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think carls too scared to come on now incase dave the rave whips him!

Fitted a 1717 to my HPI Super 5sc. Then tested it briefly. Bearing in mind that the car no longer has a gearbox with it's reduction gears, I was unsure if the 1717 would cope with a direct drive set-up. Well, the testing was a moderate success, if you like a car that screams off the line, trying desperately to rip it's tyres off! This was on 6s, I'm about to try 5s. In short, I can confirm that the 1717 is the absolute animal that everyone says it is. And don't forget that this is with the gearbox and it's reduction gears removed! More to follow! I'll do a full thread eventually.

they use 48dp gear. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-48-dp-pinion-13-teeth/rc-car-products/13809

Reet off to durham AGAIN! gonna meet in bnq opposite where the usual bash site is and see if we can use the undercover section as fully approved and guaranteed by KARMA (drift king dingaling), we will then decide if we need to move to old bash site or industrial estate round the corner. postcode on map takes you to bash site, follow the arrow that disappears lol! If ya have owt for sellings bring it along and bring ya boot chocka block just incase someone wants something random, also bring couple of hundred quid cash "just incase" theres a bargain (which wasn't discussed in this section) WHO IS COMING! BIGGAZ BEEFCAKE 2000 CARL ME BABY KARMA JASABELLE RAV (IF HE GETS OFF AT THE RIGHT BUS STOP) MICK ANDY PANDY (MAKES THE GIRLS CRY) DALEX

anyone got any bits for blade 130x,blade nano cpx,blade msr please? tried looking on ebay for a bulk of spares but can only find single items cheers

strange looking thing that lol looks like its been well pimped out like

Still not sure what's the front or back like lol And changed the wheels to bigger ones

After a long and comprehensive test period by several top drivers from the Netherlands, Denmark and Germany on various circuits in Europe, during training and official races, it is now possible to equip both the 23 and the 26 cc Zenoah engine (two or four bolt) with this special (EFRA / IFMAR approved) race ignition. This complete ignition kit replaces the original flywheel and coil, by a special flywheel and corresponding coil, and a lightweight CNC machined cooling fan. The smaller flywheel and special ignition coil supplies the engine over the entire rpm range with significantly more torque. The engine revs much faster , because of the reduced rotating mass, but also the maximum rpm which is reached on the track will be higher than with any other ignition. The set consists of: Rotor + Special ignition coil CNC machined cooling fan Mounting plate for ignition coil Screws for mounting User manual in English language The ignition kit itself can be mounted following the user manual. Source : hrc-parts

not sure lol I liked the look of it ,and its completely custom :-)and faster than it should be lol

Ive got nothing to part ex with but how much do you want for it and where do you live?

finally finished work :-) well till 8am lol Beefy that looks like it would use a magnet to make the line ,car brakes line to give time, so as long as its a strong magnet it should work if made wider So lads what's forsale :-P ( just kidding Dave)

Bump ovno

phil mitchells barber pmsl

Moved to a new track so we deicded to have a quick 5 minute race and what a finish love this hobby.Track is unfinished so finish line is in the middle of the chicane before straight

SOLD PENDING PAYMENT!

try this

Dom??? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HPI-BAJI-/261307815040?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3cd728d480#ht_1291wt_992

I'm laughing as I type this, NOT having a go at you, but REALLY? That doesn't help! ROFL!

Got 2 more for the bash, Ian and Rob. A lot of you will recognise them as they come to the Thetford and Bawsey a lot.

that will be the one mate ;thumbsup: living a cracking life over here, well its got a bad appetite for drive shafts but i shall sort that soon hopefully

not bad price, i have, i think, a proline hummer shell so it sits behind the bumper but close(ish) to it so if i get some i may have to either mod it or move it back a tiny bit.

it makes financial sence knickers ! buying a 3M means not buying two HW150a when one goes pop ! plus you get warranty which is UK based (logic RC) (and no...I'm not on hebby comission...I just like to see people buy a good ESC)

Good lad in the right section..... I like that Pmsl

just following you mate :-P:-P

Sorry - can't afford to feed family but can afford PC and internet connection, or is it shiny new smartphone/tablet etc? There are some people who seriously love to milk the system. Whilst it annoys me because its me who has to work to pay for them at the same time I kinda get it - systems broke so why not? Problem I find is that when I meet young people who tell me they don't need to learn because the state will give them everything they need, I'm finding it harder and harder to argue......

Yeah including the rules on here lmfao

But it's Rav he can break 'anything' A loooooonnnnnng time ago !!

Took the scx10 out earlier with one dead battery and a fully charged one but without the adapter plug. ARSE!

