losi aftershock le problems

[wozzer]

hi all,

I have just bought a losi aftershock le this week and have had a few problems with it out of the box and now the last problem has left it unusable.

its not even broken in yet i was on my 3rd tank when the big problem happend.

first problem i had was when i first started it up it fire up then stalled then the next time i went to pull start it it was totally jammed as if the engine had seized up, in the end i managed to get it to turn over by moving the wheels and i am wondering now that this could have been the start to the last problem i had.

then after it got ticking over the next problem that took awhile to sort out was getting it to move.

The brake setup out of the box is a total joke it was setup on the servo linkage so it jammed right on and at a good throttle the car still would not move.

Iv found googling the problem i had that other people have had the same problem and a better fix is to buy the LOSI LST brake and throttle linkage because it has a better adjustment on it.

i ended up sorting it out to be drivable but it still is not 100% ok, trimming it would not work at all.

i did not know what the battery pack for the reciever and servos mAh was, i phoned up and was told that they were 1200mAh so on the slow charger i got in the combo deal would take around 10hrs to charge them after 10 hrs i disconnected everything till i was ready to use it.

Later on that day i found a photo on the losi website showing the battery pack and it said 800mAh so if someone could tell me what the actual mAh they are i would be grateful.

Today when i used the car for the first time and got it running the car started to be very unresponsive after the first take off fuel while breaking it in and then while it was next to me the reciever led light started to rapid blink and nothing worked at all on the servos i tried turning everything off and back on again and still it did the same.

I was ruling out the battery pack being flat because it had just been fully charged for the first time and thought there's no way could be flat.

I charged it up again anyway today asap and then it started to work fine again so think i might also have a faulty battery pack because it must have been flat?

unfortunately after the next tank of fuel while breaking in the truck half way though the 3rd tank i noticed a power loss on the truck but thought its just because im still breaking it in, then i noticed the back end was really digging down to the ground when accelerating which it was not doing before so i stopped the truck and inspected it to find the rear diff had gone!

really carnt believe it iv watched loads of videos on the aftershock and it looks quite a robust truck and im only breaking it in on a field going up and down on a flat surface and this has happend.

Just wanted to know if anyone else has had a similar problem or the same i just think iv got a mega faulty one and hoping it can be exchanged asap.

or are the aftershocks prone for diff problems and should i go for something else?

its not looking good at the moment with all the poroblems iv already had just hope its not the start of more problems to come in the future.

Edited January 1, 2011 by wozzer

[martin34]

wow sorry to hear about all them problems you are having.They arnt the toughest of trucks(they are still ok tho)compared to some of them around at the mo but you shouldnt have a rear diff go like that from just going up and down in a field.i would get straight back onto the shop you bought it from on Tuesday morning.

[mad4rc]

some times batteries have a memory effect from the testing at the factory.charge and discharge it a few times this is called cycling the battery. use your car to discharge it and then after your car says its flat rig up a small low voltage bulb like those you would of used in school to completely discharge it.I, m saying this method as you haven,t said what your charger is capable of , I, m presuming if its a slow charger it wont have fancy discharging capabilities. your diff going after light use is just bad luck mate I would check what is covered in your warranty.You should not need to send your entire model to them just the faulty part they will be able to tell how much you have used it and should with no hassle replace it as they will be able to see it was a manufacturing fault if its gone under light use.but you will need the full receipt for your car.I find it a good idea to find out how long the warranty is for and put the receipt in my instruction manual for that particular model then it goes in a folder with all my other cars instructions stored the same way

[wozzer]

thanks for the replys i bought the car from here modelsport online shop it came on thursday,

the charger is what i got in the combo deal with the truck its a slow charger seem mad iv also got to mess about disscharging it even though what your saying is most likely right but to me its another thing like the brakes iv had to sort out, its suppose to be a RTR ready to run out of the box and it dont seem like it to me.

I reallyy dont fancy having to take the diff off the car to send back to them to test as well its been used a few times and iv got to start taking things apart to sort out wasting my time.

i think it must be a unlucky faulty one that iv got.

what trucks are more robust then if this one is not the best?

thanks again for the help just wish i could be using it while i have got the time off work.

