My Arrma Kraton V3 Thread

[Paul Busby]

I think I might have saved it.

 

I changed the 20AWG cable on the cap pack with 16AWG.

 

Where the battery cables were stripped back, I used the 16 AWG to basically hold the wire onto the rest of them and fill the hole.

 

It's not pretty, by any stretch of anyone's imagination that ever held a solding iron.... but I plugged it in and it works. Only time will tell if the stripped off cable has lost too much and will end up setting on fire, but I think it will be fine.

 

The button obviously doesn't have a lot of current going though it so Im not worried about that, but again it's super ugly with loads of heatshrink to fix it.

[m4inbrain]

Oof. 

 

I'm pretty certain there's no way around the Max6 in that case. If the power button snapped right where it comes out of the ESC, there might be enough cable left to solder it back to, if you can get the cover/fanshroud off. Looking at pictures, that's definitely an option:

 

 

 

 

 

Here's a video of a different ESC but still might be applicable to some extend, showing how hobbywing ESC "covers" are seated etc. 

 

 

 

It's with time code, i don't understand a word - it's just to illustrate how the housing mounts. It can't be that different to yours. 

 

Again, i'd argue that in the housing there's enough cable length left to solder to - the problem might be the ripped silicon, you might need an entirely new 10awg cable with intact silicon sleeving because heatshrink doesn't flex, so if you heat shrink multiple inches of damaged wire, you'll basically have an antenna sticking out of there.

 

Couldn't find anything in regards to "opening" the housing, but i mean.. If it's broken, elbow grease. It can't get "more broken". 

 

 

edit: woops, didn't see the last posting, my bad. Well. Good luck

 

Edited January 26, 2020 by m4inbrain

[Paul Busby]

I think the difference is that they seem to fill up the entire lower case with conformal coating, including the PCB, so literally nothing budges on the Max.
The Xerun isn't waterproof, so perhaps they don't do that?

The top shroud comes off to access the heatsink and fan but then the next layer is essentially moulded into the bottom case. You can take the screws off, but that's it.

I think the bodge that I've done is as good as its going to get. 10AWG cable is probably overkill for a Max8 anyway.

[Paul Busby]

This is what I ended up with.

 

 

As you might be able to see, I have to enlarge the holes for the cables quite a bit.

[m4inbrain]

If it works, it works. Nobody sees it while running anyway, as long as it doesn't burn the truck down, it's fine.

 

And if it does, you got an excuse for a new one - and since you have that Max 6, might as well go with the Kraton 8s just to make that not a waste

 

[Paul Busby]

If it works, it works. Nobody sees it while running anyway, as long as it doesn't burn the truck down, it's fine. [emoji3]
 
And if it does, you got an excuse for a new one - and since you have that Max 6, might as well go with the Kraton 8s just to make that not a waste [emoji14]
 

I feel like you really get me sometimes [emoji16]

[m4inbrain]

2 minutes ago, Paul Busby said:

I feel like you really get me sometimes

 

👍👍