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Picked up the Serpent today - as a roller. Very tidy machine and lovely all round. It just looks fast! Can't wait to get it up and running Got an OS .21 VSpec to go in it.. Shouldn't be long til im down Frankley testing her out!

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make boards too short. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh censored'. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. ADJUSTABLE SPANNER: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used for the creation of blood-blisters. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VICE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for igniting various flammable objects in your shed and creating a fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles to test wall integrity. Very effective for digit removal !! HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut large pieces into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the waste bin after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of all the crap you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. COMMON SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50p part. PVC PIPE CUTTER: A tool used to make plastic pipe too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. BIGGER HAMMER: Same as a normal hammer but larger in size and weight. Used to make things that don't fit, fit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door. Works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund cheques, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. SON OF A BITCH TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a bitch' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Hes an idiot if he works in a hobby store and has given you that info frankly. Brushed escs are rated a lot higher than 20 amps, all Mtroniks escs are rated in turns normally so id stick the standard motor in there as long as its over 20 turns.

Any help? DIY Suspension/steering links Not quite as tidy as kit-issue, but great for real bashers or prototyping First off, the hardware (UK sourced); Pipe cutter; http://www.screwfix.com/p/tube-cutter-3-28mm/49428 M4 nuts Taps http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/drills_taps_&_dies.htm 6mm x 4mm thru Alu tubing and M4 steel studding from B&Q (about 2 quid a metre I think for each) Ball-ends big enough to take studding Tools; Drill (not critical, just makes life easier) Decent side cutters Vernier/Set of calipers An allen key or something to fit thru the ball in the ball end 2 Tamiya tools or a couple of spanners etc to fit nuts Stella Ok, the fun bit The pipe cutter Decide/measure length of link (remember to allow for 2 nuts in overall length) Then, lock vernier in place so jaws won't move Hook one jaw over the end of tubing, and use point of far end to scratch a line on the tube wall - Doesn't need to go thru, just be visible Use mark for setting cutter in right place. Tighten up cutter and rotate tube to start cutting - You may have to re-tighten cutter 4 or 5 times to cut all the way thru For a bit quicker turnaround, use the drill to do the turning SLOWLY) Ok, tube is cut to length. Next, thread 3 nuts onto the studding Use the 2 nuts nearest the end to reflect tubing length, remembering to leave enough sticking out to go into ball-end The third one (far right) is to cut up to - between nuts 2 and 3 Cut between nuts 2 and 3. These side cutters will cut thru in one go, but you may have to just bite into studding, rotate it 90 degrees, then bite again, depending on the cutters. You'll end up with this; Cutting the studding wrecks the thread, so now you need to unthread the nut from the cut end to re-form the thread. If need be, take the other nut off of that end too, just to make sure thread is good. Then (and this is the PITA bit) thread one nut back on the cut bit and down to the other end . This is just to make sure you CAN get the nut back on! Now, remember the third nut? That is to reform the thread on the offcut - in case you need to make more than one link See, mashed gooood! Ok, so with a nut on one end, slide the tube over the studding, and put the 2nd nut on the end, then tighten them up Tap the ball ends (M4 in this case) - GO SLOW WITH THE DRILL!! Use the allen key to help stop the ball-end spinning in your fingers Thread the ball-end on (using allen key again and a Tamiya tool to turn link) Ball-end on the other end and vwaaaallaaaaa You can also use tubing for making travel limiters for shocks - Limits articulation to stop your tires rubbing the body

I was over on Tamiya club researching tamiya trucks before i buy one and stumbled across these two build threads. One thread for the Tractor unit and the other is for the Reefer tailer. The quality of the work is amazing and the finished products are works of art! Trailer thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=67409 Tractor thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=67179

Hi is there 2 new axail vehicles being released, Ax 10 deadbolt and a scx10 g6 rtr

as above, i have a tt01. its stock at the moment so what do you want to off load to me

Been flying today on a new location just 2 minutes away from my home Just love it and the weather was perfect today also.

anyone want to see some pictures?? https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151910016488891&type=1&l=72df9c6ec4 did it work?

biggaz is selling one mate

If your on a tight budget 40wt all round is always a good start

Sorry to say this but Antics bloke is wrong right. The number doesn't refer to the turn limit on the motor.

I've found with most escs if there's a number in there with no a for amps following then it relates to the turns it can handle, probably not so with all escs but all iv encountered so far are like this

More than one I think pmsl

Cool, lets have a MSUK party at Rug Racers, I'll bring cake =D

Got yet another nitro deliveted today. Carson Spector 2 Got a traxxis tmaxx 2.5 given for nowt last week. A couple of servos and rx and tx, eh presto And finally my lil 1/10 hpi firestorm Kids have put claim to the most recent arrivals. Lol Sent from ickle wickle phoney woney

Took it to the track with the intention of trying different setups. Damp track = ice rink. Spent most the day like this;

Thanks everyone, always good to put faces to names(and avatars) I have 250 photos to look through and some videos, will pick out a few and if you want the other 5 frames per second of your car in action I'll email post/email them

Ello bud, long time no see. Not a clue what the rc is though.

Just fitted the Gmade XD Piggyback shocks 103mm to the XTM Crawler and what a differance to the stock ones 100% better,mind you I have not field tested them yet but going by the bench test I cannot see any issues..

thank you mr solberg...i'm please to tell you that you have passed your driving test

If compression and spark are good, then a few drops of fuel in the plug hole should at least get it firing as OHO has suggested. If she quits once the fuel is burnt and won't restart you most likely have a carb issue. Also remember plugs can be funny things, I have known them provide a perfect spark when out of an engine, but not when fitted. It might be worth swapping it anyway just to completely rule it out.

All i know is what you can read online. There are having great success in the us. They have been winning blinky and boosted. They look easy to work on. I will be doing a build review as soon as i get mine. Should be next week

Here are a few brands to avoid when you buy, acme racing, hsp, himoto and anything on nitrotek.com.

Yes that is unfortunately common from stock box setup. This actually throws a lot of people off when setting the idle. You have effectively extended the linkage so the servo isn't holding back the carb from closing. Smart move mate Not sure what u mean by that,.Always run your model with zero throttle trim! or at specified trim for your linkage. never change this. But when starting from cold, you can increase the trim (open carb some) to get her started, just note that the carb will close to "set position" when you apply the brakes; meaning the engine may stall which means you don't have breaks till the trim is returned to your "set position Sounds like interference of some sort bud. Have you tried with just one servo connected? Do you have another rx to try? Perhaps bench test or ensure rx aerial cable aint near metal.

I'm up and ready...

showing me age Herts was formly known as sandy as raced there for a period http://www.hertsnitromodelclub.co.uk/index.php?ID=12

I'll have the Durango roller please. You have a reply to your message. Cheers Rich.

Dedication that is will, is Danny coming? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2

Lewis It was on blue Peter that one Some good pics of people

I need to leave the house by 07:15!

My firestorm stole my savage body

Had a friend make up a custom grille for my body shell. Epic

Little update

I loved mine till I dropped it and the screen broke. Even then, Absima sent out a replacement FOC which was great of them. It feels a little basic but as mentioned, I also found it better than the Flysky (even though its the same product just different design). I now use their upgraded version the CR4T and overall, very happy with their products. I would give them a thumbs up both for product and customer support.

lewis hamilton was rcing at 6 years old @ sandy off road track His F1 drive with iphone

Another high end touring car to set up =D Bit different but really nice to work on, kinda makes others look silly in this respect and the respect of quality and dimensional tolerance. I'm overjoyed =D About to go give it a shake down =D

it come through the post this morning, currently i have swapped over the suspension from it to my rush evo which surprisingly works well on the car, the engine turns over with decent enough compression and has nearly started a few times just need to figure out a proper way of starting it

Wow its quite amazing how different it looks and i have to agree the tyres look ace, so these are 2.8" mashers mmmm will have to rethink my choice, good job ive not ordered any yet lol

Nothings stock ... Ever Where'd the fun be in that Jack

My wheels and tyres arrived this morning.

surely you don't have to do anything? you have been refunded. you have bought another mount. He is now apparently sending the mount out of his own good will - you have no liability to pay him. If it turns up... accept it and see what the quality is like. Sending it back via postal service and refusing it at the door just seems odd. If it is no use, then see if he wants to pay to have it returned. If not bin it. if it is good then I might have it off you... or I'm sure someone else on here would. send the proceeds back to him or keep them as your conscience dictates.

just purchased my switchblade from jolly_roger_uk .will install my spektrum this week and have her out next weekend,get some dirt on her.

Get a Switchblade mate from Jolly_roger_uk. Simple and every effective. And for a few extra quid you can get a slightly different version so you can connect lights to it if you want.

where in london dude..I'll solder it for a bag of cheese and onion crisps ?

Just been having some fun in the garden with the hyper 7. Not a long video just messing about. Enjoy

Thanks once get new shell will finish it nicely using 2 turnigy 5.2 2s, the trays are caster fusion's brief footage