Bushmonkey

Afternoon all. Been looking at a kyosho mini z. I understand RWD will be drifty, but does anyone know how a FWD mini z feels compared to AWD?? Also do all bodys fit all chassis? Cheers

You can get waterproof bearings, also bearings arnt that expensive, think about how much electricity you use charging batteries lol

Awesome, I have the normal inferno neo 3.0 and it's great, I wish I would of just gone for that MP9 though lol. Did you go for it already broken in or you doing the break in??

Cheers guys. Main use is gna be general bumpy trail with average rock climbing, not Mount Everest style like some of you guys 😅. I've got some springs on order from modelsport to try for now, front 0.30 (stock is 0.45) and rear 0.39 (stock is 0.54). We'll see how it goes and I'll update, 1 part is back order though so wont get them for few week maybe

Ok that makes sense. Right now, if I lift the front wheel up, the rear tyre will lift off the ground before the shock reaches max travel. Although the trx is almost a month old now and havent gotten out much due to lockdown. Could the stock springs break in better?? I'm open to grabbing some new springs anyway, always like to experiment with setups etc

Evening all, thought I'd post an ad here too, see if anyone interested I have for sale a brand new set of Custom BC racing coilovers BR Series (Fast road/track day) designed for Micra K11. They was for a project but due to sods law, my project had to be scrapped. I paid around £800 for these but looking for around £450. Open to offers. Thanks Manchester area

Well atm I have it on the stock oil which I hear is 30. Really bouncy. Just wanna make more use of shock travel

Evening Look at changing the shock oil in my TRX 4. Just curious what WT you guys are using and why. I'm looking at 10-15 atm Cheers

Played racing games all my life, if your on console stick with forza or gran turismo for realism. Although they feel different. If you wanna race online with serious players go granturismo, I cant tell you how many times mardy forza drivers ram you off the road, and as for 1st corner madness, forza is basicly destruction derby lol. Granturismo has a "Sportsmanship" rating as well as driver rating so if you race clean, you will mostly be paired with people who race clean. For feel, forza feels grippy and spongy and gran turismo feels stiff and understeery. You will adjust though and get used to it Have used a G29 before and it's fine, dont worry too much about super expensive wheels just yet. On Granturismo main advantages of wheel users btw is tyre wear, it's amazing how much smoother you can turn and save your tyres. On a 20 lap race, you could just hold back abit then dominate in last few laps or save tyres and avoid that extra pit. Good luck

Brushed silver sounds good. Also what about Clear inner with white/black outline??

Stuck some exhaust wrap to inner shell with duck tape to prevent anymore melting. Fits pretty well. Also dirt cheap, 1 meter for 2 quid

When X games meets RC

Installed under armour on the TRX

Exhaust wrap to protect my nitro shell from melting again 🙂

Is it somthing like this?? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=387618&gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ij2BRBdEiwA0Frc9X4LFjevRVPteB94O6VaiW1aEhX7jSsTmtEqMVlnoiiWBc-5JF2i5RoCSFoQAvD_BwE

Morning sir! Check out this page of goodies, https://www.modelsport.co.uk/screws/rc-car-categories/9970/998085&MSAttributeID[74]=788&MSAttributeID[62]=794&MSAttributeID[75]=865&ManufacturerID=51 Many many bolts , including tiny Allen key bolts

Like IRL, a van would be more likely to roll than a lambo. Your monster truck would be the Van in this case If you really want to mod it you could install some Antiroll bars and add somthing like a 30WT shock oil. Also lower traction tyres could help it not "Dig" into the ground thus preventing the roll Also WT is basically how thick oil is. WT1 would be like water and WT100 Could be like super glue lol

If your car is tipping onto 2 wheels when turning, lower your ride height Well this statement would be true for a buggy, not sure about somthing that tall. Still might help though, it has a high COG

I would recommend replacing with new set of stock shocks and then adjusting them with shock clips. You could spend abit more on some screw thread adjustable shocks, but it depends on your budget. Also remember, expensive shocks wont make a difference if your not adjusting your suspension. For example, your stock shocks with a proper setup will perform better than an expensive set with no setup. You say your going to be mainly on tarmac and abit of casual offroad. so you would want the ability to switch from low (tarmac)to medium/high (offroad) ride heights, also as for oil I'd say somthing in the middle. Get some good tyres too, that will make the biggest handling improvements Hope this helps, I'm sure theres more knowledgeable people here who will reply soon though

Is the engine the SH 18??

Is it brand new?? I hear you should break in engines with the fuel you intend on using for most of the engines life. So breaking in with that and then switching to a higher % could be bad

MIP it is then. When modelsport opens again

You building a course??

Afternoon Looking at some hex drivers but I have questions What's the difference between an normal set of fastrax drivers and these mips? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/mip-hex-driver-wrench-set-1-5-2-0-and-2-5mm/rc-car-products/385578 Also these arrowmax https://www.modelsport.co.uk/arrowmax-allen-wrench-set-1-5-2-0-2-5-3-0x120mm-blk-golden/rc-car-products/447511 Why are they so much more?? Are they better quality?? I assume they would both be hardened steel or somthing. Do they have torque settings?? If there worth the money then great I'll grab em. If not I'm just gna grab some fastrax. Cheers