everclear1984 Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Can anyone shed some light on why I have so much play in the wheels? All four corners are the same. I thought it was down to knackered bearings so I fitted fresh ones but it's no better. None of the steering parts are moving so it's nothing to do with the ball joints. It's driving me crazy! https://youtu.be/Mxvkys6wxK4 *sorry for the portrait video. Still can't get them to embed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Worn hexes? Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Loose wheel nuts? Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) Shims wil sort it....all our 1/8th trucks have play. ...sum more then others. .....but on my s-mt4g3 i shimmed almost all of it out the axals.... left a tiny bit in Edited February 28, 2016 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Definitely not loose wheel nuts, didn't know hex's could wear like that. I'll try some new ones next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Or worn wheel hexs if its not the axles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 4 minutes ago, evssv said: Shims wil sort it....all our 1/8th trucks have play. ...sum more then others. .....but on my s-mt4g3 i shimmed almost all of it out the axals.... left a tiny bit in Sorry if this is a dumb question but where would a shim be needed, gotta be worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) Behind the bearings between the bearing face and axle..... .....so axle. .shim/s....bearing. ..hub...bearing.. Edited February 28, 2016 by evssv 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 8 minutes ago, evssv said: Behind the bearings between the bearing face and axle..... .....so axle. .shim/s....bearing. ..hub...bearing.. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadleg Roberts Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) I went into my local hobby shop and asked if he had any shims......... He looked at me as if I was asking fro Plutonium! Where did you get those shims from, EVSSV, if I may ask? I still have play on the MT4 rear... (Sorry for the thread hijack) Edited February 28, 2016 by Deadleg Roberts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCpete Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) Ahh the Trophy buggy slop, you could replace every part and there would still be excessive slop. The Trophy is just really bad for it, shims are the answer. Did you get the car brand new? If so there should be a little pack of them included in the box....i used mine for the diffs but they should work fine for the hubs as they have the same size bearings. I never bothered shimming out the slop...the car goes great and nothing has broke, so all good. Modelsport sell a little pack of shims that should do the trick! Edited February 28, 2016 by RCpete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 1 hour ago, RCpete said: Acoulde Trophy buggy slop could replace every part and there would still be excessive slop. The Trophy is just really bad for it, shims are the answer. Did you get the car brand new? If so there should be a little pack of them included in the box....i used mine for the diffs but they should work fine for the hubs as they have the same size bearings. I never bothered shimming out the slop...the car goes great and nothing has broke, so all good. Modelsport sell a little pack of shims that should do the trick! Can you do me a favour and link me to the Modelsport shims? I bought it used and could use some for the diffs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCpete Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-shim-13x16x0.2mm-10pcs-/rc-car-products/32237 Try those bud. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) Never mind, found them edit: you beat me to it Edited February 28, 2016 by everclear1984 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) 22 minutes ago, everclear1984 said: Never mind, found them edit: you beat me to it 2 hours ago, Deadleg Roberts said: I went into my local hobby shop and asked if he had any shims......... He looked at me as if I was asking fro Plutonium! Where did you get those shims from, EVSSV, if I may ask? I still have play on the MT4 rear... (Sorry for the thread hijack) 22 minutes ago, everclear1984 said: Never mind, found them edit: you beat me to it I use the multi pak they do....fastrax....but take ur pik.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=strax+shims&_sop=10&_osacat=2562&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=fastrax+shims&_sacat=2562 or http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=shims&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=10&_osacat=2562&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xshim.TRS0&_nkw=shim&_sacat=2562 Edited February 28, 2016 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 The HPI ones were the cheapest I could find that weren't coming from Apex (I try to avoid using them where possible). Ordered a pack of ten, cheers everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 there not cheap for what they r imo...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deafty Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 the dreaded trophy slop. I remember chasing that slop for hours. FrontHubs have a lot too. I used pfte tape with succes. as for shims, rc mart + asiatees is the place 3racing are usually the cheapest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 (edited) I bought the over-priced 7075 hubs because I was stripping the originals every bash, you'd think they'd be a better fit but I still had to shim them. All good now though. Asiatees were indeed cheap but postage killed any saving. Edited February 28, 2016 by everclear1984 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazp1976 Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 (edited) My last load of shims were: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3Racing-Stainless-Steel-Shim-Spacer-0-1-0-2-0-3mm-Thickness-3-Type-Set-10pcs-ea-/351196114732?var=&hash=item51c4eb6f2c:m:mMaC5ELZVpqSSlWoxJS_3oA I didn't bother with mine. I have noticed that other cars ie losi have a large inner bearing around the large part of the axle (joint bit) and the smaller 8mm bearing on the outer and they end up with very little play. The HPI has both bearings the same 8mm size which in effect leaves the large inner part of the axle (joint bit) hanging thus causing lateral force on the bearings creating wobble. Or something like that. All brand new makes no difference, too many shims can cause binding and excessive bearing heat, hexes proper wear where they contact the outer bearing too, I sometimes shim here to compensate the wear. I also noticed a change by HPI on the D815 to large inner and smaller 8mm outer bearings at the back - could this be why? Edited February 29, 2016 by dazp1976 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCMonkee Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 You think the Trophy is sloppy. Try a Losi! They actually work better with a bit of slop believe it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 It's nowhere near as bad as my Blitz was, I was just wondering what could be causing it. Does the wobble cause excessive wear on any other parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carpmart Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 I'm yet to find an RC which doesn't have annoying amounts of 'slop' except the Genius on road 1/5th scale which is just phenomenal engineering! I think we have to live with it unfortunately! Slop that is! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 My Losi 8 2.0 (electric conversion) certainly has a bit of slop in pretty much everything but as said above and also by a lot of "experts" in USA you are not supposed to use shims to reduce slop. Why slop in a Losi or any other RC vehicle is good no one has explained yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carpmart Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 1 hour ago, sunny said: My Losi 8 2.0 (electric conversion) certainly has a bit of slop in pretty much everything but as said above and also by a lot of "experts" in USA you are not supposed to use shims to reduce slop. Why slop in a Losi or any other RC vehicle is good no one has explained yet Simple and cynical answer is that it stops the manufacturers having to make things 'properly' with lower tolerances. This would undoubtedly significantly increase the retail prices we pay, which would not be good news of course! Mass produced tat, is always mass produced plastic tat. We then run this bundle of big toleranced tat, bolted (loosely as its tat remember) together as our new pride and joy RC and the movement created by it being tat to start with is exasperated through the tat parts moving and shaking and ovaling etc, making the tat we bought, seem really bad tat after a few runs. I hope that has helped to explain it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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