Cessna Identification & Repairs

[Dark Cognitive]

Can anyone help me identify the model of this Cessna?


I need a replacement tailplane as it's snapped. The only identifiying stuff i can see on the plane is that it has a Seagull Models decal on it, and it says N739RF on the wing. Having searched the net all i can find is shops selling newer different versions.

I'm really just trying to find out the exact model so i can search for a replacement tailplane as it's snapped off. I bought this years ago, got the engine running etc but never flown it and it got broken in transit.. Now i want to restore it and get it in the air but with limited knowledge on these things i dont know where to start about where to get a replacement tail plane or how to build one myself.

Some pics for your perusal:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'd try fixing the tailplane part myself, not sure if wood glue would hold it? , but i'm not the best at that type of handywork, not sure what type of wood to use if i was to cut a new part etc etc, would prefer a spare part if anyone knows where i could get one?


Any insight would be appreciated!
 

[Tamiyacowboy]

Looks more to be a Seagull boomerang , reason i say this is the front end engine bay side pannels have that distinct

bommerang curving up front. normally this would be cowled over for a cessna .

 

Model version looks to be a cessna 152 , an old old run of the seagull models selection.

companys like seagull discontinue models and move them onto more refined versions 

 

seagull boomerang into the boomerang v2, some kits just fade away into the darkness.

 

looks like a two part tail, ie the leader then the main tail plane itself. 

the tailplane runner is a slotted type, ie the tailplane itself slots into the runner and is glued into place.

its how all balsa models are built in this fashion. 

 

 

guessing at a 4mm-5mm  balsa sheet (check the width of the balsa tailplane)

pop off the tail plane section push bar control rod, lay your old tailplane onto and trace the outer shape.

when cutting make sure to CUT INSIDE THE LINE DRAWN. 

 

Fitting it back on. you may need to dig out the remains of the old tail section so you can fashion a biscuit slot

into the tail section of the fuselarge and then  shape the tailplane to fit this slot ( so you leave some overhang on the bottom of the tailplane section you cut out.

 

 

hope this helps, most unless they are avid builders would be binning the trainer and upgrading to something more modern

in build and design.

[Dark Cognitive]

Thanks tamiyacowboy. You're right about the plane, I contacted seagull models and they confirmed (unsurprisingly) that it's no longer in production.

I took off the heat shrink covering of the tailplane, you're right it's basically just balsa struts. I identified the 2 points of weakness and managed to fix it all up with a few lollipop sticks and wood glue believe it or not.

Heatshrink wrap arrived today, so will cover it as well as I can.

Also had the engine apart (not entirely) but gave it a good clean out, and it runs, only issue is it runs for about 60 secs with the glow igniter removed then dies. Tried playing with the idle, hs needle etc but it still just dies. I'm not a complete noob at basic tuning of a nitro engine, had to do it many times with the cars, but this one is proving a bit tricky.

I'm using 5% nitro atm, and that's been in the loft for about 10 years, don't think that's helping matters! Can't remember what I should use for these engines but I should be safe with some 15% nitro right?.

Ps. Yes, I'm already in the process of updating my collection, going to start with a nice new electric glider. I just thought after pulling all this stuff out the loft I'd try and get some of it working, if not just for a bit of practise for me and the kids etc. (well, the kids can play with the cars, no nitro planes for them yet until I get them on a simulator)

Edited April 17, 2015 by Dark Cognitive

[Tamiyacowboy]

yeah 15% will throw a prop at a fair rate with good power. 

 

the old fuel has lost its methanol /ethanol ( thats the nitro part of the fuel) and has just oils additives now

so its come to the end of its life. 

 

you will find fresh fuel should solve the idle ticking over problem, and you may want to tune slightly for the new fuel mix added.

popsicle sticks n wood glue lol yeah been that route to fixing a Extra 330L wing brace and mount rail clamp.

 

take your time with the covering, and you may find it better to re-cover the whole craft, give her a new skin 

made from something more lighter stronger and durable than the old factory stuff once used. (its a very cheap covering film they use normally to keep costing down)

for a re-skin we use a wing iron ( its like a mini clothes iron ) , the film has a sticky adhesive that is activated with heat, at the same time the film shrinks a tad

to form a drum like surface. 

 

you can also run a warm iron over older film to help remove wrinkles and likes, but being older stuff

there is chance it will shrink to much or just peel away as the adhesive as perrished over the years 

Edited April 17, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy