total novice, need help, tamiya experts get in here please :D

[Berzerk]

theres 3 letters on the motor, i remember now blue goes to A, yellow goes to B, and orange goes to the other letter i cant see because of the motor position, it looks like they are in the wrong holes

Edited May 11, 2016 by Berzerk

[Berzerk]

2 minutes ago, XV Pilot said:

As for the FF questions, you can extend the link between the servo saver and the steering rack so that the servo saver can remain upright at neatral. Here is a pic of mine:

 

 

Feeling for binding is best achieved before hooking up the servo, so you can move the linkages by hand.

 

i will try that as soon as the new steering parts arrive thanks alot!

[TMaxxDave]

Ignore this please

[TMaxxDave]

No use at all this post. Answered above.

[Berzerk]

that seems to have fixed it, took the motor out and put the wires in the correct place and then put it back in and rest the esc again, wow i really panicked there i hope nothing has been damaged from that. It sounds great, it bit more of a metal sound when everything turns compared to the FF01

 

 

guys i have noticed the front wheels are slightly to the left, not sure if you can tell from the picture, the plastic thing below in the picture with the arrow next to it, when i put that on the servo it wouldnt fit on straight up, it would be either a bit to the left or to the right, not sure why, would adjusting the tie rod fix that and straighten the wheels?

 

[XV Pilot]

1 hour ago, Berzerk said:

 

Edited May 11, 2016 by XV Pilot

[XV Pilot]

Grr! Silly forum intermittently not letting me edit posts...

 

Anyway, glad you got the motor sorted. I must say I am most surprised that misconnecting the wires made the motor run in reverse. Reversing the rotation of a sensored motor through swapping wires is generally regarded as very hard to do as you normally need to reconfigure the sensor wires too.

 

Anyway, as for the steering question, it is not unusual to have to do a little final adjustment to get everything perfectly straight with a new car. I generally start by setting the trim to neutral on the transmitter, then putting the servo saver on the servo as close as possible to where I want it. If it puts the steering way off neutral, I get it to the right position by adjusting the linkages, then do final adjustments via the trims on the transmitter.

Edited May 11, 2016 by XV Pilot

[Berzerk]

thanks XVPilot ill set the trim to nuetral and try adjusting the servo linkages first and see if that makes a difference, i'll take your word for it about the wires i have no idea...i dont know how i managed to do that since i made a note of which colour goes to which connector >.<...so now the tx is back to being "not reversed" for the want of a better word lol

Edited May 11, 2016 by Berzerk

[XV Pilot]

Well I must say your setup never ceases to surprise me!

 

The TBLE-02 instructions say to reverse the throttle channel before calibrating the endpoints, so that is what I have always done. I didn't know that you could get it to work properly with the throttle channel not reversed.

 

You learn something new every day as they say!

[Berzerk]

1 minute ago, XV Pilot said:

Well I must say your setup never ceases to surprise me!

 

The TBLE-02 instructions say to reverse the throttle channel before calibrating the endpoints, so that is what I have always done. I didn't know that you could get it to work properly with the throttle channel not reversed.

 

You learn something new every day as they say!

just checked the instructions, you're right it does say that, what the hell hahaha, i didnt do that with the FF01 either and that was with a TBLE 02 also, albeit a different brand tx and brushed motor.

[Berzerk]

welp they are finally finished guys! , i wanna thank everyone who has contributed to helping me in this thread, especially the likes of XV Pilot, TmaxxDave, TC, Chewie and Atom. i started out knowing literally nothing about electric hobby rc cars and with your help i was able to assemble these two!

 

I took the TT01 out yesterday and im thrilled with it!, it was really stable and was off the line pretty quick with the Speedpassion motor!, the reverse speed seems to be a bit slow compared to the FF01 brushed motor though, dunno if its supposed to be like that or theres a setting for it somewhere.

 

The FF-01 and TT-01

 

 

 

I'm using the stock steering assembly on the FF until the gpm arrives.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Matrixline Ford focus body on the FF-01

 

v

 

 

 

i really wanna try a 10.5t motor in the TT01, i think thats the lowest that the TBLE-02s esc will support but tamiya suggests to use the tamiya TFU-01 Cooling fan unit, would this fan be able to plug into the receiver?, right now i'm using a 21t pinion with the stock 61t spur, would it be ok to try for example a 28t pinion with a smaller spur gear such as 55 tooth?, I'd like to gain some more top speed

 

 

 

 

[XV Pilot]

Glad to be of help - your cars seem to have turned out very well indeed!

