to the gatekeeper transmission to save the front diff from being eaten out as shown. Could just use a large washer, ideally need to put in a propper sprung slipper.

True but they are not the worst, they flex and are not brittle. Hello welcome! Aslong as its just more speed rather than doing jumps & stunts, a cheap brushless combo will give you a speed boost and run time increase. Otherwise you can try increasing the pinion size but will stress the motor and esc. Motor + Esc (£60+) As the mauler is locked diffs, you could try the kanyon axles that support the large open diff used on other ftx models that is an open diff. eg the outlaw rear diff is the same as the kanyon just with a locker. New axels will widen the track but will help with rolling over when turning if your going to be going faster anyway. Axels and parts (¬£35) Another option is bigger tires and wheels this will upgear the drive, i think the mauler runs 140mm tires you can get 148mm ones. Tires + Rims (¬£60) But as oho said, its a crawler not made for speed, could spend this money on a basher like a small buggy or stadium truck.

Looks very flexible like nothing would ever break, the lower arms seem so thin, digging it!

Haha, its always the way we have fun with the tinkering they have fun giving us things to fix, i cant wait for the next adventure hehe! enjoy your beers Yep once set just check theres a teeeny tiny bit of gap between the teeth by turning the spur gear, you should be able to feel the very very small amount of play as the teeth start to mesh, if it doesnt do this with a finger tip, it might be a hair to tight. Either way your going to be ok with the paper gap it shouldnt rip or punch holes so to speak but it should pass through without tearing or jamming. As plastic spurs teeth can flex a little they wear a bit different to metal on metal, its all about the "feel".

Xmax for yourself and give him the rustler If they can prove they can drive a fast truck they can have a fast truck, so see how he goes with the rustler and go from there

Exact same issue with mine, also a kit, same 2speed trans and tons of slop, seen others with the same issue and comments, not found a fix yet. Its unacceptable for the price of the truck. I figured thats just how they came.

Both trucks looking amazing, loving the paint job and those panels look very sturdy!

Really nice build enjoyed watching it evolve, peaked my intrest in the truck for sure, looks like loads of fun.

Good work! looks like it can take a hit, please show crash testing footage

haha Thank you! You gave it away with the new rustler arms post.

Rustler & Bugsta. Heres some snow dressed as a truck, what truck is it.

Added a winch. Dropped in the space behind the bumper, could also mount behind the shock tower but this was easier, added some foam, should do as dont need it hard fixed as shell will prevent it from bouncing out.

I dunno, it says fail safe on it, just dont want to see you buying something you dont need. Make it go out of signal by pulling the throttle and turning off the remote, does it stick on? oof new chassis front end. going to go for the zoro bumper? better flex point. or metal chassis? Limited edition tires, get some whist they last...

Assuming you have the etronix pulse that comes with the ftx models not sure about the carnage, the failsafes built into the reciver.

Plastic diff pinion? 😢 Thats parts going to fail often from the looks of the way its bent the teeth over, why would they use plastic here, For the price id expect metal what the...