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KING MOTOR X2 review


just rolling

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2 hours ago, just rolling said:

i tried swopping over channels from steering to throttle etc and at the time no difference as first i thought it was the receiver, had it all apart and it seems ok today, i had the receiver in a balloon so no water etc in there, gona put it all together and try the steering before taking it out, was great all the other times and it went mad when it was stationary which i didnt understand as no load / movement at the time

 

I'm confused!! Is servo fully functional in either RX channel???

 

As at first you said it was???

5 hours ago, just rolling said:

It lives again lol, replaced fuel lines and the engine lives and ran great just ticking over so all good there. Rebuilt rear diff using a alloy case and losi internals and its all good, some how the servo is working ok when its not connected to the steering but i guess it will still go mad when i reconnect it. At moment then possibly just a servo to buy for the moment and swop over the other diffs with alloy cases and losi internals at some point. I do have plenty of car and upgrades at the moment for my money so am glad i went king motor x2 over the losi but i did not expect this much work / bad luck

 

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I had it out the other day and whilst trying to start it the servo fully locked to the right by itself, tried turning it on and off, disconnected battery receiver etc and it kept just locking on to the right. Had truck stripped to bits and rebuilt half of it today, got the engine fired up and servo mounted but no servo horn on and the servo works OK, I will reconnect the servo to the steering tomorrow and try again, gona order a servo aswell. When servo was connected up fully it was the same fully locking to the right in channel 1 or 2 of the receiver 

Edited by just rolling
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4 hours ago, just rolling said:

I had it out the other day and whilst trying to start it the servo fully locked to the right by itself, tried turning it on and off, disconnected battery receiver etc and it kept just locking on to the right. Had truck stripped to bits and rebuilt half of it today, got the engine fired up and servo mounted but no servo horn on and the servo works OK, I will reconnect the servo to the steering tomorrow and try again, gona order a servo aswell. When servo was connected up fully it was the same fully locking to the right in channel 1 or 2 of the receiver 

 

Jeees mate you could be a lawyer!

 

Please answer yes or no;

 

1.Servo not working at all, in either RX channel, with or without servo horn?

 

2. Throttle and brake servo working in either RX channel?

 

(If no to both Q. 1 + 2 change RX, if no to 1 only, change servo.)

 

Or...

 

3. Its it working without servo horn in either RX channel

 

(If yes to Q 3., then you've either used a horn screw that is too long, or tightened the horn screw too tight, in which case, refit horn with shorter screw nipped up tight, NOT overly tight, if this fails, remove servo, disassemble, inspect for damage/shift/play on servo gears etc)

 

If its for the knackers yard, just chuck it in your tool box for spares, and go a yourself a used working servo off the bay, or alternatively seek one out on here  

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/servos/rc-car-categories/9910/991020

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Lol honestly the car does wot it wants, few days ago the steering servo would just fully lock to the right when connected up no matter what channel it was in and would not respond to anything from transmitter. Stripped car yesterday and whilst car is half built with no servo horn attached to servo, the servo works as it should and responds to transmitter instructions. Its bloody possessed.....

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So its yes to question 3.. Servo is functional, but when you refit servo horn of locks to the right, its either one of the following

 

• damaged/split wire conduit on servo lead

• servo horn to tight, wrong size

 

It could also well be ;

• failed servo potentiometer/pot

 

Similar symptoms to what you've described, symptoms udualluy don't appear until servo under load ( I.e connected to the steering linkages and servo horn)

 

Chuck it in the spares box, and go get another mate

 

One last thing, did the servo get wet whilst in use? Theirs a chance it could be damp inside the servo, loosen the bottoms place slightly and lob it in a dry bag of rice for a day, then re build and re fit, worth a shot!!

 

Edited by Fly In My Soup
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Well lol, built it back up, took it out and switch didn't work, opened it up and it was rotten and fell apart. Managed to get it powered up using a body clip onto what was left of the switch, it then ran like a dream. I repeat my car has done another tank, servo was spot on and everything...it's crazy, cheers for trying to help but this bugger is like herbie... It does what it wants 

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2 hours ago, Fly In My Soup said:

So its yes to question 3.. Servo is functional, but when you refit servo horn of locks to the right, its either one of the following

 

• damaged/split wire conduit on servo lead

• servo horn to tight, wrong size

 

It could also well be ;

• failed servo potentiometer/pot

 

Similar symptoms to what you've described, symptoms udualluy don't appear until servo under load ( I.e connected to the steering linkages and servo horn)

 

Chuck it in the spares box, and go get another mate

 

One last thing, did the servo get wet whilst in use? Theirs a chance it could be damp inside the servo, loosen the bottoms place slightly and lob it in a dry bag of rice for a day, then re build and re fit, worth a shot!!

