Isle of Wight Basher Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 2 hours ago, westerlycarrot9 said: No not the screw. I'm talking about the whole thing at the points where it connects with the rest of the car. However as i just mentioned above after an hour or so of running it's still in place so i guess it's normal that way. As per the second part of my reply then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 10 minutes ago, Isle of Wight Basher said: As per the second part of my reply then. What do you mean by "shim it"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 I'll take some pics later, but it's basically putting shims or washers on the shaft between the prop-shaft and the circlip/housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 (edited) Below is an example of shimming, I've shimmed the output shaft and diff inside the axle to get the best meshing possible, then shimmed as below to remove most of the free play, you want to leave a little. Whilst you can see the washers used there is a shim between the bronze coloured washer and the axle output bearing, don't use a washer directly against the bearing as it will contact the outer race. Edited August 10, 2017 by Isle of Wight Basher 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 10, 2017 Share Posted August 10, 2017 1 hour ago, Isle of Wight Basher said: Below is an example of shimming, I've shimmed the output shaft and diff inside the axle to get the best meshing possible, then shimmed as below to remove most of the free play, you want to leave a little. Whilst you can see the washers used there is a shim between the bronze coloured washer and the axle output bearing, don't use a washer directly against the bearing as it will contact the outer race. Oh i see. I may try this method then. Thank you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted August 11, 2017 Share Posted August 11, 2017 (edited) Did the FTX Carnage front sway bar mod and it makes a massive improvement on the handling of the truck ! As you can see it's a direct bolt on fit all the nessacery holes and mounts are already in place. Unfortunately you have to buy them as a pair of sway bars so your left with a spare one and a complete spare fitting kit, But fortunately for anyone interested I've now got everything you need to do it left over that il sell cheap with free postage. The part number for the item you need is FTX6376 (I did read online that the FTX Vantage sway bar also fits, But I can confirm after ordering it that it does NOT fit it's way to wide hence why it has a different part number so only order the carnage one with the part no as above) Edited August 11, 2017 by 6ft4Crawler 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ADH66 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Peeps, my mates have bought a pair of FTX Outbacks each, so while I wait to see how the Mauler is received, I'm gonna take the Outlaw to the party. Gate-crash as you'd expect an outlaw to do. My question to you, is whether there is anything else I should change on the ESC via the program card? I'm upping the drag brake for those steep descents, and taming the initial acceleration settings. I think I read somewhere that the motor timing option can be changed for better low speed performance? It's stock at moment. I'm running a std brushless car, and I may take the Bugsta wheels off (wider and lower-profile than stock) and return to the stock wheels for their narrower track (better grip?) and higher profile (better cushioning?). Ta guys, and I'll let you know how it gets on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 On 8/10/2017 at 20:00, Isle of Wight Basher said: Below is an example of shimming, I've shimmed the output shaft and diff inside the axle to get the best meshing possible, then shimmed as below to remove most of the free play, you want to leave a little. Whilst you can see the washers used there is a shim between the bronze coloured washer and the axle output bearing, don't use a washer directly against the bearing as it will contact the outer race. So today after some heavy jumping the screw that can be seen on the inside of the shaft was loosen up a lot and i had to re screw it. In my opinion i guess it was a little loosen up from the day i put the steel shaft on (about 4 days ago :P) and i just didn't notice. Now everything's fine but i'll have to glue it to be on the safe side Has this ever happened to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Guys what body clip size does the Outlaw use? Or what body clip size do 1:10 cars need? I lost one of them once again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 I use these. Cheap and do the job. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100x-Body-Clip-Pin-for-HSP-Redcat-HPI-RC-1-10-Model-Car-Spare-Part-02053-Hotsale-/152138234597?epid=1694474828&hash=item236c253ae5:g:9QIAAOSwt5hYbL-X John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 6 minutes ago, johninderby said: I use these. Cheap and do the job. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100x-Body-Clip-Pin-for-HSP-Redcat-HPI-RC-1-10-Model-Car-Spare-Part-02053-Hotsale-/152138234597?epid=1694474828&hash=item236c253ae5:g:9QIAAOSwt5hYbL-X John Thanks for the link! I suppose these are medium size right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 Medium-ish I suppose. They do seem to fit most 1/10. Cheap enough that you don't care if you loose some. