Ross9999992

Maybe it’s a power regulator? Seems to have 2s input so possibly 5v output?

Look out below!! Seems there was another teaser type video from September but can’t see it for sale anywhere. Side note…great looking bash spot there, I don’t do much skatepark but if there was something like that nearby then maybe I would 😄

The manual says the input voltage for the tx is 6v and the low volt alarm is 4.5v whereas it says the rx can take 4.8 to 7.4v Due to that I would consider not just connecting the 2s directly to it, I would run a 5v bec and a lipo alarm. To be fair though rechargeable AA’s will easily last more than a day of use. They seem to just last forever. Charge before you play and/or have a spare set and you’re laughing 👍🏻

Good stuff 😄 If it is this here charger then eww but it will do job….your new battery would take somewhere between say 100 and 120 minutes to charge at 3 amps (it is a 5.2 amp battery) once it has been used (down to 3.5v/cell or so). You could consider a charger upgrade but I understand at 15 money may be a problem…I’m old(ish) and money still is a problem 😂 I’m unsure how much you know about lipo care but you could consider getting some kind of “lipo checker” if you don’t have one so you can check the voltages of each cell. You also shouldn’t store lipos charged up just as a little fyi. If you haven’t I would definitely recommend reading at least the lipo guide available on here and maybe even do some googling on lipo care…they are great but should be looked after 👍🏻

Oh there’s too many variables for me to even suggest something but you may be able to see it obviously binding up. If you fancy going to the effort of removing the motor, pinion or spur then you may even be able to hear bad bearings grinding. Was your model new? If it was and you’ve only used it indoors then it’s probably not bearings but if it was used then there’s probably no harm in giving it a strip down and actually checking each bearing 🙂

Yeah but there are many many different lipo chargers…what’s right for one is not always right for another. Maybe your new lipo wasn’t bad, maybe it just wasn’t charged for instance. How did you figure out it was bad?

Umm how were you charging the batteries/how do you charge your unknown battery?

Hi guys, Might have gone and got myself an xmaxx but I’m a believer that stock traxxas esc’s all let the magic smoke out and are on borrowed time even when new (and mines not new). So I’ll be getting a max6 for it most likely. Figured I’d see if anyone had one here before buying new because well…I’m a cheapskate 🙂 So yeah anyone have one they want to sell…I’d consider a max5 if it’s cheap but I doubt that’s going to happen. Let me know what you’ve got. Cheers 👍🏻👍🏻

I went along the diy links route with mine. M4 rod ends from AliExpress and then m4 threaded rod and 6mm aluminium tube from b&q. The stock servo savers I also found to be stupid soft so went with some of the cheap ds3225 servos and aluminium arms (no servo saver) that are available everywhere and they seem to be doing the job well enough 👍🏻 You can also remove the foams from the stock tires for some instant improvement though softer tires are what it really needs.

Drag brake or binding in the drive train could cause that. Check programming option 11 is set to 1 (0% drag brake) according to Max 10 manual. If it does the same powered off (give the vehicle a throw/push) then it’s potentially binding…then it’s time to check bearings and things 🙂

Eww Centre diff = boring!! It’s a mt…it’s supposed to wheelie 😘

Yeah that’ll probably do it then 😂 Just make sure it’s not too hot right after it stops, if it is then you’ll want to lower that setting. You can check the voltage also after it’s charged and assuming it’s a 5 cell standard pack for a baja then you’ll be looking for 7.5v….if it’s low then you’ll want a higher setting.

Yeah fair enough 😄 From a quick Google nimh delta peak should be set between 3mv and 6mv. Too low and it’ll shut off early, too high and it’ll overcharge too much. It should be warm when the charger stops but not proper hot. Start low, keep an eye on it and check temps (with your hand). I would deffo still charge closer to 1c though 👍🏻 You may also consider getting a cheapo “smart” charger, iMax b6 for example - that’ll use voltage or whatever for auto shut off and be potentially simpler than delta peak.

Pop it in a drawer somewhere and use a lipo 🙂 Delta peak has settings? Charging at too low rate can stop delta peak detection from working (the peak isn’t big enough), I’d take 1c charge rate on a delta peak charger. Depending on your charger you may also be able to use a temp sensor - nimh gets hot when charged.

Yes, you are safe to order from banggood…..they also sell hobbywing stuff. Personally I prefer AliExpress due to the customer services (banggoods is crap).

Bumpety bump, still looking 🙂

Well done. Here, take a 🍪.

5s I found to be the sweet spot with a 2200kv…4s was slow for me and 6s they say breaks things. VS motor mount I believe fits as the simple option and then yeah a battery tray. You can go further and add a rx box and esc mount plate or they can just be stuck directly to the chassis if you want to keep it simple. I also run a 150a esc and 4274 motor similar to what storm linked 👍🏻

I thought there would be but I can only seem to find a couple on there 😞

Small bump 🙂 @Kpowell911 not got a spare one you want rid of? 🤪

Fair enough, I’ll skip em for now then. Just fancied a 17t to make my hyper a bit more grass friendly but I don’t think I would ever use the other two 🙂

£13 each or for the 3? £5 for the 17t? 👍🏻

Putting the feelers out there then, spoiled the wife and now have permission to buy whatever I want 😂 Anyone looking to part with one? Non Traxxas esc would be cool because we all know how great their stock stuff is. At least one set of batteries would be useful but not essential and I’m kinda good for chargers. The closer to Swindon the better really as I’d like to collect if possible…PayPal goods and services if too far away 🙂 Cheers 👍🏻

Ahh fair enough. You can usually find info for specific motors with a bit of Googling I find but yeah there are many many options. It’s not even just as simple as “use x motor for model z” because of the other factors. Speed runners I guess use far higher kv/taller gearing/higher voltages than bashers. Bashers generally just want reliability on all surfaces with reasonable speed etc. For 1/8 models most people run 4s-6s but if running 4s only then you can get away with hot <2800kv…running 6s <2200kv is about the limit. Regardless a 40mm+ diameter can seems to be the norm though it seems there are models out there running 4s with 36mm motors. To a certain point voltage can decide max kv and then gearing to control speed/heat although lower kv can often be geared taller to achieve a similar speed as higher kv. Run a pinion that’s too big and risk overheating your esc/motor….run a pinion that’s too small and risk burning your motor. Running more volts than suggested for more torque but never hitting max rpm to keep temps down (throttle limit settings) can work but it’ll also pull more amps from your esc etc etc. Tis a minefield. If/when a decision needs making then often the wisdom of the crowd is most helpful in these cases as long as you can decide on a few of the variables for yourself (model and voltage mostly) 🙂