foxy82 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Any Tamworth nitro nerds out there.need some help with engine please When it comes to nitro engines I have a fair idea at what I'm talkin about but just bought a Pico 28 that has not even had gallon threw it and it was near enough seized Slowly getting there now but would like some expert advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kadvr6 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 You been to sri models??? Very very helpful bloke there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy82 Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Yeah.he's a good mate of mine but he knows more about brushless these days.could do with someone whose been racing nitros for years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy82 Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 The engine is rattling on idle.Any ideas.I think bearing in crankcase?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 The engine is rattling on idle.Any ideas.I think bearing in crankcase?? It is like a high pitched tinging type noise? I have heard this before on my nitros. Not 100% certain but I think it is the clutch shoes just slightly contacting on the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxy82 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Cheers mate but don't think it's that.wish it was that simple though.lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 (edited) if possible and your not bothered about mech work, you need to remove the rear cover plate and expose the engines insides. remove the plug and allow the engine to rotate over slowy with the fingers turning the front clutch ring. when the con-rod is Bottom dead center give it a wiggle , it sits with a bearing inside it and slips over a post in the crank shaft. if thats ok its possible a top end has failed a bearing in the top of the conrod conencteing the piston to it. futher still one can remove conrod and piston with liner and then strip out the crank shaft from the engine casing. there is one bearing in the very front of the engine and one inside the engine its more a floating crankshaft. the one at the front can become knackered over time and also the inner bearing can become worn and or gunked up. they can be replaced to if needed and found to be at fault. HYDROLOCKING : this is when to much fuel is ingested by the engine its sucked into a transfer port carved out of the crank shaft, here its compressed and sent into the engine, its drawn from the engine into the barrel and ignited at the top. sometimes the fuel will not ignite and pool up inside the barrel chamber. to much and the engine becomes hydrolocked, ( its just like its a siezed engine) so removal of the glowplug is required, the engine tipped upside down and the pullstarter turned over a good 10 times. to spit all the build up out we will even cap of or empty the fuel tank. some new engines to have a tingy sound to them, so you follow these checks and still find everything in order but that tingy sound No fret its just the new engine and will settle down over time and use Edited April 16, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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