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3D Printing Discussion


-BEZ-

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So so tempted to grab one myself. 

 

looking at printing or finding a printer that will run me some helmet prints off ( stormtrooper - halo etc etc, but wearable size )

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to be honest for the price i wasnt expecting much but over 100hrs of printing later its really doing great, the quallity oft the prints is very good to what i have compared to on the net.

 

The only problems ive come across are user errors like not prepping the bed , i use a piece of glass on the heated bet with a thin coat of uhu stick glue...

 

The printing area is very good 210x210x210 so its well placed in view of other printers ...... 

i'll probabelly change out the bearings at some time for better ones but they seem smooth for the moment .....

 

the seller also has been very helpfull with after sales service and didnt just sell me a printer and forget, i asked for some printer files on the printed pieces of the printer he sent me the files and was very helpfull with my questions .

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Any news on your printer 

Vr5fx

 

 

 

Ahhh! It turned up today!

 

However, I doubt I'm going to get any time this week to build it. :(

 

I've had a quick look over the parts. it all looks good apart from one of the 6 metal sleeves (with the bearings) as the bearings have come out and are lose in the bag, minor issue that I'll solve somehow.

 

And.... Where are the instructions? :tease:

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can you guys do me a favour, measure the prusia I3 2015 model and give me its foot print in feet.

 

length - width - high 

 

 

i only have a small area to seat one, and its in the house so i can only print in PLA 

to keep fumes down, but it would be nice to have a larger bed than those

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last print job using up some not so good filament 

 

IMG_20150905_205158_zpsiakvucln.jpg
IMG_20150905_205128_zpsoliqe0ur.jpg

 

 

lol you need to print off a stormtrooper head - and darth vader head , maybe even a bobba fet head for the body.

 

so a black body would give you darth vader or a shadow stormtrooper  :) 

 

 

have you printed mask pieces yet ( try with 3mm thickness and break up the model into printable sections.

use some very fine quick set 2part resin bonder to join parts.

to cover up the rough parts, you can use bondo ( 2 part car filler) or go for a lighter weight milliputty 

sand down so wanted contours and curves, i would color the bondo/miliputty  so you pick up only the low spots and do rub away detailing

 

spray with a gray primer then flashcoat your main colors throw a fine layer on every 15-20mins 

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No problem , in feet and inches 

W= 1foot 7 inches

h= 1 foot 6 inches 

l = 1 foot 4 inches

 

 

Darth vador is done ;)

 

IMG_20150915_1447351_zpsjzqqdusp.jpg

 

Models for stormtrooper and a lot of other masks/helmets exist they are printed in many pieces then stuck bondo'ed and sanded , painted.

Take a look on Thingiverse.com it has a huge database of files to print

Edited by baorevo
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No problem , in feet and inches 

W= 1foot 7 inches

h= 1 foot 6 inches 

l = 1 foot 4 inches

 

 

Darth vador is done ;)

 

IMG_20150915_1447351_zpsjzqqdusp.jpg

 

Models for stormtrooper and a lot of other masks/helmets exist they are printed in many pieces then stuck bondo'ed and sanded , painted.

Take a look on Thingiverse.com it has a huge database of files to print

 

 

is that the full size of the whole machine , wow its smaller than i thought. 

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is that the full size of the whole machine , wow its smaller than i thought. 

 

Yes thats the outside measurements, pretty much standard for prusa i3's.

 

i have mine on a small coffee table in the dining room and i print direct from sd card so no need to be connected by usb to the PC.

Edited by baorevo
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lol stupid me, i sit here hanging over the buy button really wanting to press it.

 

then i notice its shipped direct from china....... well thats me out, i dont wanna have that china hassle

free shipping unless customs grabs it then im looking at a huge import cost.

 

i had the notion the site being french meant they would come from france, not china lol.

 

 

now its another 100hrs of research to find out if the hobbyking tinyboy will be able to print out what i need. 

 

here is what i am looking to print.