[baorevo]

Engine siezing up is a current thing on new engines, its just the mechanical pinch between the sleeve and piston is so tight till they are broken in they sometimes block so i wouldnt worry too much on that one.

For the battery pack seems like its ok now so thats a good thing.

Are you sure the diffs broken ? it may just be a pin screw or screw that has come loose, have you taken the diff out to inspect it? im saying that because it takes quite a lot to blow a diff and if you are on break in its not getting a lot of abuse so with a bit of luck it may not be bad.

[wozzer]

Engine siezing up is a current thing on new engines, its just the mechanical pinch between the sleeve and piston is so tight till they are broken in they sometimes block so i wouldnt worry too much on that one.

For the battery pack seems like its ok now so thats a good thing.

Are you sure the diffs broken ? it may just be a pin screw or screw that has come loose, have you taken the diff out to inspect it? im saying that because it takes quite a lot to blow a diff and if you are on break in its not getting a lot of abuse so with a bit of luck it may not be bad.

not sure if the battery is ok now because when i used it the 2nd time it was not long after the diff went.

will taking my diff apart though void my warrenty with modelsport?

you could be right though it most likely is just a pin or something but the fact thats happend out of the box does not say much for the quality of the product.

if it is a screw is it in the diff casing or outside of it?

[R46]

with truck in air rotate rear wheel happens both spin?

[wozzer]

with truck in air rotate rear wheel happens both spin?

no, without engine on if i manually turn one of the front wheels in air the other one spins on the other side.

If i do it on the rear only the one im turning spins and the one on the other side stays still.

[R46]

ok sounds like grub screw loosen off or fallen out, the wheel which doesn't spin does turn by hand?

ok lock one of front wheels whilst turning other does one rear turn or full locked up?

Edited January 2, 2011 by R46

[wozzer]

ok sounds like grub screw loosen off or fallen out, the wheel which doesn't spin does turn by hand?

thanks, yeah its spins both spin very freely

[R46]

ok you need to find out which wheel has the missing or loose grub screw, the drive shafts are present at rear wheels

[wozzer]

ok you need to find out which wheel has the missing or loose grub screw, the drive shafts are present at rear wheels

ok iv just taken one side off to get the axel going into the diff off to see if i can see anything wrong the side i took off was the right side i could not belive what has happend!

the diff cup for that side axel has snapped its quite think metal how the hell could that brake on grass?

here is a pic

[R46]

100% defective part that , get in contact with modelsport forward them pic of damage part sure they'll sort you out, why it rusty already?

[baorevo]

i was wondering about the rust too !

Damage is one of those things, happens. like R46 says just get in touch with modelsport.

[wozzer]

i was wondering about the rust too !

Damage is one of those things, happens. like R46 says just get in touch with modelsport.

its just surface rust i suppose it was wet yesterday when i was using it should clean off easy enough but dont think ill bother cleaning this part lol.

only thing im bothered about is that the axle that has broke is inside the diff casing so will particals of the metal be inside the diff mixed with grease ect... and will it end up making the life span of the diff less longer?

will i need a full diff inc the cups?

or will the whole truck get swapped for new because iv only had it a few days dont know why i should have to take things apart and rebuild when its a defected product?

[R46]

ok you have manuals if look at exploded diagrams of truck page 4 of part list here shows you how broken part fits up in diff,

i'll leave as is tell speak to shop

[martin34]

ok you have manuals if look at exploded diagrams of truck page 4 of part list here shows you how broken part fits up in diff,

i'll leave as is tell speak to shop

I agree with R46.Dont pull it apart until you have spoken to Modelsport.

[wozzer]

I agree with R46.Dont pull it apart until you have spoken to Modelsport.

will do, im not touching it now did not really want to look at the axle but in away at least i know what has gone on it now.

thanks for the help everyone ill phone on tuesday and hope its sorted soon just wish it was working now so i could have a blast on it while im off.

[martin34]

Let us know how you get on once you have spoken to modelsport .

[tomr]

Im surprised at that ive never had an aftershock but i ran a losi lst2 for years and it was a very strong truck

[wozzer]

is the part in my photo that has broke called the outdrive cup?

just been googling what has broke to see if anyone else has this problem with the losi's and looks like they are a weak spot some people have been saying its hit or miss if you get a good ones and lots of people end up upgrading to stronger aftermarket ones.

some people have said if the slipper clutch is not setup right it can rip them to bits as well is that true?

