Zombi's Axial SCX-10

[Zombi]

I was a bit concerned that the wheels would be too bright a grey for the look I want, but I can quit fretting as they're a nice, dark grey - phew! 

[The Dark Knight]

That's good to know, I was thinking about getting them for my Hilux but I wasn't sure about the grey so I just went for the black ones.

 

On another note, I've been looking at radios for a wired winch controller. I prefer stick radios and there doesn't seen to be many with a 3 position switch without spending a fortune. So it looks like I might have to consider a wheel radio for my crawler.

[Zombi]

Aren't the wheel radios generally considered better for land vehicles anyway? 

[Glenyboy]

Be careful, you may get a letter through demanding the import fees. One of the companies delivered the parcel, then you get the bill through the post later.

[Zombi]

It's never happened to me before using any of the vendors I go with, so I'm confident that on this occasion I need not fret.

[Zombi]

Off we go then! When looking into these wheels, there were a lot of reports of folks losing the tiny M2 scale beadlock bolts whilst out on the trail - they have a tendency to back out because they don't come particularly tightened up. So the first job is to loctite them all in.

 

The bolts are so small that no conventional tools work, but you can buy one from SSD that's fit for purpose. But personally I think that's a bit cheeky - they should really provide something.

 

However, I picked up a tip on how to make your own.  All you need is an M3 button head screw and two nuts. The hex head in the screw is 2mm so they fit right onto the beadlock screws. You put the two nuts on the screw and tighten them down hard, then use a 5.5mm spanner like the ones you get with your kits and hey presto, custom driver made for these wheels

 

 

 

 

 

[J.A.Son]

That's a great tip and those wheels look very nice indeed!

[Zombi]

Well I've fitted one completely and wow, what great wheels, I really like them!  If SSD started making these assassins in different colours, VP would have some serious competition on their hands.

 

 

[Zombi]

And here we have the finished wheels. The bead clamp is nice and strong and they went together with no struggle whatsoever. And the colour & style fit the build well I think, very pleased indeed

 

 

 

[shaunm]

Hmm very interesting you know I had issues with ssd wheels, it looks as though your inner bead ring is narrower than the ones I had which would explain the issues I was having!

[The Dark Knight]

That's looking very nice indeed, the wheels really suit it  The only thing poking out at me is that alloy red servo horn.

 

I was tempted to Loctite the bolts on mine but took one look at all the bolts and decided just to leave it, "touch wood" none have backed out.

 

Regarding wheel radios, I don't really think there's one better than the other for surface rc's, it's more personal preference but wheel radios do seem more popular. I've always preferred stick radios, especially for my racers but may get a wheel radio for my crawler if that's the only option I have without spending a fortune on a high end stick radio. My Sanwa Gemini X is a vast improvement over my old Core stick radio but that's as much as I really want to spend on a radio.

[Zombi]

Yeah I'll leave it on as a bit of bling or consider getting a black one. It doesn't annoy me, yet, so I'll keep it as-is for now.

 

So did you tighten up any of the screws at all?  I found that 90% of the little ones weren't tightened down in the slightest. And on two wheels, the larger screws securing the hubs were also very loose. If it'd not checked them over and secured them I'd have all sorts of pain.

 

They should just supply them as VP do, in pieces requiring your assembly. At least then you'd know it's been done right.

[Zombi]

Hmm very interesting you know I had issues with ssd wheels, it looks as though your inner bead ring is narrower than the ones I had which would explain the issues I was having!

 

Remember that these are different wheels and also only 1.9 size, not 2.2. Maybe that's why there's a difference?  Have you searched Google images to see if you can find other pics with the rings featured? I know that there are a fair few posts about the 10-hole wheels on RCC.

[The Dark Knight]

I didn't tighten down any of them, probably jinxed it now so I better check them lol

 

I was thinking of getting the 2.2" when I get my Wraith but it sounds like there might be problems with them.

[Zombi]

I've read a lot of posts about the SSD 10-hole, and i've not heard of a single issue about beadlocks. Everyone's said they've just fitted on perfectly - so my advice would be to still strongly consider getting some. Fantastic wheels are such a good price. Like I say, it's a shame they don't offer more colours.

[shaunm]

Remember that these are different wheels and also only 1.9 size, not 2.2. Maybe that's why there's a difference? Have you searched Google images to see if you can find other pics with the rings featured? I know that there are a fair few posts about the 10-hole wheels on RCC.

Forgot they were 2.2 as a pose to 1.9 bud, but would still expect the ring gaps to be consistent surely because the tyre rubber would be consistent? Mine laying flat on the bench as per your photo, the ring gap to the outer wheel was virtually non existent.

Moot point now anyway got so fed up trying to sort them and damaging them in the process I binned them!

[Zombi]

Aww what, you binned them!!??  Wasn't that 60 quid of wheels!?? 