 

Servo poss got damp, the switch was rotten, all kept in the house but I did also think the km blue servo was waterproof

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The switch fell apart when I took it out lol, guess the rubber cover doesn't work too good,  am just so glad to get another tank through it, handles really well and power is quite good too

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15 hours ago, just rolling said:

The switch fell apart when I took it out lol, guess the rubber cover doesn't work too good,  am just so glad to get another tank through it, handles really well and power is quite good too

 

You bought this new from RCModelzzzzz, is that correct?  May I suggest that you ask them to stand behind what they've woke you?  New switch as an absolute minimum? 

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I spent quite a bit there, after a few spends then realised there was a code for a discount, I don't like greedy people and I thought it would of been nice to have had this added or mentioned during one of my spends. Even a discount on some of my repairs would of been nice, the bloke in there was great help and I got a cup and stickers but tried phoning a few times and gave up eventually, maybe I have just been the most unluckiest bloke alive with this x2? Removed switch now and rewired remote kill switch removing standard push button switch. Hopefully I get some good runs in now, thank God it was quite a bit cheaper than the losi

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All diffs now with losi internals, NRP o rings and TGN gaskets, no switch fitted and i had great fun running though another tank today and it still lives. This is great, just need a few more tanks with it working then i shall get a losi tuned pipe, i want the pipe to attach to engine so its easier to take off. Still shocked at how well it goes with standard engine and exhaust for the size of it, bit more torque will be great. Tried running spikes today on grass and it was good but i prefer the standard tires as they slide about more and it looks like a real truck 

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8 hours ago, just rolling said:

All diffs now with losi internals, NRP o rings and TGN gaskets, no switch fitted and i had great fun running though another tank today and it still lives. This is great, just need a few more tanks with it working then i shall get a losi tuned pipe, i want the pipe to attach to engine so its easier to take off. Still shocked at how well it goes with standard engine and exhaust for the size of it, bit more torque will be great. Tried running spikes today on grass and it was good but i prefer the standard tires as they slide about more and it looks like a real truck 

 

Your gonna have to brace the exhaust somewhere I think, all that weight of the pipe shouldn't be hanging from just the two bolts in the head.

 

I believe you may encounter some issues with the exhaust gasket being unseated/misshapen, or unseating the head.

 

I can just imagine if your jump her in any way, the weight of the exhaust x gravity x vertical momentum = headaches ( especially if its a hard landing) I'm assuming this is why they bolt the exhaust to a fixed point on the chassis ( a point which will allways stay the same distance from the engine )

 

How much does your pipe weigh mate?

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Flys in my soup - They don't hang just off the exhaust bolts chap, that would be completely unworkable design, they bolt to the engine casing as well.  The point being made is the exhaust he wants is not one fastened to the chassis as well! :D 

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I take the fuel tank,engine and exhaust off after running to help clean the car, the losi tuned pipe attachs to the engine instead of the chassis i believe? quicker for myself. The x2 seems all good and ready to go again, standard truck tires back on and hoping for a quick blast before the rain is due here today, just going to fill 1 tank, it seems to last for ages

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5 hours ago, Carpmart said:

Flys in my soup - They don't hang just off the exhaust bolts chap, that would be completely unworkable design, they bolt to the engine casing as well.  The point being made is the exhaust he wants is not one fastened to the chassis as well! :D 

 

2 hours ago, just rolling said:

I take the fuel tank,engine and exhaust off after running to help clean the car, the losi tuned pipe attachs to the engine instead of the chassis i believe? quicker for myself. The x2 seems all good and ready to go again, standard truck tires back on and hoping for a quick blast before the rain is due here today, just going to fill 1 tank, it seems to last for ages

 

 

Ahh I see, that makes much more sense!!

just thought I'd add my 2c, as I imagined it just hanging by the header bolts she I pictured it in my head:lol:

 

interesting design, is that unique to the type of pipe? Or the engine? 

 

Personally I would love a pipe that bolted to the crankcase, would solve some issues I've had with pipe bracing.

 

Thanks for correcting my horribly innacurate info guys!!!!:D

 

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The only thing I have changed on mine is the diff internals which I did before the stock

ones gave up anyway and I have done this jump a hundred times at least and never broke anything

i think they are tougher than people give them credit for

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