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Everything posted by wolfie1
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I have this charger and use it to charge 4x 4s 10000mah packs at a time, probably takes less than 2 hours to charge to full from LVC cutting out https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/skyrc-t400q-ac-dc-charger-1346891
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My slayer will prob be on the list and maybe even the slash but i havent checked and dont think im going to bother
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Thanks but a bit late now
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I run a flysky gt3c radio system and it works well there are other budget ones that also work well, its a personal choice. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/absima-4-channel-radio-cr4s-v2-including-receiver-1350827 As far as a servo anything metal geared 20kg or above at 6v would suit your needs https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/power-hd-lf20-metal-geared-servo-red-388829 for an esc it depends if you simply want to keep using the stock motor or go for something with slightly more power, for your stock motor an esc like this would be ideal https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/tamiya-hobbywing-1060-rtr-60a-brushed-esc-wp-1348298 these are just suggestions at the end of the day its up to you how much you want to spend, i have picked some budget options for you
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Just getting back into 1/10 scale electric
wolfie1 replied to martindf3's topic in Introductions & Welcomes
Well https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/schumacher-procat-classic-kit-1347297 and https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/associated-rc10-jay-halsey-edition-kit-1365600 bring you back? -
That thing will have a mechanical speed controller that wont be sitting in the right place so as it sits in the middle and thats why the wheels are turning, personally i would replace it with a esc, a 2.4ghz radio system and a better steering servo, take the drive wheels (for safety) and that black plastic cover off and then look at the orange board thing move when you move the control and it will make sense to you
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I was looking at a gens ace imars d300 as a replacement, for £70 from aliexpress it seems like a good option but i am in no hurry as i have another charger that i can use too
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I have c240 duo 1 of these and i seen a post somewhere tail end of last year talking about amazon doing a recall on them as they can catch fire (but not in the uk) so have been wary of them but have just seen another post today where the touchscreen version has caught fire and its making me wonder if i should just bin it and replace with something else, i realise the charger to replace is a lot cheaper than having a fire. I have had mine for a couple of years now and i cannot fault it but still there is that fear there, anyone else using the same brand, anyone have some input on this?
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Put some savage xl wheels on the maxx to run it in the snow, was keeping a close eye on the temps as they are really too big but the added ground clearance def helped
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I can tell you for replacing bushings take them out and measure them so say for example say is 17x26x5 for the bushing this is broken down as internal diamater x external diameter x width in this order and put that into ebay or wherever and this will give you the size of bearings, the other number you may get may be 2rs for example after the numbers this signifies that it has 2 rubber shields on it which would be my recommendation for an rc vehicle, there is other types of shieldings available but it is the 2rs you want. Hope that makes sense
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Here is ebay link as i have no idea how to link aliexpress, obviously ebay is more expensive than ali https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/316072258188?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=smzinqofr6m&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=MRHag3XmRgm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Cheap yipin 80kg servo= speed and power https://youtube.com/shorts/9IE9zJ3sd0s?si=n_-aaIxWmAg2bPUN
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I have only ever killed 1 of these 80kg servos but it was my fault for using an alloy servo saver, the thing was seized and locked up solid, its always alloy servo saver/bellcranks that seem to kill servos, i have tried using 3 in different models and everytime i use 1 i kill a servo, (which were a power hd and a savox both with metal gears) i just stick to plastic savers now and have never had a problem
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Saver seems ok, certainly moves the wheels good, i also use this same servo on the xmaxx with magma tyres and it turns them no bother either on 8.4v. I think for sub £40 delivered from aliexpress for this servo is a no brainer. I have just ordered the ak70 70kg servo to try out, i thought for £30 why not
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With the big wheels on this the stock servo really struggled to turn the wheels, so upgrade time and fitted my favourite 80kg servo that i had in a drawer, since the tuning card arrived i also changed the bec up to 7.4 v (these flysky receivers are only rated up to 6.5) and it didnt release the magic smoke so at least that's encouraging, holy skoes it turns well fast now, i should really have taken a video
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Here you go https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/fms-fcx24-1-24th-smasher-4wd-rtr-blue-v2-1352466/tuneups-2378
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I would like to build something but of yet i haven't found what i want, ideally i would like some sort of off road 8x8 truck that doesnt cost thousands, did look last year but gave up as i couldnt find what i wanted
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I think the issue with the stock wheels is the voids behind the hex (which you can see in the pic, i did wonder about these when new but that naaa be alright) which allow the hex to deform too easily, if i get replacements i am going to fill these with epoxy resin
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I am with you on that 1 100%
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I like to use wheel nuts which have a cap on them if that makes sense, stops crap getting in the holes and filling the allen keys and yes these are serrated too
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I took this out today just driving around on sand and 1 of them front upper arms split along the hinge pin this was on pack 4 since new this happened, i haven’t jumped or crashed this car yet, i had read about this issue on the early cars but thought this was something that had been addressed, obviously not! I have done a repair where i glued the part back together, drilled some holes and threaded some m1.6 bolts in there with some superglue and then drilled some more holes and put zip ties around it And then this is what i am left with, i did drill holes in the other arm and put zip ties on it too and thats not even the worst bit! When i tried to take the wheels off the wheel hexes were just spinning, this is a very poor show to say the least! the back ones werent so bad, so both this and the arrma i got back in september have been somewhat underwhelming in quality! I am going to have a chat with team corally as i feel these issues should never have happened this early in especially with just been run on grass and sand and never crashed/jumped hopefully they can do something for me! So for the moment this is what i have put together so it can be run, i kinda like the look
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Thanks for that link, yes the manual does have the table in it
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Its very much appreciated thank you, it was the type of hobbywing programming card that worked i was asking about, do you have a link to 1 the same as yours or even a photo of yours so as i know which 1 to get?
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Is it the blue or the red 1 that works?
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I have no idea either about the 7075, like you i just have to go on what it says