 

Brushless motors are typically a lot torquier than their brushed equivalents and can therefore run taller gearing. I run a 13.5t on 25/55 in my TT with no thermal issues, so you'll have no problem running that ratio on your 17.5t motor.

 

The TFU fan can plug into a spare port on your receiver if you have one, or if not you can power it via a Y-lead.

 

So, now these two fine machines are done, what is the next addition to your fleet likely to be?

[Berzerk]

6 minutes ago, XV Pilot said:

Glad to be of help - your cars seem to have turned out very well indeed!

 

Brushless motors are typically a lot torquier than their brushed equivalents and can therefore run taller gearing. I run a 13.5t on 25/55 in my TT with no thermal issues, so you'll have no problem running that ratio on your 17.5t motor.

 

The TFU fan can plug into a spare port on your receiver if you have one, or if not you can power it via a Y-lead.

 

So, now these two fine machines are done, what is the next addition to your fleet likely to be?

 

thanks XV!, is your TT pretty speedy with that motor gear ratio? do u know what kind of top speed you hit?, my future tamiya build is going to be a TT02 and an offroad buggy chassis i think, not sure which one yet, i know this is like blasphemy because i like tamiya so much but i really like the look of the HPI WR8 flux Fiesta too, ive been lookin at videos of it and boy does it fly with a 3s setup!!, i'd also like to have a nitro or petrol car too, i dont know if you have any experience with those cars?

[TMaxxDave]

Anytime mate :-). Thats what we are here for. 10.5t would be rather quick indeed. You dont wanna flip and damage that body. Lol. Yes you will need the cooling fan to run 10.5t

Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo

[Berzerk]

3 hours ago, TMaxxDave said:

Anytime mate :-). Thats what we are here for. 10.5t would be rather quick indeed. You dont wanna flip and damage that body. Lol. Yes you will need the cooling fan to run 10.5t

Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo

 

haha yea i certainly dont wanna flip the car!, i'm planning on getting a new body for the tt01 just incase, i've been trying to calculate the theoretical speed, according to this calculator http://dhrc.rchomepage.com/RolloutCalc.htm it could reach 35+!! with a 55t spur, 25t pinion and a 4000kv motor which i think the speed passion 10.5t has but not im not sure. 

 

according to that calculator the 17.5t passion motor at stock spur (61t) with a 19t pinion will do around 20mph? does that seem about right to you guys?

 

for now im just gonna try the 25/55 pinion/spur with the 17.5 motor and see if that makes a difference, dont get me wrong its fast as it is, i just want to see what a little tweaking can do hehe.

 

 

[TMaxxDave]

20mph would seem about right with a long run up. I have experience with nitro but know nothing about petrol RC. Real petrol cars yes, no issues at all. What body are you planning for the TT?

Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo

[Berzerk]

4 hours ago, TMaxxDave said:

20mph would seem about right with a long run up. I have experience with nitro but know nothing about petrol RC. Real petrol cars yes, no issues at all. What body are you planning for the TT?

Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo

Thanks Dave!, would you say nitro has a steeper learning curve than electric rc?, like is there lots of things you need to know about tuning and stuff to get it running good?, for the TT02 i've been looking at the Porsche Carrera RSR or the Lancia Delta, i probably wouldn't go with the box art though like i did with the previous two, I really like the look of the Toyota Supra too but it appears to only be available on the TT-02D chassis, im not sure how a drift chassis would perform as a normal a Touring car, i've been eyeing the Pandora Subaru 22b STI body shell too but i think it would need offset wheels for it to look right on the tt02.

 

Edited May 16, 2016 by Berzerk

[TMaxxDave]

Nitro is a huge learning curve if you've never had nitro before. there is an awful lot of tweaking involved to get it running right, and it almost needs tuning slightly every time you take it out and run it. Drift chassis would do fine as a normal touring car, its just the tyres that are different in the kit and maybe some alloy parts, but overall they are the same.

