NITO Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) No worries Chewie, I'm a bit partial to threadjacking Received these this morning from Hong Kong. 5 working days only!! I'm well impressed with delivery and the quality of these bits. Of course I haven't tried or fitted them yet but first impressions out the packet....mmmm nice! For some reason I have a bag of body clips and hex pins, can only assume that is an error or a freebie. The Hex adaptors are to convert the Bruiser 3 stud fitting to a hex fitting. It may be that this pushes the wheels out too far, I've no idea what it will do to offset yet. It's was a bit of a gamble purchase, they might just become christmas tree decorations lol! I'll report back when I try them out. Cheers Nito Edited January 19, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Very nice still waiting on mine from the states,Like you Iam having doubts now,think I will wait on you and in the meantime think mine will end up in the Tamiya spares draw for now any time soon when your paint thread starts? cannot hold my breath much longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) Lol, ibo it'll be a little while before mine is painted. Project Mad Bull shell first! I've just been building up the Bruiser shell slowly. Btw, your dummy allen bolts on the doors, one of them will need modding, ie drill a hole in the side bars backing bracket, as the nut will clash with It inside the door skin. Chewie, I've edited the post above, the pin spikes are actually 120mm diameter, the Bruiser tyres are approx 118mm so not a lot between them. The HPI yokos are 108mm diameter. So here is the stock Bruiser hub that the three bolt stock wheels bolt up to... And with the new hex adapters fitted, so far looking good... Robbed a wheel of my Wife's WR01, seeing as her model was the only clean one out of them lol... The hex adapters fit the wheel hexes perfectly, unfortunately the WR01 wheel isn't the best suited with a very shallow offset... Er, just lol I think... Perhaps it would just be better to save your money, depending of course on what you want out of your Bruiser! Scalers look away. If you want to guarantee it doesn't end up on its roof, you could go for this wide track conversion lol. Of course, there are probably other hexes on the market with a much deeper offset than these rims which may be able to take proper advantage of these adapters. I think if you were to hit anything (catch a wheel or the like) running with these WR01 wheels, you'd probably do some serious damage to the axles!! My Son thoughtfully lending me a hand to take this shot!! And finally just a comparison between WR01 pin spikes and the Bruiser tyres, 120mm vs 118mm respectively. So that was interesting, albeit I feel like I've perhaps wasted Edited January 19, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 ie drill a hole in the side bars backing bracket, as the nut will clash with It inside the door skin. Cheers there NITO for this tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Those adapters are horrendous There must be some wheel that they are intended to be used with? I cant imagine that is how the finished result is supposed to look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the watchman Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Just reading this after a few days if not really looking on here, going back to your shifter servo, there is meant to be a extra ring on there mate to help support it brass one on the inside, bigger black one on the outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 (edited) Hi Watchman, The shift servo only has one ring. The steering servo has two rings plus the larger over ring. Smeghead, yes it does look awful with those wheels on. I tried it later with stadium blitzer and it was much better but still too far out. The WT01 wheels have a massive amount of (positive?) offset so exaggerate the effect. I only bought the hexes so I could try some 1.9" scaler wheels. I know you can get some adjustable offset ones. The Bruiser 4 piece beadlock hop up wheels are growing on me with the HPI Yokohama tyres for scaler looks. ibo, no worries, I thought of you as I put the side bars on mine. I'm trial fitting most of the bits on the body to see whats what and what my plan of action will be. I think I might be going for filling those redundant holes on my doors. I'm guessing those holes are for the hilux hi-lift sidebars maybe. I'm still not sure how I'm going to run lights. Can one get led strings which plug directly into the receiver port? If so I'm thinking front and rear lights off a 2 position switch, brake lights on a y connector from the speed controller port, and indicators off the steering with a flasher unit soldered in. Cheers Nito Edited January 20, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 (edited) Actually, these might do the job nicely;http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__19817__Hobbyking_Scale_Car_LED_Light_system.html Edit...just bought them for Edited January 20, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) Another decent Bruiser build here with some decent touches... http://www.rctech.net/forum/monster-trucks/653871-tamiya-bruiser-2012-build-log.html For some reason you need to hit return in your browser for that thread to show!! And an awesome Bruiser build here: http://www.tamiyarcforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1888-Tamiya-Bruiser-2012-Baja-themed-build And another thread... http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=599#.VL-6V0esWfc Trying to get lots of inspiration now, have a few ideas... Edited January 21, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) This arrived today... I'm not entirely sure what direction I'm taking yet. This is beautifully made, really nice quality, thick plastic, came from rcmodelex.com , they have some nice scaler stuff there. I preferred the look of this hard top over the rc4wd one. It didn't come cheap, I think that's it now on the spending for a while!! This is in its unprepared state, it's not shown in the photos but there are hinge covers, seals, side windows etc. the seals are soft rubber, it's quite an impressive kit. Cheers Nito Edited January 21, 2015 by NITO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Looks odd at the mo,but Iam sure it will look the part when you have painted though,I can see magnets holding it in place as you will need access to on/off switch.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 Yes holding it down is going to be the challenge... Pic below gives an idea of what the windows/trims look like; Accessing the switch is easy, the rear door is hinged and flips upwards. I'm not sure how to fix it down, silicone, velcro (ie line the bed with a soft 'furry' carpet style lining with the hooks on the underside of the canopy) or magnets but I'm limited to mounting positions for magnets unless I get creative with styrene and that's uncharted territory for me. My 1:1 Hilux has a hard top with all tinted glass and carpet bed liner hence the influence. I may still use this for an alternative shell in the future and keep this shell more or less box art. The front of the hardtop is solid also where it joins the rear of the cab, I think I'd be tempted to cut out an aperture in this so the 'driver' could see out of the back like most hardtops or paint it black both sides so it looks tinted. Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the watchman Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Hi nito, i mounted one of these bed toppers onto my tf2 a while back, i just used some plasticard and cut it up into small rectangle shaped peices, i then used a hot glue gun to secure it to the bed with the rectangular peices on the inside, painted them matt black and it worked well and held it all in place quite solid, but when i wanted to remove it, it left no damage to the bed base i use the hot glue gun for alot of my scale builds for that reason, it sets solid but does not damage the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Great tip there, thanks for that watchman, I have a hot glue gun so that's handy! Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) My led kit that I ordered from Hobbyking came during the week. So here it is; Contents; The bad news is that the bruiser uses 3mm brake lights and rear lights, so ideally it should have two less 5mm led pairs and 2 more 3mm led's. I spoke to Hobbyking and unfortunately they cannot supply 3mm leds seperately or as spares. I've since seen the same kit unbranded on ebay for less than a tenner posted from HK! I don't know how reliable this will be yet. I was pipped on an ebay auction for a Tamiya TLU01 and 02 setup for Edited January 24, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 After some messing about with drinking straws!! This is a first draft but the plan is to run all the wiring in conduits, the conduits will then be secured to the body shell with those adhesive clips with the bending metal tabs (they come with the HK kit). I don't know if one can get like 8mm-10mm ID styrene hollow rods (The straws below are about 4mm diameter internally). That would probably be ideal and could be glued to the shell pre paint maybe?! Please excuse the poor quality pics but the whole thing is a work in progress! Including smaller wheels on one side and the control unit was causing the body to sit lopsided too. I don't have the 3mm led's for the rear yet hence the brake lights are taped on fo now. Indicators and brake lights showing below. Anyone have any sunglasses! These are the reverse lights...might need to put some filters on these, although clusters yet to fit! Front lights; and in neutral they are on dim...same as the rears... There is a whole load of setting up to do yet, but so far I have the indicators coming on if I arm a switch on the remote and turn. I can also activate it from the left stick left/right so I can indicate while travelling in a straight line! With regards to the main lights, I still have configuring to do, I'd like them to be switcheable, now that I know how to set up programmable channel mixing on the radio it's pretty cool what options this opens up!! Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 I've had a productive afternoon . All pretty much set up now. I have to say that Hobby King LED set is a nice piece of kit. That combined with the Futaba 7ch means I now have a pretty funky set up. I have ended up running the LED off seperate channels to the ESC and steering servo channels. So I'm effectively not using the servo splitter Y cables. I'm using up two other channels on the receiver. This means that rather than having the indicators coming on every time you turn (which is a little annoying) I can now have this function switched as to whether it comes on with steering or not. Because I'm running it on channel 4, mixed with the steering channel, I can also control the indicators on the throttle stick if I want to without turning. Of course my transmission is on a switch hence the sticks are free to use for this. I've done something similar with the main lights. The front sidelights/tail lights are permanently lit dimly (as soon as receiver is powered which is a useful visual cofirmation), however I can switch all the other lights permanently off or have the high beam coming on with a little throttle or with a lot depending on another position switch, I can also flash the headlights with an intermittent switch or turn high beam on permanently using the right stick forward function on the ratchet. Again I'm using channel mixing and mirroring and exponentials and all sorts, so channel 2 is seeing the same as channel 3 (esc) but switcheable and yet once again you can also control front/rear lights with the right stick as well as sensitivity of high low beam as such. That's another good few hours spent and although this was merely a first pass, I pretty much know exactly where I'm going with this now. I think I'll be running the wires out with the battery wires so I may end up having to take the entire electronics box off again!!! This will bring them out right by the control unit on the body which is positioned behind the drivers seat. In other news, I've succumbed to buying a driver, from timetunnel models 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Heads up on the imported interior, received a grey card today...total cost (includes customs) is around 100 quid! Eek! It had better be bloody awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Wow!! I am really looking forward to pics now That said the ones I was looking at on ebay were Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 They're the parts I ordered....bloody hmrc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Did you pay to have them delivered via a faster means or insured? I usually go with the standard postal service, and on items of that size I'm suprised you had any bother. I also had an HMRC payment to make this morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Stock from eBay delivery. I assume the seller put the full value on, silly chap. I'll pay online and arrange delivery, only going into a box of many parts purchased for future use, for now, have neither the room or time to devote to it yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) No further update on the truck yet, I hope to start practicing spraying at the weekend, pretty much all geared up now, but not the Bruiser shell just yet until I'm comfortable with airbrushing. I'm planning to paint a Mad Bull shell first, in the same blue I was going to use on the Bruiser, just to make sure it looks ok. Anyway, earlier in this thread, Noj put up some pics of display cabinets, I showed them to my wife and a couple of weeks later, she was in the kids music school and sent me some pics of their cabinet which they were selling for Edited February 4, 2015 by NITO 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 +1 on the display cabinet thing,have put it on my wish list and yes need more info/pics on current build please.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I would love a proper display cabinet but unfortunately with small people about it raises some safety issues.... Tired of dusting mine on the shelves though..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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