 

full size wearable stormtrooper helmet

""                        "" scout trooper

""                        "" daft punk helmets

""                        "" and a Halo 3-5 master chief helmet ( becasue its a well cool game and one of my first fps i had clan wars in)

and a few stormtrooper-darthvader etc etc oversize lego men

for christmas gifts and likes

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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Is it really that easy ?................................................ i speant 2 weeks scouring youtube and the net collecting all the info i could on 3d printing and the problems that occur having never touched a 3d printer. I watched loads of vids and then the printer arrived !!!!!

 

1 day building and then came the test , it didnt print well but all i had to do was ajust the extrusion to extrude slightly more and that was it no other parameters needed changing and my prints are very good quallity.

The files for printing dont need anything doing to them apart from slicing them (creating a model of the path of the printer head) and this is done very simply by putting an stl file into a program, the 2 most poular are slic3r and Cura (i use cura).

 

They arent that loud really no .

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Tam i got stung 50 euros tax and it still works out a very good deal..

I have a glass plate i paid ten roro's and i use a thin coat of uhu glue stick that works a treat.

As for running costs y ou get a kilo roll of pla filement for less thin 20 euros ,i buy esun which has a good reputation and a kilo goes a long way, for an exemple my 250 sized quad frame user 150grs son from a kilo y ou can do quite a bit

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thanks Baorevo :)

 

Can u pls link some of your research?

Also can u approximate running costs over an above the initial purchase?

 

 

Cheers  .

 

 

Enjoy the build vr5fx

 

 

running cost is the power you use, let take note here,  printing is best done slowly and fine with a high resolution for the very best quality outcome.

some jobs can run for 30 mins, other jobs can take like 14hrs, a long job your going to make sure you have way enough cable to melt away.

 

so if a quad frame uses 150 grams for the whole print, body and arms and you have 1kg of cable that means your gonna get roughly 6 and a half quadcopter kits made up.

here is the thing though, thats a solid frame with some holes here and there. now this is called infill normally its 100% for a solid item but your arms can be a latice 

still have strength but use less material in the modeling. a solid ball will take more gunk than a hollow or honeycomb center ball.

this is where you come in, you can tweek these areas so you have control over  how its printed and what type of strength it will have 100% infill is like a solid block

50% infill is more like a honeycomb like structure inside.

 

cable cost, ninjaflex can be as high as 40 quid a roll , or a cheapy pla at 12 a roll, we all know the 12 quid job is going to be poor but it will print.

its how much you invest in the cable as to the products final outcome, but this also comes down to heat temp and the speed your printing at.

at some point you will come across a filiment that you just know will work, it produces the best look what your happy with, and you will then tend to stick with that brand of filiment

 

 

the model is a afinibot prusa i3 . it took me a few views to nail down the right one the a603 is very close but has a rotary dial where these models are given a keypad like + layout

youtube is where i have been watching the build vids but they are in french and thats one thing i never really took notice of in school and wish i did now 

 

 

 

yeah baorevo, i think i am going to hit the buy it button tomorrow and get one shipped ( dont intend to do anymore import shipping after this one ) keep my fingers crossed

i get a box and not a call us letter

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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Tam i got stung 50 euros tax and it still works out a very good deal..

I have a glass plate i paid ten roro's and i use a thin coat of uhu glue stick that works a treat.

As for running costs y ou get a kilo roll of pla filement for less thin 20 euros ,i buy esun which has a good reputation and a kilo goes a long way, for an exemple my 250 sized quad frame user 150grs son from a kilo y ou can do quite a bit

 

 

What's this about a glass plate?

 

[EDIT] These instructions are terrible.....

Edited by Vr5fx
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What's this about a glass plate?

 

[EDIT] These instructions are terrible.....

 

Yeah the instructions take some reading lol but apparently as instructions go for prusa its normal lol.

 

i got a glass plate to get away from the taping the bed heres a link to a glass plate at amazon uk for you http://www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-Glass-Panel-3D-Printer/dp/B00ICKHRBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442402912&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+glass

 

and you will need these to hold it on http://www.amazon.co.uk/Connect-32mm-Foldback-Clip-Pack/dp/B000KJKIH6/ref=pd_sim_229_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QJARSY8MNZB6TF02JVD&dpID=31KYhEnOKyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_

 

then instead of tape you use uhu stick glue ( a thin smear)

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