SledgehammerS50 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Hi all, I recently acuired an old thunder tiger ssk with the pro 15 engine. The truck had been sitting about for a couple of years and the previous owner didn't really know how to maintain it. I have tried to get her going but had no success, can anyone recommend a certain method or some kind of standard procedure for prepping the truck and getting her going??? I.e. 1) check pressure 2) check carb etc........ Any assistance would be muchly appreciated. I could also do with some good carb settings as I don't trust the manual as my mta4 s50 manual was a load of rubbish. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanp Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 well you fuel up, prime(blow pipe form exhuast), check plug if not new but if it is new just pop glow stick on then go to start. to aid with starting i would heat the engine with a heat gun/hairdryer/engine heater, to ease engine compresion . to check compresion just turn engine over and listen for the pop after the piston goes down from the top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 (edited) Does it have compression, you can take the head off and give it some pulls you want a good popping sound. How's the carb needles set I think that engine is flush on lsn and 2 turns out from closed on the hsn. I could be mixed up tho. Is it the black top .15 I had one that was nr 20yrs old and performed great so you should be ok. When you prime it how many pulls until fuel is touching the carb? You could take the fuel tank off and check it for leaks. Have you put in a new glow plug or at least fired it in your fingers to look at the coil glow it wants to be bright and not soggy. These checks aren't in order lol. Ide start with the plug, then the tank pressure checking for leaks and or fuel pipe splits. Then the carb settings. I always used to jump straight to tuning and made it worse lol so save that until you've found the factory settings. There's a good thread on here somewhere with most engine settings. Or search out what rcs used that engine std and use that name with factory settings in the Google search. Also search out the nitro tuning flow chart that is a great help ide print it off and keep it in the box. I'll try to find links. Here's a off on the pro series engine but it's hard to read for me may it'll be clearer on pc. It sounds like the 12,15&18 have the same carb. https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=PEHyVNSVIrPY7Ab7i4Fg&url=http://manuals.hobbico.com/ttr/pro-12-15-18-series-manual.pdf&ved=0CCAQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNHYpkrL2K11xOpjRSB8i7VK8eLGOw Edited February 28, 2015 by RCbutcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SledgehammerS50 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Ok that's cool. Thanks for your reply. I'm fairly familiar with nitros but I've never had one quite so rough. I have tried the standard procedure but I'm still having a few difficulties. After having tried what you said how would you suggest I go further? Thanks again Jordan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SledgehammerS50 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Rc butcher, It has a bit of compression however I found it was missing the exhaust gasket, got a new one in the post today so will have that on in the morning. I've been doing some research in the treads on here and found the carb settings. Hsn 2 1/2 out, LSN flush with carb body. I'll be sure to make sure gap is no larger than 1mm. You mentioned taking the head off? Should it make quite a distinct pop then? I thought compression would be lost if the head was off? I'll have to check to see how many pulls it takes for the fuel to get to the carb. How do I go about checking for air leaks in the tank? I have a couple of plugs so plenty to get me going. It's not the black top I don't think. In the event non of this works any ideas what I should try next? I'll give it a thorough go tomorrow and see how I get on. Thanks so much for your help so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 To go further I would clean out the engine full strip down. I did this with a picco that wouldn't start after rebuild it screamed and was awesome. I took the engine completely apart, then I got my dremmel with wire brush tip and rolled it over the crank to take off the gunk and rust. I unscrewed the needles completely out of the carb and put a sewing needle down them incase it was blocked etc. Then when I was happy I flushed everything out with fresh fuel to take away the flakes and grit. Dw40 would be ok but a bath in fuel will be best. I save my nitro for cleaning since it goes off after 2 months anyway. With the picco while cleaning the hsn I found a flake of metal the size of a glitter flake. To this day I don't know if that's all my issue was or if the whole process brought it back lol. So maybe just deep clean your carb first. take the rubber seals off tho they will be ruined by nitro and Dw40 wouldn't be great for them either. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SledgehammerS50 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Another sound piece of advise. I'll get cracking on with it in the morning and I'll keep posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 (edited) You can check fuel tank leaks by blocking one fuel pipe. Smearing soap bubbles around the fuel tank and blowing through the other fuel line. If any of the bubbles grow it's leaking. I just put the tank under water tho and blow but some don't recommend that. But I make sure the tank is bone dry before refueling. Just put tissue in wedged by the lid and leave on a radiator for the night if water gets inside. Which it shouldn't if it's fully sealed lol. You can bodge them with silicon if you wanted to its always good to have some instant gasket in the box. Disclaimer. : ) I'm not a nitro hero tho lol theres plenty better than me on here, but I've had my share of problem engines and won. In the end lol Edited February 28, 2015 by RCbutcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SledgehammerS50 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Well at this point in time you know more than me so thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SledgehammerS50 Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Still no luck. I've cleaned up real good too. I must say though when I take the head off and turn it over I'm not getting a popping noise. Would a leak from the exhaust manifold play a major part in it not staring?I think I'm just gonna take the s50 out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthoop Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Still no luck. I've cleaned up real good too. I must say though when I take the head off and turn it over I'm not getting a popping noise. Would a leak from the exhaust manifold play a major part in it not staring? I think I'm just gonna take the s50 out I think he meant take the exhaust manifold off...not the head....(not that I think the test will tell you anything). You could put your thumb over the top of the cylinder when the head is off and pull the starter...again will not tell you much. The exhaust leaking will not help but should not prevent it starting. Is the glow plug getting wet after you have been attempting to start? Have you tried dropping some fuel directly into the carb/plug hole? Have you tried warming the engine? Have you tried opening the throttle more than 1mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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