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AndyMB

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Everything posted by AndyMB

  1. Hi Adam, Where abouts are you located? The good thing is you know what you have. Best thing to do is look at similar and completed items on eBay to give you an idea of value. I'm a Tamiya collector and condition is everything when giving a value. Feel free to PM me pics or anything like that and I can give you a rough idea? Thanks, Andy
  2. MST RMX 2.0 is a good starter. I have a couple of D4s I use on indoor circuits but they do require a fair bit of upgrading and fettling to get right. RMX is good almost out of the box.
  3. I completely agree with Hawkesy, Onisiki Gyro and 10.5t brushless motor is ideal for these. I run D-Like and Onisiki gyros and both are as good as each other. A good servo also helps, we use Kingmax at my club mainly. You can get them from slidedynamicsrc.com 👍 Ben will hook you up with all you need. I run Turnigy Trackstar Turbo ESCs in all my RWD drifters and they seem to be lasting well even when running boost.
  4. L and L models make an RC body of the MK1 Escort Mexico, but if you want an easier smaller version, Scalextric have made a few MK1 Escorts over the years, the original ones change hands for very little money.
  5. Yeah sure. Drop me a message via my page on Facebook when you’re ready and we can sort something out :)
  6. Mardave have come a long way from the V12 days, this looks very nice
  7. That looks great, will you be painting the yellow? I've done a few Scania decal sets before, my page on Facebook is Style92UK 🙂 Looks like you've got a brilliant paint finish so far
  8. Looking great so far, very neat build. Are you going for any kind of livery on this?
  9. I have a couple of D4s, rear and mid motor, and a front motor MST FXX. All use either D-Like or Onisiki gyros. The Onisiki is probably best value at around £30 and looks good too. Servo wise I have one running OMG, and two use Kingmax. I much prefer the Kingmax, they are £50 from my club which seems a lot but it's probably the most important part of the build so worth it really. Slide Dynamics RC is open for online ordering and worth a look. 8.5T motor is quite fast, we run 10.5 only, but you can always adjust your gearing to suit. Have fun with it, I have heard good things about the D5 so far 👍 Slide Dynamics RC have a lot of good bodies too so have a little browse 🙂
  10. I have the kit version of the SCA1E Range Rover but I can see why you might have issues. I think like someone said before check the steering dual rate adjustment, the steering on mine isn't too bad but I have a high torque servo and non standard radio. The RTR wheels and tyres are much larger than mine, and mine would rub if the body was lower. I think narrower hexes could work but you might want to chop the front bumper a bit? The big black front bumper gets in the way when crawling so I have made the decision to take mine off and trim it down for a more scale look and gain some clearance. Here's a pic of a similar setup... With a bit of tinkering they can be really good trucks, I am certainly pleased with mine but I have spent quite a while adjusting/building it.
  11. I use a single motor ESC on my clod's, re-wired like this... Hope the article helps
  12. Yeah i'm almost certain that's the kit I used. Front and rear on mine are definitely the same. If I remember rightly I had to use a couple of washers or something to make it a bit smoother but my SMT10 was bought second hand and 'well loved' so it didn't necessarily have all the original hardware with it. You do need the little green sway bar holders on the chassis like at the rear. They are held on with two screws each side. Rears come installed but I think the extras for the front may not come fitted so might be worth checking you have those? Pic attached
  13. I have a SMT10 running Clod Buster size tyres and all I did really was the front sway bar too. I used the Axial one below if that helps... https://www.modelsport.co.uk/axial-rr10-rear-sway-bar-set-soft-/rc-car-products/397084 I use a brushed 17t motor on 3s Lipo batteries and it's extremely powerful but no major breakages yet! Great fun and good trucks if you look after them and keep them clean and lubricated up
  14. Hi all, I have a couple of Brushless ESCs I was given which need some cleaning and soldering work. I was wandering if anyone knows a way to test they are working without connecting a brushless motor? I have plenty of brushed motors laying around, but I don't think all brushless ESCs can run them. Maybe a volt meter on one/two motor terminals would give me something? Any advice welcome Andy
  15. It's certainly worth a try before you have to pay fees for a well known online auction!
  16. Apparently so, even at half of that it seems steep.
  17. It's not the most desirable of models but certainly collectors out there like myself who would be interested. Could try selling it here first, include plenty of pics, and if that fails then ebay is your best bet if you are willing to post. Price depends entirely on condition
  18. I want one so badly, but certainly not at $600!
  19. Ideal if you fancy a Diesel Brodozer replica!
  20. If it helps, at my local club using 1/10th cars, we are all running 10.5t motors. Some with boost, some without.
  21. Have you adjusted the lengths so the wheels point straight when the servo is at neutral? Maybe check your steering trim too and get it all centred correctly. Trial and error like you say. I used to run a bit of toe in when I raced Mardaves indoors.
  22. I'm a bit of a Tamiya collector but I haven't seen one of those for a while. Ebay probably your best bet for selling to be honest, start around the £100 mark? If you're located in Kent let me know 🤣
  23. Looking good so far. I just finished my SCA1E Range Rover with almost identical setup and it ran great. Really capable chassis with plenty of weight up front 👍
  24. That’s great thank you. PM coming your way 👍
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