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Not sure whether I think this is good or bad. It all depends what HPI intend to do with the brand. They already have Maverick for the budget side....so where does this place Hobao? They could continue to market them alongside their existing range...but it's in direct competition with the Trophy products. It can't be good to have a competitor importing your products....but on the other hand...HPI must have a massive distribution network in place in the US to get the products in the shops for virtually no extra cost. Without needing to mark up prices, they would already be making more money just from what they save. I don't know how big a market slice Hobao has in the US or what the long term effect would be for us in the UK,

It has been a while since my last build/project thread so here is a brand new fresh project to rape my wallet and hopefully get the end result of some insane speeds. Project Summary The Project started off as many do with a roller as the basic platform, In this case a HN/Ofna DM1e. The Aim of this project is to attempt to go as fast as possible, With the aim to attempt to get 150Mph ...... but that isnt going to be easy at all and wont happen over night. Im predicting speeds over 100Mph this year at ROSSA (22-23rd September at long marsden airport), But to go faster Im going to be constantly tweeking the design till i get as close to my target as physically possible. As long as it wee's all over a Traxxas X0-1 I will be happy lol, but as things are going currently its not going to be much cheaper lol ...... through this build thread you will find out why -Update 15-09-12- Im Proud to announce the Prompt RC and Sirius motors will be sponsoring this project. Now all i have to do is find the warp speed button The Project Begins ........ The Chassis Being a complete Hong Nor fan boy I set about my piles of HN spare to see what stock parts fitted over std items. I discovered the CR X1 alloy chassis braces were a straight swap, and the Rear dogbones (as standard) were replaced with CR CVDs again a straight swap. I wanted to give the front end a bit more strength so I invested in a CNC shock support. The end result was: The stock setup runs dog bones in the center, I have currently found a kyosho CVD that fits the rear, but unfortunately the front CVD option is currently evading me atm. There are a few things that I have learnt from doing speed runs with 1:8 Buggys which i really want to apply on this build, mainly being aerodynamics and taking into consideration of all the forces at play when pushing a RC well beyond its original design. My first hurdle to over come is to make a smooth chassis to fill as much of the body on the car as possible, the main purpose of this is to reduce the amount of air that can get trapped under the body shell and to try and use some ground effects to keep it planted to the tarmac. As a prototype chassis I invested in some 4mm thick alloy sheet its not light at just under 2kg, but If the design works this year and the car proves to be stable V2.0 will be made from carbon fibre and alot lighter lol Step 1 - Overlay Step 2 - Marking out Step 3 - Cutting out, As im pretty crap at cutting straight lines and the Diff areas need milling I asked candyman ( The god of fabrication ) if he wouldnt mind lending me his skills to cut my design out. A sum of money crossed hands, and I got a cut out chassis in return. Step 4 - Assembly of parts onto the uber chassis what it looks like from the underside with body shell fitted: I decided to drop the Standard DM1 leccy motor mount in favor for the New RC Monster mount, one of the nice things about the new mount is its more designed for 4mm motor mounting points in mind which is good when you plan to use a large motor like the 1717. So with the prototype chassis installed, It time to consider the electronics No doubt there will be more updates on the chassis after ROSSA this year and Once the new saddle layout is finished I will be posting finished layout pictures up -Update 13-09-2012- Thanks to Andy from fast-rc.co.uk I now have sourced the second lipo tray, mounted them up and the layout is starting to look like a RC at last lol -Update 15-09-12- Finally finished soldering lipos and ESC etc, running wires and fitted a mock motor untill my Sirius 1717 arrives pic shows 8s setup The driving force behind the kit As a few of you may already be aware During testing at ROSSA this year i had not one but 2 Tekin Rx8s fail on me while running my CR speed project, Which to be honest ws a really big letdown as I expected more from the kit. But hey ho these things happen. It did however lead me to strat thinking I'm going to need the mother of all ESCs to run this beast. So after some research and some questions to Nick at Prompt RC i settled on a MGM, this