Confessions of a TT02 Rally basher

[Shergar]

I thought I’d offer some thoughts on the TT02 as the worlds worst rally car 😁 I built it from new parts, so it is a mongrel really! No its not that bad really, but if only it had a few mm’ more ground clearance and an enclosed chassis from Tamiya it would be spot on.

 

 

The TT02 is set up for my general driving style, woodland loose surfaces, I have it set for “idiot” 😂 basically tail slides and drifts. For this I found soft springs firm dampers best, just standard Tamiya CVA hop up set - no leaks no grief. I locked up the rear diff (using diff putty) so its not solid, but still has a little give in it.  I’m running a cheap 27 turn motor (HPI Saturn), but with an 18 turn RW steel pinion which seems to give me a torquey combination for inclines. On road tarmac it does seem slow, but in the trees it seems more than quick enough when your dodging fauna and flora! The low pinon works well I find on inclines.

 

Some parts that differ from an average kit are the use of a “hard” reinforced chassis, and TT02 drift A parts (uprights and steering parts in reinforced plastic) you could buy both for under £20. I am running Fastrack rally block tyres, but with a firmer medium foam and glued to the rims. Body wise I have my Sunday best bodyshell, and ebay £15 special rally shells (which are thin) with scrim tape and glue reinforcement inside. A selection of Modelsport stickers in tactical places give additional exterior strength and crack resistance, as you will do quite a it of branch related damage in the forest 😉 Treat your basher  bodyshell as a service item 😂

 

 

Finally I have hot glue gunned a lot of the chassis crevices - under the steering, under the propshaft, by the rear battery post and between the motor and the prop rib which has affected motor temperatures  (lots of debris gets wedged here!) I probably ought to buy a Kamtec chassis shell cover! If you do nothing, this glue mod is a definite requirement along with ballraces and a  servo turnbuckle to square everything up. A bit of servo foam under the servo saver also stops debris accumulation . Some door draft excluder foam stops the battery rattling about.

 

I also recently added Yeah racing front metal drive cups and CVD front shafts which are very worthwhile for extra steering lock. (But buy BOTH ends as the CVD won't fit the standard Tamiya cups!). So far I've broke nothing (famous last words!) and the car has been used in all weathers and conditions. I have replaced the bearings at each end of the prop due to ingress and one of the wheel bearings, so I’d order some extras (Rc bearings is spot on). I let it dry off, bang the worst out, Spray GT85 oil all over, then wipe it off and pull the worst out! Every few outings its wheels off and good scrub - so far so good!

 

[turok007]

4 hours ago, Shergar said:

I thought I’d offer some thoughts on the TT02 as the worlds worst rally car 😁 I built it from new parts, so it is a mongrel really! No its not that bad really, but if only it had a few mm’ more ground clearance and an enclosed chassis from Tamiya it would be spot on.

 

 

The TT02 is set up for my general driving style, woodland loose surfaces, I have it set for “idiot” 😂 basically tail slides and drifts. For this I found soft springs firm dampers best, just standard Tamiya CVA hop up set - no leaks no grief. I locked up the rear diff (using diff putty) so its not solid, but still has a little give in it.  I’m running a cheap 27 turn motor (HPI Saturn), but with an 18 turn RW steel pinion which seems to give me a torquey combination for inclines. On road tarmac it does seem slow, but in the trees it seems more than quick enough when your dodging fauna and flora! The low pinon works well I find on inclines.

 

Some parts that differ from an average kit are the use of a “hard” reinforced chassis, and TT02 drift A parts (uprights and steering parts in reinforced plastic) you could buy both for under £20. I am running Fastrack rally block tyres, but with a firmer medium foam and glued to the rims. Body wise I have my Sunday best bodyshell, and ebay £15 special rally shells (which are thin) with scrim tape and glue reinforcement inside. A selection of Modelsport stickers in tactical places give additional exterior strength and crack resistance, as you will do quite a it of branch related damage in the forest 😉 Treat your basher  bodyshell as a service item 😂

 

 

Finally I have hot glue gunned a lot of the chassis crevices - under the steering, under the propshaft, by the rear battery post and between the motor and the prop rib which has affected motor temperatures  (lots of debris gets wedged here!) I probably ought to buy a Kamtec chassis shell cover! If you do nothing, this glue mod is a definite requirement along with ballraces and a  servo turnbuckle to square everything up. A bit of servo foam under the servo saver also stops debris accumulation . Some door draft excluder foam stops the battery rattling about.

 

I also recently added Yeah racing front metal drive cups and CVD front shafts which are very worthwhile for extra steering lock. (But buy BOTH ends as the CVD won't fit the standard Tamiya cups!). So far I've broke nothing (famous last words!) and the car has been used in all weathers and conditions. I have replaced the bearings at each end of the prop due to ingress and one of the wheel bearings, so I’d order some extras (Rc bearings is spot on). I let it dry off, bang the worst out, Spray GT85 oil all over, then wipe it off and pull the worst out! Every few outings its wheels off and good scrub - so far so good!

 

The issues i always had with this type of tamiya chassis is suspension.   car is to light shocks are to stiff  also a lot of binding even without the shocks fitted.

[Hugoagogo]

Spookily enough I've got the same body for my TT02 for abuse purposes, appears to be made from melted down kids buckets and spades.