Daveyb84 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 yeah that one looks mint, definitely inspired me think the diff will take a 13.5 brushless? ive got one spare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 Thats a good looking buggy Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 5, 2016 Author Share Posted June 5, 2016 Any recommendations for NiHM battery packs? Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk My over lander 3300 has dropped a cell :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 (edited) Thanks! Yes, the diff won't have any issues with 13.5t. It has metal innards and a thick plastic casing that isn't at all prone to flexing. You might want to upgrade the dogbones though. The stock items have hollow shafts and plastic ends, making them light but not terribly strong. I prefer the all-metal ones from the WT-01 trucks, part number 19805551. And of course a steel pinion is a good idea in place of the stock soft alloy one, but you probably knew that. Edited June 5, 2016 by XV Pilot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 11 minutes ago, TMaxxDave said: Any recommendations for NiHM battery packs? Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk My over lander 3300 has dropped a cell :-( I have had good service from my Carson packs. Some are over 5 years old now and still firing on all cells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 XVP, or any other Tamiya owner with a TL-01 chassis, need a small favour please, could someone please measure the width of the front and rear suspension arms, where they mount onto the diff casing? Both inner and outer measurements. I'm working on a project :-) Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Sure, will do so when I get home, unless someone beats me to it. Most interested to hear more about your project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 Sure, will do so when I get home, unless someone beats me to it. Most interested to hear more about your project! Just toying with some ideas. And the arms are only the start..... i suspect you know what this project is... ;-) Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 TB-01B? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 TL01B arms would be the easiest option Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 You ought to be in luck then. The TL-01 (and M-03, M-04, M-05, M-06, MF-01X, WT-01, WR-01, WR-02 and no doubt many others) use suspension arms with 24mm inner and 45mm outer measurements. I don't have a TB-01 to hand to measure, but based on the fact that the one-piece TL-01LA suspension arms also fit the TB-01, I see no problems fitting it with TL-01B arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 I thought they should be somewhat similar. Ill measure my TB-01 when im home. Arms partly sorted. The hunt for a shock tower will prove to be a little difficult. Dogbones from the TL-01b will fit nicely and coupled with longer outer drive cups from the WR01 (and may other tamiyas) it will give a fairly wide stance. Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 TL-01B dogbones will indeed fit, but with their lightweight hollow shafts and plastic end pieces, they aren't particularly strong. Might I suggest the all-metal ones from the WT-01 instead? They are the same length and will fit right in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 TL-01B dogbones will indeed fit, but with their lightweight hollow shafts and plastic end pieces, they aren't particularly strong. Might I suggest the all-metal ones from the WT-01 instead? They are the same length and will fit right in. Yes you may. Lol. Thank you Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 18, 2016 Author Share Posted June 18, 2016 Struggling to find a set of TL-01B arms. Next on the hit list would be a set of DF-02 arms. Anyone got a DF-02? Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted June 18, 2016 Share Posted June 18, 2016 Lord Dave, Naturally I have both. 01B arms and driveshafts (mix of new and used) and a very tidy, hardly run DF02 which is likely as not going up for sale as I don't use it. It has some hop ups fitted and on 3s was really rather silly! However.....as you know my current situation of boxed crap, I can only 100% confirm the whereabouts of the DF02.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 18, 2016 Author Share Posted June 18, 2016 The DF02 would be required to take measurements from to see if the would be anywhere near to the size I need. Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk Also PM sent Noj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 How hot should a torque tuned motor be running in a rally car? im sure mine is running too hot, i can't remember what pinion or spur im running though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted June 19, 2016 Share Posted June 19, 2016 The Torque Tuned usually runs quite cool in my experience. It almost always passes the 5-second finger test even after a long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 19, 2016 Author Share Posted June 19, 2016 So 60degrees c would be classed as running hot? 5 seconds is passable, barely. 10seconds is very toasty indeed Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 Please ignore :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Been a while since this thread saw life, fortunately, I have questions to ask of The Guru.... Ordered a re-re Brat, because why not. Esc-less, but combos and servos I have in abundance, RS bearings on the way. Nothing much going in terms of upgrades it seems, so, what, if anything, can be done to improve it? Also, what pitch and max size pinny can I fit? Cheers 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 A nice choice Mr Noj, I'm sorry I can't however suggest anything suitable for your vehicle. I'm guessing it has oil shocks? Steel pinion is always a good choice, as we all know Tamiya alloy pinions are a bit wussy. Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Rugby. Or Cricket. Not Football. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Sounds like a fun purchase! The Brat is based on the ORV chassis, which takes 0.8 Module pinions. It is supplied with three alternative spur gears in the kit - 49, 50 and 52t with which you use 19, 18 and 16t pinions respectively. The stock pinions are alloy, so steel upgrades are a good idea as TMaxxDave suggests. The diff can push itself apart if you try to put a lot of power through it, so the so-called OldFrogShot diff mod is a good idea in such cases. This involves putting a screw through the middle of the diff to hold it together - the link below shows how: http://tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=24674&sid=3142 Centralising the steering servo is another popular mod, which requires making up some new tierods. AmPro have some slightly expensive but highly effective 3D printed metal braces on Shapeways which significantly strengthen the rear swing arm shock mounts. Link below: http://www.shapeways.com/product/U4ZQNUV9H/tamiya-orv-swing-arm-shock-brace?li=shareProduct And of course you might still find the CRP skidplate and bumper coming up on eBay now and then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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