 

You should have contacted SSD, another thing I read from the yanks is that their customer service is really good too.

[shaunm]

Aww what, you binned them!!?? Wasn't that 60 quid of wheels!??

You should have contacted SSD, another thing I read from the yanks is that their customer service is really good too.

Yes it was

[The Dark Knight]

I've been doing a bit of research and there doesn't really seem to be any complaints about SSD wheels.

 

I'll be going for the 2.2" 10 hole or assassin's

[Zombi]

I'm about to start doing my lighting and thought I'd show you guys this. It's a HeyOK! remote light switch.

 

It works off a receiver and uses its voltage to power the LEDs. One end plugs into a spare channel on your RX and the other straight to your lighting. You can then operate your lights via the TX, naturally.

 

Looking at what else HeyOK! offer, I should have got a dual controller so that I can control two circuits and have the main headlights work independently from the fogs and rear lights. I might bag one on my next US order.

 

Here's their full range of treats for reference.

 

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vendors-electronics/308487-heyoks-rc-electronics-items-all-one-place.html

 

Edited July 17, 2015 by Zombi

[J.A.Son]

Where did you buy that? I like the 'no-brainer bec' he does- that might just be what I need!

Edited July 17, 2015 by J.A.Son

[Zombi]

RPP Hobby.  You can also contact him directly on the RCC forum and he'll sort you out.

[Zombi]

Progress update on the lighting. It's going pretty slow as I'm having to solder up quite a few LEDs with appropriate resistors.

 

Front:

2x Fog lights, 5mm (bumper, dome)

2x Headlights, 5mm (flat top)

2x Orange, 3mm (flat top)

 

Rear

2x Red fog lights, 5mm (bumper, flat top)

4x Red, 5mm (flat top)

2x Orange, 5mm (flat top)

 

I've gone for 'Warm White' as it looks more realistic than the blue colour the 'Bright White' LEDs give off. Learnt that lesson on my Yeti before I got the Q-Series on there.  

 

I'm also going to experiment with the flat top style LEDs for the rear, as they give a wider viewing angle (120 degrees) compared to the domed versions (about 20 degrees).  If they look the part, I might see how they fare on the front too, but I'm thinking the front needs to have that focussed beam so they can project the light better.

 

 

 

 

 

As usual, I'm going to make the lights modular using JST connectors and the hub shown below. I've mounted it using some very cool stick pads that work similar to velcro but don't wear out, which means I can remove it should i need to and then simply click it back on afterwards.  I'm thinking one port will be for the headlights, one for the front fogs, one for the rear fogs and one for the rear lights. I plan on eventually getting the roof light bucket set, so I'll need to take that into consideration. I'll probably just make a splitter for that.

 

 

Edited July 28, 2015 by Zombi

[Glenyboy]

Haven't seen that particular splitter box before, may have to pick one up. Where'd you get the Velcro from.

[Zombi]

The velcro stuff was from work, it was left over from a load of laptop stands we had.  I have no idea what it's called or what to search for on google either. But let me know what you find if you do start searching for it.

 

Ok a bit of a big update today then.  I've paused on doing the lights as I couldn't wait to get the winch installed, so I spent the last 3 evenings doing so. It took so long as I had to rearrange my electronics somewhat due to running out of space in my project box.

 

I was all for getting a bigger box and mounting it sideways on just behind the spur, and had spoken to Banners about mounting options. On Saturday night just before I set off to Maplin I decided to check their opening times, as mid-week they close at 8pm and assumed the same. Good job I checked as Saturday closing is 6pm!

 

Because of my massive impatience, I decided I'd see if I could figure it out without a new project box, and I'm glad I did. In short, to make room for the light switch and winch controller in the box, I took out the FXR and mounted it on the outside of the box. I think this is most certainly for the best for controlling heat generation and the fact I can now see the lights.

 

Further to that, the case the winch controller comes is takes up way too much space. For some reason it houses both a JST and servo connector rather than just having them as free wires.  So I took the case off (breaking it in the process, doh ), waterproofed it, and ballooned it up so that the circuit board doesn't make physical contact with anything.

 

Also, I changed the little white connector (which was SO flimsy it broke almost straight away) that sat on the wires between the winch itself and the controller to a JST.

 

Everything now fits into the box nicely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mounting the winch onto the Dingo stock bumper was a huge pain in the arse. I had to drill out some new screw holes and some access holes underneath the bumper. I manage to get two screws in, but the ones closer to the front of the bumper are just too hard to access. What makes it tricky is because the two posts that you use to mount the bumper to the chassis are bang in the way.  It seems to be holding for now, but I'm not sure how well it'll last, so i'll need to revise what I'm going to do with the bumper.

 

I need to do some testing with it now, I'll try and get an update on how it goes in the week.

 

Here's a few shameless pics of the finished product - hopefully you'll agree that it really does look the part, especially in the front of the Mud Pig