Leaderboard

11 years ago when I was 14 I worked every Saturday and sunday all day at a sweaty old mushroom farm, picking shrooms in the near blackness in dark sheds- it was quite miserable and knackering And often only came out with about 20 or 30 quid for my 2 days work, I got 11.5 pence for every lb of shrooms I picked! Anyway I did that job giving up my precious weekends and only seeing my mates at school for well over a year, in that time I managed to save enough to buy a new t-maxx pro.15 plus loads of alloy upgrades which subsequently bent! Oh how we learn....

You need to check for play, as that is a clear indicator of wear. If a bearing sounds rough, I bin it. Yes...it can be dirt... but that means the shields have failed and the rollers have been running in grit. That means they will tend to wear a lot faster. Cleaning them out won;t get all the dirt out from behind the rubber/metal shield. There ar eother visible signs, like the shield itself falling out! RC bearings are quite cheap if you shop around, and I tend to find it's better in the long run to replace a bearing if in any doubt were it is in a critical position. The cost of a bearing is less than replacing a ruined clutchbell/spur gear, messed up hub etc.

Source: Kyoshosan

just read the post again make that 2 large cans....

Tell the post to hurry up, I want to see these german bits

right first one http://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4 order 4# 6x10x3 bearings to go where page 10 part# 191000011 is and also 4# 4x7x2.5 flanged bearings to go in akermann plate to replace the flanged washer part# 115000640 that sorts stearing out now get these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caster-Racing-K8-Truggy-Brake-Pads-Shoes-CRZK80052-/230775012970?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bb433e6a as the ansmann ones dont last longthats brakes then its springs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130562428064?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 these are the strongest big bore spring i've found so far also http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220981383873?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 if you use a powerfull servo this is what you'll need also look for the ansmann throttle servo horn its worth it right stearing servo this is your best bett at a budget unless you go savox http://www.sdshobby.net/xq-power-digital-6v-servo-s4020d-20kg575g-with-titanium-gearalu-case-p-2621.html its got to be 15kg at 6v or higher throtle servo now this will do http://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-high-performance-race-servo-high-speed-/rc-car-products/359785 engine http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hong-nor-f.28-4.6cc-pullstart-engine/rc-car-products/28777 more than enough power just watch the temp with them the force engines are prone to leaks from factory most important upgrade suspension pins replaced with bolts and nuts these for lower front and back http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-x-70-STAINLESS-ALLEN-BOLT-CAP-SCREW-6-PACK-/320652736281?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item4aa8647719 plus some m4 lock nuts and for front upper arms use these bolts http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-pcs-x-M3-X-40-STAINLESS-A2-ALLEN-CAP-HEAD-BOLTS-/160541207950?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item2561006d8e and m3 lock nuts only need to but spares come in handy and work out cheaper than the origanal pins right think that covers standard stuff now posible upgrades #1 sideguards http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270859604945?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648 #2 mud guards http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320878431168?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 take a bit of drilling but have seen them fitted #3 bodyshell http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ansmann-racing-terrier-2.0-brushless/rc-car-categories/1154/9900/990010&ChassisID=820#top standerd one but told any truck/truggy shell should fit do a search somone had a savage shell on one #4 wheels and tyres xtm grinders fit with the right wheels also if your on road use these http://www.modelsport.co.uk/ansmann-racing-truggy-tyre-rim-lpr-street-2-black/rc-car-products/37977 #5 wing posts the hyper 8 alloy ones fit not got link but their on rbay right places to get parts ie ebay shops #1 http://stores.ebay.co.uk/jkrcuk #2 http://stores.ebay.co.uk/LA-modellbau-powered-by-womsel/1-8-Ansmann-Terrier-/_i.html?rt=nc&_dmd=1&_fsub=210616019&_sid=23593799&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14&_vc=1 think that covers most of it Fatboy

how much for a mat without any stickers? how much are the mats normally brand new by the way if you do not mind me asking?

Go pick it up! That'd really pee him off

Blue Thread lock's for you my friend

it's because it was the one of the best trophy's ever upgrade wise!

How about a cocky German? Didn't paint it myself and it doesn't look like this anymore

As title ordered these and I need the 1/10th ones so these are for sale , brand new in packet not fitted Will post 1st class recorded for

Awesome build, i love the fact its a

Well things have taken a dramatic turn today, we went back to cw to have the phone put back through the system and the guy said we should have kept quiet as we would have ended up with a free phone. When he tried to put it through again it wouldn't work and a call to head office revealed that the deal has been pulled so he couldn't redo it, things then got heated as he said I couldn't have the phone back as I had handed it back in now, by now I was fuming as I have spent many hours on the phone trying to sort this over the weekend and had fully customised the phone with all my wifes details, contacts, photos etc etc and he expected me to just walk out of the shop with nothing. He sarcastically said that I could keep the unregistered sim and handed it to me which I then threw back at him telling him where to stick it at which point he ordered me out of the shop, I refused to leave until I had seen him wipe the phone clear of my wifes things which he was unable to do as I had put a pin lock on it, he handed the phone to my wife to enter her pin so I told her to give it to me to do and I then took the phone from her and walked out of the shop with him telling me he was calling the police as I had stolen it, Yeh righto, we have the receipts and signed contract and it hadn't even come from that branch, CCTV will also clearly show him handing back the phone to my wife before I took it from her. Sat back at home now waiting to see if the boys in blue turn up but as far as I can see the only person guilty of theft is him as he still has the box LOL

