rustybasher Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 Hey guys recently got back into rc after a long break? previously had a revo and merv plus countless b3's etc i have just bought a mint condition ftx carnage for £55 sadly its not the brushless version (not yet anyway)? i was wondering if anyone has some info on its weak parts and any flaws. i have already found one with the stock esc. so thats being replaced asap! hope you guys can help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 (edited) Get the Hobbywing 1060. So much better than the naff stock esc as you have discovered. It can handle brushless fairly well but I would personally not go over 3300kv. On my HW max10 3300kv it reaches 37mph on 18t (and Bugsta wheels) and anything faster will just wreck it. Others prefer the 4000kv but with the 3300kv you get longer run times, it runs cooler and is more willing to go to 3s if you dare. Ring and pinion gears along with the arm pin holders are a weak point. Some upgrade the pin holders to aluminium which just displaces the energy to the arms and breaks them instead. Arms cost 2-3 times more than the pin holders so keep the pin holders as standard and replace as and when. Get some spares from Hobbyking (the Quanum Vandal) and I think theyre less than £1 each. Unfortunately you cant do anything about the main ring and pinion gears. Theyre made of cheap metal and the chassis flex breaks them when jumping or crashing at speed. Expensive from Modelsport, half price on Hobbyking. I have bought an aluminium chassis to stop the flex but it does seem to put even more strain on the pin holders (due to the reduced flex). Edited December 24, 2018 by Nickarla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PH001 Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 Buy the much tougher acetal spur and steel pinion, then the cover to stop stones getting in. The carbon top plate stops a lot of the flex. Personally I would change the suspension holders to aluminium as they break by just looking at them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Ive never really had an issue with the standard spur gear once Ive covered it adequately. Ive shown details of this in the FTX Carnage thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybasher Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 wow cheers guys ? i intend making a cover for the chassis underside. does rpm make parts for this truck? i had some arms on my revo and they were bombproof lol. nickarla funny you said about the 1060 esc thats the one i have on its way but as far as parts i think i shall be getting a few hinge pin holders and spur gears and pinions. i like the idea of the alu chassis too. i intend running it at a quarry i have behind my house so i need to beef this baby up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BashingBrian Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 Just get one of @daveyboi73 steel spurs along with a steel pinion and its then bomb proof..!!! Take a look in the Vantage/Carnage post on here..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 The spur gear is bomb proof but the main ring/crown gears are the weak ones. It’s crying out for someone to make a hardened version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 The frustrating thing is that this is close to being a perfect car with a few basic upgrades. All we need is a hardened gear set and a few rpm plastic parts (or equivalent) and it would a phenomenal car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveyboi73 Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 Invest in the alloy chassis plate and the carbon topdeck, as this eliminates chassis flex both sideways and front to rear. One of the main reasons the diffs break on these cars is that upon heavy landings and impacts, the front and rear housing flex backward and push the crown wheels teeth against the unmachined edge on the pinion at each end of the main shaft, and as this does not move, the teeth are sheared of the crown wheel. Its such a simple but MAJOR design flaw. SInce fitting the alloy plate/carbon top deck, 3 shims crownside and two on the opposite and packing the cases with cv grease, i have not broken a diff at all, even runing the 32DP sor kit and 3S lipo over the last 9 months or so I am looking into getting a fully hardened set sorted at this time also. Unfortunatly it takles a while as have to finsd a decent suplier who will cut them for a decent price. I agree with nickarla fully, it is frustrating. Maybe if enought of us ask RPM they may look at doing some arms etc. They will if they get enough enquireis about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickarla Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 We certainly look forward to hearing about the hardened gears. I believe that the RPM question has been asked and the answer was ‘no’, due to concerns that it would devalue the brand by supplying for FTX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybasher Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 This is brilliant. thanks for the info guys. keep us informed on the hardened gears daveyboi73 it sounds a worthwhile project?. its a shame about rpm not making parts for the ftx cars. is there by chance any other companies truck that has close enough parts that retro fit and happen to have rpm parts made? would be really handy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybasher Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 opened my diffs today due to them sounding a little rough i feared i would come across the worst but to my surprise i found the grease had pretty much turned to a clay consistency. i am guessing this is due to the previous owner neglecting a little servicing. also while doing this service i noticed how much you have to take apart to get to the diffs which is such a pain in the ass? i also gave the shocks a clean and refill which were also only half filled at most! it drives and sounds so much better now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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