[Berzerk]

17 minutes ago, TMaxxDave said:

Nitro is a huge learning curve if you've never had nitro before. there is an awful lot of tweaking involved to get it running right, and it almost needs tuning slightly every time you take it out and run it. Drift chassis would do fine as a normal touring car, its just the tyres that are different in the kit and maybe some alloy parts, but overall they are the same.

 

ouch...well i like tinkering with stuff so i might give nitro or petrol a try in the near future, i'm gonna do alot more  research first though, for now i think i'll stick with good ol' electric, i think its pretty impressive though that now you see electric car performance keeping up if not surpassing their nitro/petrol counterparts!. If those are the only differences with the TT02D chassis i might just go with that, thanks buddy!

[TMaxxDave]

I converted my nitro to brushless. I miss nitro but not enough to buy another one just yet.

Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo

[XV Pilot]

Early RC drift cars were basically touring cars with hard slippery tyres fitted, and while there are a good few drift-specific chassis out there these days, the entry-level ones such as the TT-02D remain true to the original formula. One of Tamiya's best value touring cars out there is the TT-02D Type S. Although sold as a drifter, just pop a set of grippy touring tyres on it and all the suspension and drivetrain hop-ups that make it a good entry to drifting serve equally well to make it an effective entry to racing.

 

As for nitro and petrol, can't help you there I'm afraid. All I know about them is that the fumes give me a headache.

 

 

[chewbacca]

Both looking really good there fella. All you need to do now is run the TT01 as rear drive only so it's as authentic as the FF 

 

 

As for nitro or petrol, they have their fans but can't be run in as many places as leccy due to them being so darn NOISY!

[chewbacca]

They really do look fabulous. If that's what you can do as a beginner, I think you have the potential to produce some outstanding builds.

[Berzerk]

7 hours ago, XV Pilot said:

Early RC drift cars were basically touring cars with hard slippery tyres fitted, and while there are a good few drift-specific chassis out there these days, the entry-level ones such as the TT-02D remain true to the original formula. One of Tamiya's best value touring cars out there is the TT-02D Type S. Although sold as a drifter, just pop a set of grippy touring tyres on it and all the suspension and drivetrain hop-ups that make it a good entry to drifting serve equally well to make it an effective entry to racing.

 

As for nitro and petrol, can't help you there I'm afraid. All I know about them is that the fumes give me a headache.

 

 

ouch headaches are never good, i suppose i'd look a bit funny wearing a respirator while rcing lol, 

 

Oh nice, i didnt know there was a type S version of the drift chassis, those are some nice hop ups it comes with i'll definetly keep this one in mind cheers Pilot!,

 

9 hours ago, chewbacca said:

Both looking really good there fella. All you need to do now is run the TT01 as rear drive only so it's as authentic as the FF 

 

 

As for nitro or petrol, they have their fans but can't be run in as many places as leccy due to them being so darn NOISY!

 

thanks for the kind words chewie!, haha yea thats a good point about making the TT rwd but im planning on getting an aftermarket subaru shell for it

5 hours ago, chewbacca said:

They really do look fabulous. If that's what you can do as a beginner, I think you have the potential to produce some outstanding builds.

oh stop it you make me blush hahaha, but seriously i'm really not happy with the way the bmw turned out, i made a mess of the left front wing stickers and i could've done a much better job cutting out the body, i had a hard time seeing the line when using curved lexan scissors, i think on my next shell i will mark it out with a marker first before cutting!.

 

one thing i'd like to ask is i tried gluing some tyres using this tamiya glue 

 

 

 

i let it dry for a couple of hours but it was easy to peel the tyre away from the wheel like u see here, one thing i didnt do was wash the tyres/wheels before hand, did i use the wrong type of glue?

[ChrisT]

Yep, wrong glue. That's for plastics such as their static models. What you need is CA glue.

 

Vitalbond Tyre Bonder Glue

 

Racing RC Car Ultra-CA High Quality Tyre Super Glue 20g gel glue no dripping!

 

From experience, and only having used the Vitabond on Modelsport, I would be inclined to buy the gel type glue. The vitabond sticks well, but it's very runny and can get you in a world of