one infact http://www.modelspor...products/368719 . The fiddly bit came once I had the ESC there not the slap any where kid of ECS due to wires entering and exiting the ESC from front and back. So i had to have a little re think about the general layout of the chassis. In the end I decided to mount the ESC central on the chassis and rather than run one lipo tray to run 2 trays in saddle format (pics to follow once i eventually get my second tekno rc V3 tray from the US). Motor wise i will be running a 1717 Sirius and I will be testing it to its full potential up to a juicy 8s ( Power will be supplied by 2 x 3s 5000mAh 65-130 Nano tech packs then growing to 2 x 4s 5000mAh 65-130 Nano tech packs) Gearing on the Project has been all custom made thanks to Neil at RW Racing, I have a few options to run on this chassis starting with 36:30 and a insane 41:25, thankfully due to the standard design of the DM1 using a spool It was just the case of getting 8mm mod1 pinions to fit to the shaft. Steering servo was a dead easy selection for me, a faithful savox 1256Tg, I use alot of these servos and i am yet to have one fail on me Radio gear wise Im using a Spectrum DX3R Pro and running a DSM2 receiver in the case of the DM1 im using the marine MR3000 which isnt cheap but its tiny,waterproof and duel channel (meaning it will be easier to setup a mechanical break) It also has the added benefit of twin ariels so I can get the car extreamly far away and still have full control of it. When I first ran this Rx i had it installed in my CR the range was awesome, as a quick example: At the ROSSA site I can go as far as my eyes can see, so I have no complaints with range issues lol More updates to follow in this section once I have everything mounted up The Body With The kit I got a maclarren shell, but after getting it pro painted by Outlaw graphics I feel reluctant to run it. sooooo, Its going to be a shelf queen shell for when the car isnt run the other 360 days of the year lol ......... That lead me to picking up a cheap protoform shell and doing the signature bez paint job: Now to make the most out of this shell the rear wheels wont be cut out, just the fronts, Also I will be trimming the hole of the rear of the shell off to stop any parachuting effects, the knock on effect of this is i will be needing to reinforce the the top of the shell with some L shape peices of lexan to stop the air pressure forcing the shell inwards. I might even benefit from some ground effects The wing will Be chopped down, but leaving a small flap (a gerneyflap to try and keep the airflow as clean as possible) I will also be making some Huge side dams to keep it stable as possible at high speed as Ive found spinning out at 80+Mph isnt much fun lol. More pics to follow once I have found time to do these mods. - Update 9-9-12 - Well I have finally done something productive and modded the body shell for high speed: Wheels and Tyres (as pictured left to right - Ofna Onroad tyres, GRP M01 Rally A compound - my favorite, Schumacher buggy foams) To me this has to be one of the most important and over time costly parts of any RC build. What you need to be aware of when building a fast RC is the forces at play on the wheels/tyres. I have found from experience brands such as Ansmann/Fastrax/LRP and kit supplied have a tendency to fail even with moderate force in car park play. For High speed there are only 2 options in my eyes either GRP or Foams. GRP Tyres have an extensive history in RC tyre production and make a stonking tyre. I say this from experience they warm up quickly and provide a good amount of grip, add the fact they are belted in the factory(so they only have a very minimal amount of ballooning) on top of that they are pre mounted its pretty much win win. However lots of people prefer to run foams due to the reduced weight and lack of tyre deformation at high RPM. Ive used my foams a bit but untreated. Upon testing i discovered its hard to find traction from >75% throttle causing spin outs. But I am currently looking into some super sticky additives to sort that problem out. One piece of knowledge I have picked off other people running high speed is ideally you want a shore rating of 45 or greater (lower the shore the softer/more traction the foam, higher the rating the harder/less traction the foam) This is due to softer foams suffering alot of damage at high speed. Another good pointer is to balance them, so I can reduce as much as possible any excess vibration coming from the wheel. Its a simple but time consuming job but well worth the effort. You can buy special balancing rigs or DIY solutions. The Finished Project v1.0 Depending on how the runs go at ROSSA I have a future plans for a carbon fibre chassis, a bigger motor and maybe a larger ESC This post will be constantly updated and expanded, so watch this space

