PraetoR

Good stuff. The shocks might be overkill, but they're NICE!

What a shame about the shock-mount. That's far from ideal! If the speed-tuned gear means a different spur (I'm guessing, smaller?), you'd have to use a non-standard sized pinion, as the gap to the spur would otherwise be incorrect. However, I don't know what the standard size of pinion is, so it could be that 19t is correct for the speed gear and 21t is correct for the standard spur (for example). Worth checking that the pinion is 0.6 mod pitch, not the standard 48dp. 0.6 mod is correct for the TL-01 (unless than speed gearing spur is different?).

Initially, that won't be necessary, as you'd use the other car's transmitter and receiver and just plug your Jumpshot servo into the channel 1 of the receiver and your ESC into channel 2. If that cures it, you know the problem is definitely with your radio gear. Only then would you try and work out if it is your transmitter, or receiver. If it doesn't, then try your transmitter/receiver with the other car's ESC. Very unlikely to be the ESC, but no harm in troubleshooting everything. Instructions for pairing will be found on the manual for the radio system. Most are available, online. As stated above, it's likely not the servo saver, but always worth checking that isn't slipping, anyway!

Ah, you could be right! BanziBarn- Radio issues could be the receiver and/or the transmitter. Nevertheless, the best way is to plug in another radio system to your servo.

Hello and welcome. Changing the steering servo (correct term!) is the best first step, so you've already eliminated that. The next step would be the receiver, as you have correctly identified. However, have you made sure that the servo-saver (the bit on the end of the servo, which the steering arms are connected to) is fully tightened and not slipping? The job of a servo saver is to "slip" in a crash, absorbing the energy and saving the servo from being forced in a direction it does not want to go. If too loose, they can slip even under normal steering. Although, your issue sounds more like an electronics glitch. By this point (if the RC is new), I'd be getting the shop to fix it, under warranty. If not new, then you do need to look at a new receiver. Best way is to find another RC car and use the receiver and speed controller from that to power the servo on the Jumpshot. See if the problem goes away. As for the "RC" being at fault; In this case, it's either the steering/servo components, or the electronics. The chassis is completely irrelevant. Good luck!

Good work

I've never seen a Tamiya BZ Motor. Is it nice? Also, WHAT incorrect M Chassis Tyres?? I don't see any and now I want to see an M-Chassis build!

This is the way...

Any kit. As long as you've experienced putting an RC together and running it with sense of accomplishment and a big grin on your face.

So much racing! And I'm still envious of you going TC racing.

For what it's worth, all the way back in 2003, I was racing touring cars in the 27t stock motor class. On a 7.2v ni-mh battery, during a 5-minute race, the tamiya plug melted and fused into a molten lump. As the others have said, I wouldn't use a Tamiya plug for anything.

Cheers, all! Appreciate the support.

That's using yer noggin!

The condition of that!! Was it brand new?? I think it'll be great. An older Tamiya touring car, with moderate power, is more interesting to me than an "extreme" RC. I own an Arrma Vorteks, but don't really like it. I much prefer my TT-01E, running a 12t brushed motor (although, yeah, it's had a LOT of money and upgrades thrown at it). I'll be honest, the Torque Tuned is nice, but the performance is not good for the money. Are you against non-Tamiya parts? It's just you can get adjustable camber and tow links, which is always a bonus. I use GPM items, but I wouldn't recommend them.

How tall are the tyres you're looking for? I have some spare Gmade MT1903s, which are really good, but could do with better foams. They are only 110mm, though. Don't know what size the Canyons are. You're welcome to them.

Bit more progress on the 'bago. The latest task was to sort-out a rear suspension setup that would allow the chassis to be mounted without cutting holes in the floor of the Winnebago. The shock hoops are just too high. Luckily, the GS02 chassis is also available with the BOM Trail Truck, which uses a different rear shock solution. This is the route I wanted to go down. As standard, it's a cantilever system, but this wouldn't work. This is because the cantilevers have to be mounted behind the rear axle; and with the longer wheelbase, there simply isn't enough chassis left. A longer chassis (or an extension) would be needed. Luckily, the BOM also has the alternative "V-configuration". This includes mounting the shocks upright, but leaning inward, with the tops attached to the chassis braces. It's incredibly effective at controlling the truck mass (something the Winnebago could definitely use), in-fact it's so effective, that the GS02 BOM RTR has the V-configuration fitted from the box. The good news is, the little plastic mounting block that's necessary to use the V-configuration is not only included with the BOM kit, but it's also included in the Komodo kit! Now, the Winnebago is going to be a damn sight heavier than a BOM and I noticed the plastic brace has a bit of flex. This brace literally has the entire weight of the back of the truck suspended from it, so an upgrade to the metal brace was on the cards. Plastic brace (between the shock hoops). The metal brace is very nicely machined and MUCH stronger. The all-important shock-mounting block. Had to stand-off the shocks a bit, but they are solid. The BOM rear shocks would have been too short, as the mounting holes on the Boom Racing axles are further away, so I bought these lovely, longer Gmade RSD shocks. It was pure guesswork! However, the length is almost perfect. It sits really nice. Rear clearance achieved! The front will be more of a challenge, but progress is progress. 99% sure I'm keeping the front shock hoops and suspension, so I moved the threaded rod from the rear, to the front. The front shock hoops had alarming flex. They are now solid. The V-configuration was supposed to give more control over mass, but reduced flex... Less flex, my backside! Look at it!! The shocks sit nicely, even under the weight of the Winnebago. Very happy how this has turned out. The front is next. As is finding a new battery mounting location (I've got another idea). It's going to be tricky, but she's getting there.

I did a double-take, when I saw that price!! 😲 What an absolute bargain! I cannot believe you can get a TC like that, for that money! At a glance, I thought you'd bought an expensive Yokomo, Schumacher, or modern XRay. I'm definitely going to have to do some research on this one. Good work, with your racing! I bet you're really pleased.

Looks fantastic! Great work.

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!

Didn't want one, until I saw that video. Now that's some top-class marketing!

No worries.

Thanks a lot!

It's fiiiiiiiine!

I'm happy to act as a middle man, if you want to get hold of him.

Cheers! Sharkfat is really skilled. Certainly will! Cheers. Have you tried sending him a message on pussbook? He responds within a few days, usually. Thanks!