LC racing BHC-1 1/14 buggy

[MrCake]

Hmm hopefully my 2845 will fit! Got a spare servo as well somewhere but will start out with stock and see if there is an issue with these.

[Alex97]

While I wait for the replacement servo to arrive I fitted with Corona DS238MG that I had from another build. I needed to redesign the servo mount however dropped straight in afterwards. Due to being slightly thinner than the original I've been able to add 10g of weight under it as well. 

[Alex97]

1 hour ago, MrCake said:

Hmm hopefully my 2845 will fit! Got a spare servo as well somewhere but will start out with stock and see if there is an issue with these.

So I've just had a look and with a 28mm can I reckon the smallest pinion you'll be able to fit is a 20t (stock is 21t). 

[MrCake]

Excuse my ignorance but what size motors is the plate designed for?   Would it be easier if I grabbed something smaller like a 2445?

[Alex97]

21 minutes ago, MrCake said:

Excuse my ignorance but what size motors is the plate designed for?   Would it be easier if I grabbed something smaller like a 2445?

Both 24 & 28mm however if you want to  run a smaller pinion then you'll need a smaller motor. I'd personally run what you've got and if you want to gear down then you can. 

[MrCake]

Thanks for that!

[R46]

Exciting times dms has recieved delivery of 2nd batch this afternoon hopefully i get mine tomorrow or friday🤞🏾just batterys need to sort if non of mine fit. 

 

 

 

 

[MrCake]

That is good news! No dispatch notice for me yet.

[Rebel158]

Nice thread @Alex97 

 

When I last posted (quite some time back) I was looking at building the truggy version, but the endless delays in delivery sadly put paid to that plan, and following more than a six month wait I pulled out. I'm now awaiting stock of the latest Pro version (2022 spec) at DMS and wondered if anyone has any useful insight into the build i.e. has it improved since the original iteration?

 

Also, what spares would you recommend having on hand in the event of crash breakages etc? I'm wondering if an extended front bumper is available 😅

 

 

[Alex97]

1 minute ago, Rebel158 said:

Nice thread @Alex97 

 

When I last posted (quite some time back) I was looking at building the truggy version, but the endless delays in delivery sadly put paid to that plan, and following more than a six month wait I pulled out. I'm now awaiting stock of the latest Pro version (2022 spec) at DMS and wondered if anyone has any useful insight into the build i.e. has it improved since the original iteration?

 

Also, what spares would you recommend having on hand in the event of crash breakages etc? I'm wondering if an extended front bumper is available 😅

 

 

The truggy is based off of the Emb chassis that hasn't really changed since it was released. The 2wd is a whole new design that shares very few parts. 

 

[Alex97]

The Corona servo was just a temporary fix however I've heard of at least half a dozen people have the stock servos fail on them very quickly, this ripmax servo has really good specs including a full metal case. Fortunately the size is the same as the savox mount I designed for someone the other days so all I needed to do was swap the single hole out for two, I've ordered a metal servo horn so hopefully that will arrive shortly. 

[Alex97]

Taking just over a week from China I ordered the rocket 8.5t motor, although this is slower than the other motor I was using it's definitely got a kick to it. I've downloaded an add-on to my Garmin running watch that should let me use the watch as a GPS speedometer, hopefully I can get out this weekend to see how fast it is in a stright line. I'm also planning on going over to Herts next week to use their 1/10 track.

 

[MrCake]

"No where in the manual tell you how to set the slipper up, for some this won't be an issue but could easily be for others. "

 

You are correct 🤣   Got mine to almost a roller and wasn't sure how to set it.  I was thinking putting back wheels on, holding spur and then winding nut until it stops.  Then back off 1/2 a turn?  Just conscious of damaging something if that isnt the right way.

 

Did try to initially set it before the casing got installed but then it was just spinning and I didn't have enough hands to hold the spur and both output drives.

[Alex97]

10 hours ago, MrCake said:

"No where in the manual tell you how to set the slipper up, for some this won't be an issue but could easily be for others. "

 

You are correct 🤣   Got mine to almost a roller and wasn't sure how to set it.  I was thinking putting back wheels on, holding spur and then winding nut until it stops.  Then back off 1/2 a turn?  Just conscious of damaging something if that isnt the right way.

 

Did try to initially set it before the casing got installed but then it was just spinning and I didn't have enough hands to hold the spur and both output drives.

I went about 2mm in, definitely don't go all the way then back off half a turn. 

[MrCake]

Thanks so is that 2mm of thread visible in front of the nut?  Did see that for some of the LC vehicles you would set it so that the spring was 7mm long.

 

 

[Alex97]

From the front face yes. 

[Alex97]

First proper day out with the buggy and it went ok, I reckon I got around 100-125 laps in around herts and got through 7-8 packs over 4-5 hours 

 

To start with grip roll was a massive issue, even with the car lowered I was still struggling, leaving it stock would be next to impossible to drive. I glued the side walls of the front and rear tires and trimmed every other stud off of the outside row. This helped massively and in the dry conditions to the stock tires held up well. I spent most the day switching between the stock rears and fastrax rally blocks, both held up very well however I think I got on better with the rally blocks. Due to dropping the ride heigh I had a slapping issue with the rear end when landing, adding some spacers at the bottom of the shocks massively helped and stopped the car from bottoming out. I played around with the shock positions and that helped a lot. Surprisingly the front wing really helped keep the front planted. Once I can play around with the link lengths and positions I think I'll really be able to resolve a lot of the issues. 

 

Negatives...

 

The front ball studs are far too short, if built as per the kit you only have around 4mm of thread holding the stud in place, there's over 8mm of material that the stud could screw into, I'm not sure why they didn't go for longer ones. When I kissed a piece of pipe it popped out, this happend on both sides! Longer ball studs all around I'll slove the problem.

 

The front turn buckle are like cheese, I was able to bend it back by hand, I'll be replacing these as well. 

 

Front bulk head, I think this cracked early on and was held together using super glue for the rest of the day. 

 

Due to car being so light it really struggled on some of the bumps, I ended up adding 30g of weight at the front and 40g at the rear to help keep the car planted. 

 

Positives...

 

Kit tires worked well

 

Overall the car handled well for it's size on a bumpy 1/10 track 

 

All of the breaks are easy to fix (not sure if this is a positive? 

 

 

Considering every "issue" happened in the first hour of running overall the car felt good considering the damage I'd already sustained. I'll be replacing all of the track rods with 1/10 ones and I'll be ordering another bulk head. 

[Alex97]

I've replaced all the links with Schumacher ones and added RPM ball cups for good measure. Like I said above the stock ball studs were far too short on some places so I've replaced the ones in the C hubs and rear ballstud mount with Schumacher ones. I'm going to wait for the aluminium bulkhead to come out before replacing mine, I'll araldite it back together for now. 

 

After looking over the car nothing else seems damaged or broken, I think before I run it again I'll rebuild the diff with some much thicker oil as even the 7k seems too light. I'm also painting my truggy body up so hopefully I'll get that fitted in the next few days (weather permitting)