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HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

henzy190

By henzy190
in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums

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Chasman Newbie

Chasman

Posted
Posted

Just got my buggy 3.5, ain't run it in fully yet. I've had a truggy flux for a year or so, upgraded the servo, rear hubs and shock caps. Want to do same mods to my buggy but can't find the same HB caps I fitted on my truggy. Will these work? http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/24503/

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k20z1_types Newbie

k20z1_types

Posted
Posted

Thanks for everyone that helped me with my clutch shoe/ clutch bell problem. I ordered a new flywheel and alum. shoes and also a new clutch bell and bearings for the savage and the bell is actually a tad longer than the old savage clutch bell i had bought. Kinda weird but i guess it was just a different savage model. Anyways heres my truggy as of now and i only have one problem i am trying to combat now.

Here are a couple pics.

20130127_130058_HDR_zps3aa2ac3f.jpg

20130127_125725_zpsaddbeb84.jpg

20130127_125748_HDR_zps94406763.jpg

And the problem i am having is with stopping. When it was stock it would stop on a dime. After adding the new edit diff holders and i added the alum servo horns it hasnt wanted to stop very good. The edit holders didnt tighten up the bolts like the plastic screws so i had to put locktite on them and tighten to where i thought it should be. i left a little slack on the brake pads so it wouldnt drag thinking it would still stop good but it didnt. So i tightened them up to where it would drag a little thinking they will wear and be good but it still wont brake very good. I was thinking it was a linkage thing and tried to adjust them but no avail. If anyone could give me some advice on how to get your truggy to stop on a dime i would really appreciate it.

Thanks here are a couple more pics of the brake area...

20130127_125806_HDR_zpsa01f1c31.jpg

20130127_125831_HDR_zps543640f0.jpg

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hoggles94 Rookie

hoggles94

Posted
Posted

Top man, exactly what I was after.

Just on the brake shoe/disc, the existing screws are slack, would yu threadlock them in?

yea jus a lil blue loctite

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TrickyTris Apprentice

TrickyTris

Posted
Posted (edited)

20130127_125725_zpsaddbeb84.jpg

Firstly, you have your steering servo arm mounted incorrectly. It needs to be bolted on the inside of the horn, as it currently sits at a very harsh angle. I'd change it ASAP to avoid any additional strain or damage to the servo.

As for braking, it's most likely your "End Points" or "EPA" on the transmitter being set too low. This is often the case after fiddling around the brake linkage area, so expect to change this setting if you regularly fiddle with the brake setup. EPA is a setting which tells the servo how much to turn, e.g. brake, throttle or steer. Having this set too low (or not changed from the factory) will cause the servo to stop trying to turn as far as it can.

You can find how to set your EPA on Page 45 of the Trophy Truggy manual.

Also, a hump pack will increase the strength of your brake & steering dramatically! :thumbsup:

Edited by TrickyTris
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dajones89 Newbie

dajones89

Posted
Posted

I read on one page in here talks about a 2 speed box being fitted, maybe a savage box or just 2 speed pinions, Without looking through the 500+ pages did this happen?

trying to think of what to get to add to the bullet that can be modded pretty good.

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k20z1_types Newbie

k20z1_types

Posted
Posted

Firstly, you have your steering servo arm mounted incorrectly. It needs to be bolted on the inside of the horn, as it currently sits at a very harsh angle. I'd change it ASAP to avoid any additional strain or damage to the servo.

As for braking, it's most likely your "End Points" or "EPA" on the transmitter being set too low. This is often the case after fiddling around the brake linkage area, so expect to change this setting if you regularly fiddle with the brake setup. EPA is a setting which tells the servo how much to turn, e.g. brake, throttle or steer. Having this set too low (or not changed from the factory) will cause the servo to stop trying to turn as far as it can.

You can find how to set your EPA on Page 45 of the Trophy Truggy manual.

Also, a hump pack will increase the strength of your brake & steering dramatically! :thumbsup:

Ahh ok thanks for the tip. I will fix the steering arm and try out the EPA when i have a warm day again. I also have a 1600mA hump pack as well. Will a stronger throttle servo also help this as well im guessing?

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steph69 Newbie

steph69

Posted
Posted

I have a problem with the plate behind the pull start when you take the pull start off and the one way bearing there is another plate this has the holes for the pull start to screw into, but this plate also has four grub screws I need to get a new one of these as when putting my pull start on it has broke the holes for the screws to hold the pull start in place other words my pull start wont work as it does not sit tight , does anyone know what this plate is called and where I can get one I thought it was a slack one way bearing but its fine it is this plate that is screwewed these broken screw holes has ruined my pull start. I wil post up some photos. any help guys would be well appreciated.

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Rusty1103 Apprentice

Rusty1103

Posted
Posted

16t clutch bell is stock.

You can use grease but a lot (pretty much everyone) uses oils. Are you looking for a weight or a cst? Also what brand. I don't grease the spur gear but I do put grease on the opinions on the front and rear diffs.

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Deafty Collaborator

Deafty

Posted
Posted (edited)

No the 3.5 runs 13t pinion/clutchbell as stock and also with a 46t mid diff spur gear. (edit) Truggy spur is 50t and with 15t pinion/clutchbell stock.

Also the front and rear diffs use 15+50 on the truggy and 13+?? on buggy.

Truggy Nitro can take up to 17t without modding and 18 or hgher with a minor engine plate cut.

Buggy would be similar I imagine though remember a lower spur also increases the ratio. One option for the truggy would be too gear down spur but that leaves a rather large stone catching gap in the chassis,. :(

++

Diff Oil/Oils,.

CST is a quantified unit of measuring,

Wt is an artificial means of measuring and is not consistent!

Best bet is to use CSt measured oils then you have a real/factual means understanding other peoples selections.

Ofcoarse if you use the same "brand" as another person that is ruled out.

Most use a thick to thin strategy as in thick front,.-->thin back. For Nitro (7k,5k,3k) is a good starter or 10k,7k,5k ...heaps of options to suit your drivin style(s). Don't have link to useful diff guide at the mo but search thread "differential oil tuning" and you should find it :)

Edit Heres a link to the diff tuning guide I use

Edited by Deafty
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ShadowDEMON88 Apprentice

ShadowDEMON88

Posted
Posted

Thanks

Wheelspin decided to upgrade my order of a 15T clutchbell to a 19T clutchbell. Apparently a typo on there behalf but now I have a vented 15T and 19T clutchbell

The reason I ask is because of a strange graph I got with the clutchbell that makes out the 4.6 engine runs with a 17T but it could be refering to the savvy

Well try and get a pic up of it too see if anyone can decipher.....

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