[wozzer]

phoned modelsport up today and iv sent the part thats damaged back by special delivery.

Bit of a pain having to take it all apart and then drive 10miles to post it out of my own packet for a defected part that broke just after 1 hr of use!

would have saved alot of time and money if i could have just taken a photo of it like i have here to send to modelsport and then they send me the part out asap as iv paid for something thats faulty.

i paid the extra £6 as well when i ordered so i could get it quicker while i was off its looks like im out of pocket from this deal and been left with a faulty product over my holiday that can not be used.

If i did not strip the part down then i would have had to fork out the delivery charge for sending the whole truck back out of my own pocket again!

hope it gets sorted soon and it dont happen again.

Edited January 4, 2011 by wozzer

[Kpowell911]

I first of all appreciate your dissapointment and frustration, But this genuinely will not be the first time something like this happens in this Hobby.

This hobby is all about the building, rebuilding and messing, even more so for than the using. This hobby, especially nitro, requires alot of stripping, rebuilding, tuning and buy parts. Thre are trucks out there that are useless in stock form, and have very major issues, that need rectifying before you even use them. This is what the hobby is about.

RTR doesn't mean that necessairly, Its closer to ready to rebuild.

IF you want something that runs perfect 100% of the time, when ever you want it to, you are seriously in the wrong hobby. There will be days when you will spend hours trying to start your truck before giving up and packing up and going home.

This isnt a relaible 100% use hobby, if It was I wouldnt be in it.

As said, I appreciate it shouldnt happen within the first run, But this sort of stuff is the norm. Expect to spend time and money changing, maintaining and improving your truck, cause thats what this hobbuy id about. This will not be the last time you have to rip it to pieces and spend a few hours stripping down and ordering a part, its part of the hobby, that occurs frequently.

[wozzer]

I first of all appreciate your dissapointment and frustration, But this genuinely will not be the first time something like this happens in this Hobby.

This hobby is all about the building, rebuilding and messing, even more so for than the using. This hobby, especially nitro, requires alot of stripping, rebuilding, tuning and buy parts. Thre are trucks out there that are useless in stock form, and have very major issues, that need rectifying before you even use them. This is what the hobby is about.

RTR doesn't mean that necessairly, Its closer to ready to rebuild.

IF you want something that runs perfect 100% of the time, when ever you want it to, you are seriously in the wrong hobby. There will be days when you will spend hours trying to start your truck before giving up and packing up and going home.

This isnt a relaible 100% use hobby, if It was I wouldnt be in it.

As said, I appreciate it shouldnt happen within the first run, But this sort of stuff is the norm. Expect to spend time and money changing, maintaining and improving your truck, cause thats what this hobbuy id about. This will not be the last time you have to rip it to pieces and spend a few hours stripping down and ordering a part, its part of the hobby, that occurs frequently.

thanks for the reply i know about rebuilding and stripping them down i used to race years ago but things have moved on since them days and that was a very long time ago.

it says ready to run and its not its false advertsing.

then the fact the axle went like it did in the diff straight away means this is a faulty product and really with the sales of good act it should have just been replaced for new asap.

iv just got my email back from the one i sent on sat to modelsport and its made me more peed off because when i phoned up on tuesday first thing they said that they could not pick the truck up to save me money and time and i had to end up stripping down the diff because i did not fancy forking out the money to send the whole thing back, then i had to drive 10 miles to post it out of my own pocket.

The email stated that they would arrage there courier to pick it up as if that is there procedure so why did the lad at modelsport tell me different?

this all could be sorted with just a photo sent by email of the damaged part then they could have sent me the bit i need asap.

Edited January 5, 2011 by wozzer

[NitroMan1994]

Hi

I have the same truck as you have i got it from modelsport as well but non of this happen to me and the throttle/brake set up out of the box on mine was a joke i have to adjust by my self if i don't the brake will get stock at full throttle. my battery pack have the same issue as yours so what i did is strap a 4 AA battery on shock tower as a back up because the battery pack don't last long battery lets say about 45 min then the green LED will start flashing works for me.

Edited January 8, 2011 by NitroMan1994