mpr555666 Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Just started in the world of RC Cars. I have bought a couple of the Maverick Ion Cars for me and my children. I have just stacked one into a rock, well more like a pile of cement on the floor which did not move. It still moves, but there is a clicking coming from inside. I can't tell where it is coming from, whether it is the drives shaft or the differential. I am going to take it apart tomorrow and see what is what. When ordering the parts, what would a good general lubricant for things like the diffs? Also with the shocks, is says they are oil ones and rebuildable, if I do rebuild them, what Oil would be good for that. I Would like to take it apart and rebuild it all, so I can learn about the car. and then progress on to more complicated cars Many thanks in advance Max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Does the clicking come from gearbox and does get it get faster when you accelerate? more than likely you have broken a few teeth on the spur gear if it is plastic, check the pinion (the gear that goes on the metal shaft sticking out from the motor and the gear it spins against (spur). As for rebuilding those shocks not sure but if vehicle is pretty light maybe some 30 weight oil or 25. The diffs as far as I know on those are not sealed so any good grease like the tamiya ones available on ebay should be fine the more grease you pack in the more resistance and the more locked the diffs will feel. If you have any other questions as you strip it just post on here with pics and I am sure most people will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpr555666 Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Sunny thanks for your reply. It's hard to tell where the sounds comes from as when you pick it up and accelerate there is no noise, but when you put it down the noise comes back. But I am pretty sure it is coming from the back. How do you mean, the more grease in the diffs, the more locked they will feel? Is that better or worse? I stripped it this morning, and what you have said is correct I think. I was able to get the diffs out and gave them a once over and they looked like they were in fine working order. I checked the drive shaft gears at each end as well, and they seemed fine. After looking at the gear on the motor and the main gear it connects too, well they weren't connecting correctly. So i moved the motor over and tightened the screws that hold the motor in place. This seemed to have worked for a moment and then the noise started again. Do you think I should order a new set of these. Or do I need to sit the motor even tighter and see if that works better? Maverick Spur Gear 45 Tooth 1pc (all Ion) MV28013 Maverick Plastic Pinion Gear 13 Tooth 2pcs (all Ion) MV28014 Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_bench10 Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 As your new to the hobby I suggest going threw a few of the pinned threads on here which will explain a bit to you. However as you have just moved the motor you now need to set the mesh or you'll end up with a spur with no teeth. And a flat piece of plastic to go in the bin I'd watch a few videos on YouTube of how to set a mesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpr555666 Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 13 minutes ago, jordan_bench10 said: As your new to the hobby I suggest going threw a few of the pinned threads on here which will explain a bit to you. However as you have just moved the motor you now need to set the mesh or you'll end up with a spur with no teeth. And a flat piece of plastic to go in the bin I'd watch a few videos on YouTube of how to set a mesh. Pinned threads on the micro topic? Or go higher back to the General Electric ones? I will check about setting the mesh. Not sure what that is. but I am sure google will help me Unless you have any links that would put me in the right direction quicker. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpr555666 Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 UPDATE I found that the motor was moving ever so slightly. So I stripped it down again and this time took the motor out. You won't believe this but one of the two screws that holds the motor in place fell out. It had NO thread on it whatsoever, it was like a pin! I have contacted the shop to tell them, and they are sending me out some new screws. Hopefully get them soon and then get it all back and working nicely. Need to learn more about how to setup mesh when aligning motor pinion gear to the spur. Any suggestions on videos or links would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosq Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Hi mpr, I suggest you through both of those threads: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/165121-my-maverick-ion-mt-project-brushless/ http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157554 and maybe this one at the end : http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/172634-maverick-ion-wheels/ I know its lot of reading, but its worth to read from first to last. Lots of knowledge on maverick ion (iron track / himoto mastadon etc.. these are the same trucks with diffrent names only/ Its better also to ask in those threads as more people who can help you subscribed to them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 To prevent this happening get yourself some medium strength threadlock and apply sparingly to screws holding motor this will prevent vibrations from working them loose. To set the mesh between pinion and spur gear properly use a bit of paper or type in google mesh set paper method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jehosophat Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) I had something similar and it was the end can of the motor falling off (stock HPI Spino brushless - basically another brand for the ION XB). Which was very odd. I have not been using this car much since adding the LSD, and Leopard ESC and motor referred to in