what a bloody good idea and i have got only fools and horses as my ring tone lol

Run away if its that. Thats not a bargain and not a good start into 1/5 scale.

Now bash it

guitars on wall are: Aria Ta-80 (black) - the guitar I play most..I've played

from RC Car Action Mark Sumner of Liverpool, England was the winner of the Summer Video Contest held by RC Car Action on Facebook. He will be receiving an Axial Racing EXO Terra Buggy, with a Futaba radio system. His video,

Things to upgrade sooner rather than later... Shock caps. Steering servo (put the original steering servo onto the throttle / brake assembly) Hump pack. Everthing else will be fine for the short term.... I saw a huge difference when adding a tuned pipe.

There are loads of running in guides on the internet! choose one at your leisure. My favourite is the 10 tank running in guide where you gradually increase the throttle you use over the course of the tanks, with 1/4 increments. In terms of upgrading and carrying spares, see what breaks first then upgrade it or replace it. The first thing I would be looking at changing is the servos with some savox units of some sort (1258/56) on throttle and steering respectively. Don't go all blingy though with the alloy, just replace stuff that may need alloy replacements i.e. the uprights and hubs. Remember, if it hits an object, the shock and power of the crash might not bend the alloy component, but it will be passed through the car and break something else so worth bearing that in mind.

12 volt I think it is

Nice one lad! Hope your a Toffee!

Woop's- bad luck! would of loved to see a vid of that though sorry couldn't help but laugh when I read that.

Join us over in the trophy owners thread mate,. We'll try and put up an up to date check list for you before u run. As mentioned extra set steering knuckles and perhaps arms is a good start on spares. Then theres the upgrades if you choose to go down that path,. Two things not mentioned here are: Stock airfilter--> water proof one sucks very little air, recommended replacing immediately Stock steering servo-->Is unfortunately close to being considered junk. It's good enough for throttle/brakes though.

Oh, if it came out the side you just spun it up to hard, oopsie.

My mummy made me wait till i was 38 !

great one mark well done,,, i think the most i have ever won was a tube of signal 1 tooth paste when i was 7 out of the local paper or it could of been my mum making it up so i would brush my teeth

I can't imagine anything HPI could do to improve parts support any better than it is...... Atleast for the Hyper 7. The Ebay chop shops ensure there is a virtually unlimited supply of dirt cheap new spares for that thing......

Well i need to go get some fuel on Saturday cos mario is demanding an outing god he is pushy! I've explained to him it can't be a weekly thing but he won't listen

yep it was yes it was, it dwarfs my poor likkle Hyper

and the cost will go up l

You could also turn the epa down on the throttle to limit any potential danger.

Could really rage at the comments in this thread lol. Its the GT-86 Formerly known as the FT-86 concept. And 29 years ago its big brother was called the Toyota Corrolla Trueno GT-Apex. Or AE86 for short. I have driven the GT86 went with my Mum on here test drive and took it round Buelie in the new forest. Handles just like the original car. Nice and tight in the corners But lift your foot for 2 seconds and the back end comes around nicely. Its sharp and very responsive it weighs absolutly Naff all. so a 200bhp Boxter Engine Is more than enough. It will eat most cars for breakfast round a narrow country lane because its easy to keep the boxter engines in the powerband that coupled with a light weight chassis and TRD developed Coil over system makes it stick to the road beautifully. Show me a Brand spanking new car that is as fast looks as good and handles as well For the asking price of

Where I use my car is a massive open grass area with no roads, kerbs, walls etc so I guess the answer is to give him full control and see how he goes!

That's me

love this truggy bro . we have the same taste in drinks costco 12 for

SPOT on pal I never win out.

Absolute result! EBay customer services have found in my favour and have said I have to get a full refund including original postage costs. Even better, they have emailed me a prepaid postage label for the return, I'm not out a penny! Time and stress yes, but no money! Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Get invovled mate. Ratman here runs spiky tyres on astro, myself and sam are rubber on carpet. But I don't think this thread is really about 'here's my set up sheet run it and win' but more 'I'm going to try this on my car, I'll let you know what it does'. Got my 2.5mm lower deck today. No time to have it ready for racing tomorrow so will get it prepped over the weekend and fitted next week. Also if I have time I have my TRF201 buggy back and I will dismantle the shocks on it to see if the top caps will work with the current lowers. Going to run the customised chassis tomorrow with that new set up I posted. Hopefully get something useful from it to get me started on setting up with the new chassis but the 2.5mm is a lot stiffer than I expected.

It is a straight 6...

I would honestly only have a superbee over any kill switch . Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2

HTH

Yawn, same old from Apple, nothing new.

your esc and motor combo needs to be twice the size and half the KV. unless you're after blue smoke that is...

i will be giving that a miss then, its more like a blanket heather than a blower then!! might have to get creative of this and make some sort of direct ram air induction type blower ... we will see what happens.. loads new parts turned up today, two new wheel bearings for the rpm rear arms hpi savage wheel hexs and nuts to try to stop the wobble, 10awg cable for my re-wire and some gloss shrink wrap to tidy the wiring.

decided to dye the chassis tonight while the misses was watching 3 hours of soaps , fitted a servo and a tekin redline motor..... i also removed the rear fenders, and applied a few more decals looks alot better now,