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 10 minutes ago, johninderby said: Medium-ish I suppose. They do seem to fit most 1/10. Cheap enough that you don't care if you loose some. John Actually i just checked the manual and it seems the ones that came with the car are indeed Medium size so thank you again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 9 hours ago, westerlycarrot9 said: So today after some heavy jumping the screw that can be seen on the inside of the shaft was loosen up a lot and i had to re screw it. In my opinion i guess it was a little loosen up from the day i put the steel shaft on (about 4 days ago :P) and i just didn't notice. Now everything's fine but i'll have to glue it to be on the safe side Has this ever happened to you? Nope, when I first installed the prop-shaft I used medium threadlock, and added fresh threadlock whenever I've removed it and have never had an issue 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny85 Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Hi outlaw owners, I have been reading through the forum for a while now and just signed up. Had my outlaw for a while now and have upgraded nearly everything. Been great fun and a good introduction into the rc world. Had the usual teething problems with broken chassis', drive shafts, spur gears etc. However I have come across a problem I can't seem to fix, having brought and seemingly broke three front diffs (teeth grinding off gears, bearing falling apart, etc), I am in need of some help from the experts. The problem is; I keep getting a nasty grinding/slipping noise from the front diff under acceleration! I have turned my motor right down and the problem persists...I have brought yet another diff but am reluctant to install it! Please help... Many thanks Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Hi Vinny Have you tried shimming the diff for minimum clearance ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny85 Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Sorry to be such a noob but what do you mean by shimming? Spacer-ring the input gear? I have only installed as per manual. Thought it was because I used rubber sealed bearings and not the ones supplied at first. Many thanks VIinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamradioguy Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Cant help on the bearing problem but there is loads of info on diff shiming on the net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny85 Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Awesome bud. Would you suggest shimming the horizontal or drive line? Also what would you use thanks Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 (edited) Some of you may remember I've been making up some aluminium body panels for my FTX Outlaw, Here they are. For anyone who's not yet joined, Here's the link to the FTX OUTLAW OWNERS "FB PAGE" https://www.facebook.com/groups/186675465206030/?fref=nf (Picture heavy) Edited August 17, 2017 by 6ft4Crawler 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6ft4Crawler Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 On 15 August 2017 at 00:09, Vinny85 said: Awesome bud. Would you suggest shimming the horizontal or drive line? Also what would you use thanks Vinny As per the video shim the diff first this will 9 times out of 10 stop and pinion play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 21 hours ago, 6ft4Crawler said: Some of you may remember I've been making up some aluminium body panels for my FTX Outlaw, Here they are. For anyone who's not yet joined, Here's the link to the FTX OUTLAW OWNERS "FB PAGE" https://www.facebook.com/groups/186675465206030/?fref=nf (Picture heavy) The body is absolutely fantastic! Although it could be better with some color on it It looks a lot like the Bomber body. I was thinking about making something similar to the Bomber's body by cutting the stock white/blue one but i never go to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 Question: Has anyone ever tried to lock the rear differential of the Outlaw? It would make it kinda better at climbing. If so how can it be done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isle of Wight Basher Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 3 minutes ago, westerlycarrot9 said: Question: Has anyone ever tried to lock the rear differential of the Outlaw? It would make it kinda better at climbing. If so how can it be done? Yes, I've set up my Outlaw as a crawler for this weekend, spiderman and I are going out to play !! Anyhow I've removed the sway bar, fitted the motor from my Maverick Scout and locked the rear diff using an Axial Heavy Duty Locker http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax30500 It fits well in the Outlaw diff case, there is some slight play where the half-shafts fit into the diff locker, but it is minimal. If need be I'll use epoxy glue or suchlike to remove the play. After the weekend I'll be setting up the Outlaw as a dedicated beach car, so will go 2wd with the rear diff locked, and use sand paddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerlycarrot9 Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 15 minutes ago, Isle of Wight Basher said: Yes, I've set up my Outlaw as a crawler for this weekend, spiderman and I are going out to play !! Anyhow I've removed the sway bar, fitted the motor from my Maverick Scout and locked the rear diff using an Axial Heavy Duty Locker http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax30500 It fits well in the Outlaw diff case, there is some slight play where the half-shafts fit into the diff locker, but it is minimal. If need be I'll use epoxy glue or suchlike to remove the play. After the weekend I'll be setting up the Outlaw as a dedicated beach car, so will go 2wd with the rear diff locked, and use sand paddles. I didn't even know such a piece existed. And it seems that it's not that expensive! Could you share a photo of your rear diff? It would be even better if we could lock and unlock the diff using the remote Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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