Bosq's links as I have got much more into my 1/16th cars, but had a brushed ION XB for a couple of years and aside from the front suspension tower, and the weak ESC (hopefully improved in the refreshed one) it was a really strong little car, able to take some serious crashes whereas I need to be more careful with the 1/16th cars. I.e. not let my daughter drive the brushless ones... I have found the stock shocks, metal and plastic, leak oil a little, and have used a cycling-branded teflon grease on the gears with good results... The stock plastic 13T pinion seems pretty good compared to some of the metal ones out there. Personally I find the XB handles quite poorly with the lighter LiPo batteries and struggles to contain the power, so usually run it with NIMH which work well with the Leopard brushless motor/ESC. Unlike Bosq, who is running the truck version, on the buggy I have found the limited traction means the stock driveshafts and other drivetrain gear works fine, I have only added metal ones because they look nice... To be honest I'm not sure how much the very expensive rear ball diff has helped, the XB seems to have loads of steering slack and likes to track slightly to one side under power, and the other side on a trailing throttle, which makes it much harder than my 1/16th cars to keep in a straight line at high speed. The motors get very hot on these cars, brushed and brushless, making some holes in the body and/or chassis, and buying the metal motor mount, is a good plan. They are good little cars, I was into RC cars in my teens (25 years ago!) and the XB got me back into them. Edited January 1, 2016 by jehosophat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugsaint Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 First ever post and apologies its one for help. Not sure if this needs to be started as a new thread either since most Maverick ION series are very similar (if not the same). My son has a Maverick ION XT and recently (bashing at the local skatepark) its not steering well - the servo saver is taking up most of the force from the servo and not turning the linkages. Scratched my head for a few a days and rebuilt it a few times, until I noticed in a photo of the servo saver parts there are two e-clips. Mine only has one, so it must have popped out during one of his bumps. Likely this is the root of the issue. I've ordered a spare servo saver and my next problem is how to install the e-clip whilst trying to compress that tiny spring? I can't any appropriate spring compression tools to help nor willing to splash the cash on this one task. Anyone have any idea how to compress the spring, install the e-clip and hold the servo saver at the same time?! Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugsaint Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) Fixed, using pliers to hold down the spring and plastic pieces! Then a third hand to install the e-cli. 3rd hand provided by my wife Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited January 26, 2016 by bugsaint more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugsaint Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Has anyone fitted adjustable turnbuckles in to their ION? I'm thinking 23mm turnbuckles but confused by the sizing of rod ends and ball cups. If I need to replace the ball studs and rod ends to get adjustable turnbuckles I'd be fine with it but just need to know the sizing. Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosq Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Many people have it done. Here is link to my mod - somewhere in this post link to parts. There are also other similar parts fitting for sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugsaint Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Front shocks broke yesterday on my son's car, its irreparable. So if my reading of threads is correct, Losi Mini-T and RC18T shocks are good alternatives to the standard ones. As I need to replace rather repair, might as well upgrade to something more durable. What are others experiences of these shocks? He runs his car mainly on a BMX track so the shocks get a pounding. Durability to priority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosq Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) Some advise those tetons shocks: http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157554&p=2292386 Can u describe whats wrong with you shock? (I use stock and I had to glue all threads and have no problems since - and I give them really bad high speed offroad drives). If this bmx track is hard - maybe consider T-bone bumpers to protect them - it would safe you some problems. Edited February 19, 2016 by bosq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugsaint Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Can u describe whats wrong with you shock? (I use stock and I had to glue all threads and have no problems since - and I give them really bad high speed offroad drives). If this bmx track is hard - maybe consider T-bone bumpers to protect them - it would safe you some problems. The shock body (part that holds the fluid snapped in half and the piston got bent. I'd have to buy a new body,rod and fluid. So thought I'd might as well by new shocks rather than try to repair. They're on order now so I'll post a photo when they arrive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosq Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 (edited) If the hit was so strong I think you shall definitely get T-bone bumpers. I've broken shock that much only once in fact when I hit a steel bench leg in the park. T-bone would take that hit instead of shock then most probably. Usually shocks were just self-disasembling on the go and I had to search with more or less success missing debris Edited February 20, 2016 by bosq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugsaint Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 First day out in ages and he breaks the rear left hub. /sigh Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.