You nutter I won't be running in the rain, just a bit of protection from the hidden puddles. You got any left for Dan? He showed me a video of his Hyper yesterday, its nuts

just ran it in the rain thoru big puddles the lot! well chuffed all i did extra was i put loads tape around where the cables come out the lipo to stop water getting down in there, and taped up the balence cable ESC and reciver have been done with acf50, seems to be working dude

yeah i have seen the hpi ones and they are good but they aint ........ good luck with the build, if you need help drop a message, ill be watching this pal

Oh dear, it looks like I'll be able to make it

thats good just need my good mate steve to go

Hi Ting, hey Tower Hobbies have got the MIP CVD's on offer at the moment (unless you have bought them already. Heres the link http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&P=IA&I=LXXDN2

the other thing about buying your own cars etc is you'll not thrash them so hard of break them as easy, or atleast when you get only

i Know him and he would just bash

What he said , or a micro dt

Dont get any of the servos linked and even though I use them it includes the power hd aswell get this one http://www.modelsport.co.uk/alturn-usa-high-performance-race-servo-high-toque-/rc-car-products/359784 A lot better than the ones you linked and faster than the power hd and yes you have snapped a tooth at full lock so sort the end points first before installing a new servo as a metal geared one might break your car Fatboy

I'll come on her alright

classic =)

I got the stuff on a roll ( 3M ) but I might pick up some of those pads too...They would be neater. Got the shell mounts finished today, and I am quite pleased with teh end result. The rear mount is an upside down Hyper rear shock tower. I wanted to buy a spare front tower as I thought I would need to use one at the back to keep the height down, but it turned out I didn't. I got a pair for pennies off E-Bay. I used the new front tower as the one on the donor had a kink in it and a few scrapes...and the one I bought was off a new truck. So that meant I had a spare rear tower. Flip it over and the shock bolts go through to anchor it. I then attached 2 spare body posts I had lying around to the top of the tower. Solid enough and does the job. Front body mount is a Stampede rear mount screwed through the front shock tower. Job done. Now in the process of making bumpers and new side guards to keep the muck out of the car

Hi MattB+ Turn firestorms upside down, turn wheels left see the little screw? take it out, put on a drop of blue threadlock and tighten up, just snugg. turn wheels right and repeat process. Turn firestorm right way up. Remove left wheel, see the bolt in the top of the carrier? snug it, theres one in the bottom to, snug it. replace wheel. remove right wheel. repeat process. these last four bolts will need doing after every bash. tighter steering HTH Jason ======================================================================================= UPDATE: Was out today, when the firestorm cartwheeled and it wouldnt steer properly one way, and I new straight away it was related to the above post. I turned the car upside down and sure enuff the Bolt was missing..... Well only the screw head was missing, it had snapped of and left the thread in part no 5 from stalk 100320 (servo saver set), luckily I had a spare one just in (cheers dave), But I did'nt have a Bolt, Then I saw the Bolt and nut for for the rear wing which is no longer used, This bolt fitted just right and I was able to do a field repair and carry on playing. I dont know what caused the bolt to snap, but it's good practice to keep the above spares in your parts tub. Theres plenty of room in the firestorm steering area, so when i've had a Brew, I'm gonna see if I can modify both the bolt's with longer equivelants and a pair of speed nuts thread locked in place, or maybe a single locking nut. Update 2: I got the callipers out and measured up and it's going to be: 2 x M3 16mm Button head screws 6 x M3 washers 2 x M3 Locking nuts use threadlock Tighten the nuts down to just before they bind the steering.(dont overtighten the car wont steer) Couldn't get out this weekend to field test, so will post back next week. Update 3: M3 16mm screws are two long, (Choice was 12mm, too short, 16mm too long), so remove exess with a dremmel, I stripped the steering down to oil it, Bolted the steeriing saver together Like this Screw/ washer/ servo saver/ Washer/ Arm/ washer/ Locking nut. and the dremeled the excess thread off level with the nut. Sorry about grainy picture, it's a snugg fit, but had no problems with the nut catching on the upper brace. I did try a speed nut, (half thickness) with thread lock, but this too worked loose. Finally had a days bashing and the steering didn't fail.

Hi guys, got a little mini guide for you here, some may have this problem, some may not... my lipo's came the other day... they were a tight fit as they slot under the rear shock tower and the battery brace wouldn't slot in between the two! so i thought i could cut the part of the brace that slotted between the two off, as its not really needed because they are tight under the shock tower, but i didnt really want to start cutting it about. then i thought about making a new battery brace just for the front, but i thought i would try something without changing anything... so here we go... What you need: 2.5mm hex driver 8 washers (roughly 1mm thick) mine had 5mm holes and were a perfect fit... use what you want though (doesn't have to be 8, it depends on the thickness of them and how much extra clearance you need) 1. undo the 4 hex head screws holding the shock tower on, the car will drop whilst the shock tower will "float" in the air, being held up by the shocks. 2. Slot the 8 washers over the holes where the screws slot in, i used 2 for each screw hole. 3. Screw the shock tower back in place, it should be roughly 1-2mm higher depending on your needs and thickness of washers. Now test fit the battery and brace, add or take washers until the clearance is sufficient to your needs Here is a couple of pics of my finished mod: Hope it helps, stretch may link it to the main thread, do so as you please Thanks, Cam

my scalers in action

some ppl just like to moan tho. if they are pleasant i`d just apologise and move on, if they are nasty i`d just give the same back. simple enough really.