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http://www.modelsport.co.uk/

here http://www.jespares.com/?gclid=CMy_5KyKiKUCFSr-2AodpiCZNQ and here http://www.bmmracing.co.uk/

great shop http://www.modelspor...tegoryID=992010 EDIT dam you beat me to it lol

That email addy comes back to this person on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/profile.php?id=737280534 And I searched our database for that email addy, it comes back to someone banned from here. ''dannylovesoraphan''. Infact, they have reregistered too as the Original Poster of this thread, so I've banned that account. Good detective work guys!

I have to agree... The Condor is a pile of Cack. It has some rather annoying design flaws and as there is practically no hop-up market for it your really limited to what you can do about it. 5 or so years ago, the Engine in them was pretty forgiving to newcomers, but these days i hear of more problems with being able to tune them than anything else, leading me to believe that that aspect of them has gone down the pan too... Trust us on this one. The condor is False economy in the long run... And if you get a bad one, it will be an untunable mess... If you do get one regardless of our advice, there are a couple of "Must have" Upgrades for it to make it semi-ok. 1:- Rear alloy bulkheads. (Where the shock tower attaches to the stock bulkheads is 2 tiny plastic tabs, each has 2 screw holes drilled into them. As the shock tower has no other support, any bad roll, or landing will snap these 2 plastic tabs easily.. The alloy ones are a bit tougher...) 2:- Hardened steel Diff pinion gear, (The main pinion gear inside the diffs is made of some poorly cast cheese... And you will strip them regularly. Replace them with the hardened steel diff pinion and they should be ok, althogh the rest of the diff gears have upgrade parts available too, the only real provlem is the main pinion. So i wouldnt worry about the rest.) 3:- Alloy diff cases. ( Basically, the stock diff cases compound the above problem, the screws strip and the diff cases move about half a mill apart under load, this causes stripped gears..) Bottom line though, I wouldnt, wait until you can afford something a bit better or look at a 1/10 nitro from a more reputable company as one of two things will happen with the condor.. A:- by the time youve got it to an OK level, it will have cost you the sort of money that would get you a 1/8 Hong Nor X1CR or simmilar. B:- You will get frustrated by its constant breaks and non-tuneability that it will leave a bitter taste in your mouth and you will give up the hobby in disgust before starting..

fine i was partly joking about the "no rep for you" but still, modelsport is verrrryyy good imo

Well i can not sleep so thought i would sort some of my cars out, now i've just got to hope the wife does not wake up

pointless and probably expensive. Its like those transmitter gloves....

it's about a second faster than a fuel bottle, but in a race 1 second can be he difference between winning or losing!!!

try recalibrating esc with radio again an see if that sorts it.

sounds like you need to adjust the turnbuckles on the lower and upper arm at the rear, so the dog bone cant come loose. you shouls have a bit of play in it but not to much. any chance of a pic or the rear end. just so i can confim my theory?

The same reason why millionaires buy classic Ferraris, to enjoy owning them and to have something you just can't find on the highstreet.

you want to get your self these trust me

Just bought a watt meter with $1 shipping. Thanks for the tip off. Shame they don't stock HobbyWing ESC's in the DE warehouse.

sorted the rear shox/ cage brace got the rear cage section sorted starting to take shape, exhaust is going to be interesting

I'd get so much gunpowder from those if i dismantled them he he! what you do is leave the powder in ash trays at pubs, just a small amount, and when they drop the ash... poof! brilliant practical joke. I never said that.

I just pay a fiver and go to the one @ the Local Dog Race Track.

if you want paddle tyres for sand you can run Xrc rims which fit fg but take hpi tyres and beadlock or just run adptors. also will be making some tube susp arms to get a more wider track and to use longer shoxs. should have some pics of the rolling chassis this week