Right just got done sorting this so thought i'd share it .. So today missus post lady brought me these There a set of light's for the front just a bolt on job and they come all soldered up with all the connectors fitted, also they have a full instruction leaflet so no need me going through it with you ..Instead a few pics fitted and working .. Only bummer is they have no switch but there is an external JST plug you can unplug for when you want them off ..I may fit a switch at a later date thou but for now i'll just pull the plug when i want them off .. Just a little bit of fun really

Same as you. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42935__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_3520KV_80A_UK_Warehouse_.html

if your running the ae-2 esc you should be ok. i run 2s lipo`s in my scx10 with no problems with that esc and i get roughly 2 1/2 -3 hrs from a 5300 30-60c 2s lipo

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/181933-castle-mamba-monster-esc-inc-warranty-2000kv-motor/ plus some corrosion X ...and you are laughing

Hi can I use a castle sv3 with a 7700kv motor brushless, setup in a axail dingo, for trail tracks, or can you recommend a motor to use with the sv3. Cheers

No point of buying anything like Keyence to be honest Chris, not especially when you are going to be dipping your toes first Dive later. A few things to consider, a cheap motor/esc will do you for now but personally I wouldnt even buy new at the minute. 1. A sensorless motor for drifting will work but since you use quite a slow speed generally when drifting, you might have cogging at the speeds required making it difficult to get a smooth drift going. Recommend a sensored option. 2. ANY chassis will do but it all depends on how much money in the long run you plan to invest. Personally get a feel for drifting and look at some videos online. I wouldnt spend that much on a TL01 or a TT01 for a matter of fact. You can pick up a dedicated drift chassis up for quite cheap. A lot of people on Facebook are selling up so if you find you do like it and want to continue, finding second hand parts is a breeze 3. Invest a variety of springs, oils and most importantly the shocks themselves. Shocks are the different between making a car slide and making a car drift. 4. Find a local club, in fact with your location, Radshape RC in Birmingham is perfect! They have cars, a D1RC drifter who now works there and amazing staff. Did I mention they have a track which is available to use for a small fee? Honestly getting down even to watch is a good idea. There will be some regulars there and im sure if you drop me a PM, ill see if I can organise a few of us from London to pop down and im more than happy for you to have a rip with mine. 5. Find a surface which is smooth and where you can drift on for more than 5 minutes without stopping for cars, pets or even your partner. Once you have found the surface, buy the right tyres! Tyres once again are going to help a lot and not a massive investment if you look at it in the grand scheme of things. For you, same again, get in touch with Radshape and if you get David, Matt or Lee, tell them I sent ya

Any help? DIY Suspension/steering links Not quite as tidy as kit-issue, but great for real bashers or prototyping First off, the hardware (UK sourced); Pipe cutter; http://www.screwfix.com/p/tube-cutter-3-28mm/49428 M4 nuts Taps http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/drills_taps_&_dies.htm 6mm x 4mm thru Alu tubing and M4 steel studding from B&Q (about 2 quid a metre I think for each) Ball-ends big enough to take studding Tools; Drill (not critical, just makes life easier) Decent side cutters Vernier/Set of calipers An allen key or something to fit thru the ball in the ball end 2 Tamiya tools or a couple of spanners etc to fit nuts Stella Ok, the fun bit The pipe cutter Decide/measure length of link (remember to allow for 2 nuts in overall length) Then, lock vernier in place so jaws won't move Hook one jaw over the end of tubing, and use point of far end to scratch a line on the tube wall - Doesn't need to go thru, just be visible Use mark for setting cutter in right place. Tighten up cutter and rotate tube to start cutting - You may have to re-tighten cutter 4 or 5 times to cut all the way thru For a bit quicker turnaround, use the drill to do the turning SLOWLY) Ok, tube is cut to length. Next, thread 3 nuts onto the studding Use the 2 nuts nearest the end to reflect tubing length, remembering to leave enough sticking out to go into ball-end The third one (far right) is to cut up to - between nuts 2 and 3 Cut between nuts 2 and 3. These side cutters will cut thru in one go, but you may have to just bite into studding, rotate it 90 degrees, then bite again, depending on the cutters. You'll end up with this; Cutting the studding wrecks the thread, so now you need to unthread the nut from the cut end to re-form the thread. If need be, take the other nut off of that end too, just to make sure thread is good. Then (and this is the PITA bit) thread one nut back on the cut bit and down to the other end . This is just to make sure you CAN get the nut back on! Now, remember the third nut? That is to reform the thread on the offcut - in case you need to make more than one link See, mashed gooood! Ok, so with a nut on one end, slide the tube over the studding, and put the 2nd nut on the end, then tighten them up Tap the ball ends (M4 in this case) - GO SLOW WITH THE DRILL!! Use the allen key to help stop the ball-end spinning in your fingers Thread the ball-end on (using allen key again and a Tamiya tool to turn link) Ball-end on the other end and vwaaaallaaaaa You can also use tubing for making travel limiters for shocks - Limits articulation to stop your tires rubbing the body

Triple X2.

If you want to screw someone up, drill a hole in the cup, put candlewax in the hole, when it heats up, will open the hole up so it pishes everywhere